Mike
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Everything posted by Mike
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yip, all fit.
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I'm also getting sick of the same old topics being covered again and again. to sum it up: do it right or do it again. we aren't saying this for the sake of it, But for our own safety and yours. Jono- too bad safe isn't cool.
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yip, gavin hooked me up no worrries. cheers Mike
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yes. either live with the increased wear or modify your subframe to adjust it.
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unless you modify the suspension to dial out the excess camber...
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I'm running Megasquirt, wanting to go with proper ignition control. I could use VR sensor in dizzy but runs off cam so isn't that accurate. I just saw that 60-2 wheel on the M30 and wondered if it would bolt up easily, could save me a lot of hassle. Otherwise I'll probably go with an EDIS 36-1 wheel, pretty sure others have made those fit. As for cooling, Its only the standard viscous fan. I was more after a larger radiator, as its mainly highway running after a long period of time, not a low speed issue. A larger electric fan is definately on the shopping list though. I'm not too sure how the M20 stuff would work with the M10, hence moving onto M30 compatability.
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I'm looking to put a crank position sensor onto my M10. Looking at glenns conversion thread I see the M30 has a toothed wheel and sensor that would be suitable. Given that the two motors are quite similar does anyone know if the M30 wheel can easily be made to fit the M10? Also, I need to upgrade the radiator as I'm overheating. The M10 doesn't run an expansion tank like the M20 so I'm not exactly sure how bolting an M20 radiator in would work. Again, as the M30 is similar I'm guessing I could swap over enough parts to sort out and upgraded cooling system? any body clued up on both of these motors to know what parts can be swapped? Mike
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MAYBE on the cert, as stated earlier it would be extremely close. I'd say that with the smaller 45mm struts they would fit without, but cant say for sure.
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Ahh, that makes more sense. Yip, may need 3mm spacer just to clear the struts.
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Did he say they'll need spacers up front? Can't be right, 16x8 ET20 is about right, so if anything they'll sit out too far. Maybe spacers in the rear? Really knows his sh*t so I'm thinking he just made a typo or something? f**king rad wheels though.
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of course it will be bad, you wont be using all of that 62L for that 450km. Fill up, do your driving. Then fill up and use that amount for your calcs.
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and again...
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I figured it was that time of the week for a new thread about this sh*t. cheers for the entertainment guys
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its not too bad, i had to make an adapter plate for the new TPS (4 holes in some alloy plate) and replace the AFM with a pipe that had a bung for an air temp sensor. other than that everything is reused. i dont have a trigger wheel on the front but a motronic car will be able to use the existing wheel and sensor
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As the title says- whats out there?
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^ it would probably be run on quite a low boost so you could get away with a rising rate fuel pressure reg and bigger injectors, not ideal but would still do the job. combine that with a chip from TCD or Ant designed for boost (I'm assuming they can do SC chips too) and that should be fine for 7psi or so.
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A reasonable amount, though not as bad as turbo. mainly mounts, pulleys and some plumbing off the top of my head. If your seriously considering doing this it seems as though you'll need to do a whole lot more research. Buy a book or start reading lots of websites. One of those things, if you gotta ask it probably isnt for you.
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On what motor? SC12 from the 4agze will probably be too small for any 6cyl. Id atleast try and get a SC14 from the 1GGZE, I believe the came in crowns, or something like that.
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oops.
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I was choosing between a laptop and a desktop last year and ended up going with the laptop. Definately made the right decision, you don't realise how good the portability is until you;ve had one.
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spacers can't help if you get to low an offset, not to mention that they need a cert which is an extra $300 I'd rather know I was buying the right wheels for the right car
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Generally you cant say there is a standard offset for a car- its dependent on rim width. (The wider you go the more critical it is) This is certainly the case with the e30's and I'm assuming that e36s or any other car should be any different. Basically if you going to give advice about offsets also give the rim width that offset is suited for. In extreme cases you'll also need to give tyres sizes, this also has an effect on what offset you can get away with. I'd just hate to see someone buy some wheels and then find that they didn't fit properly.
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hmmm, time for Mcoupe arms and 5 lug? chuck some filthy wide Type1's on there. Here what the kit involves: (Notice the larger washers for the extra camber adjustment, they do not have the same "key" for the washers but still seem to turn ok) Getting that subframe out is a PITA so I'd do it once and do it right with the camber, toe, and whatever else needs doing.
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got to bmw2002.com to find the things. but both the camber and toe kit. They should be different. The camber sits inboard and has more adjustment. Riley, I wouldn't use the eccentric bushes as well. As well as increasing the chance of slipping they probably wont even fit. Lastly, people shouldn't be so worried about excess camber. Its incorrect toe that really causes excess wear. (excessive camber certainly doesn't help things though.)