Mike

very nice, 1280x800 widescreen would be sweet

^ agreed CV's will give you grief before any of those boxes

that will be fine, or any other brand such as shell, mobil, or penzzoil edit: I wouldn't be in a huge rush to change it, I can't see the 25w60 doing any immediate damage

Dexter is all right, keep syou hooked enough to watch the next one. 2nd season is better than the first I think.

I'm not 100% on this but I wouldn't be using it as you'll definately want the oil cooler on a boosted 325i, they're known to cook at the best of times, let alone when they're making 250rwhp. And I wouldn't run it inline with the turbo as I'm assuming the pressure/flow demands will be completely different, ie the amount of oil needed by the turbo would be nothing compared to whats flowing through the cooler.

I wouldn't be using it either unless you had done up around 300000km or you're smoking or loosing oil

unless your using oil i'd just run a mineral 20w50, I don't see the need for anything flash on those old motors.

i'd also check the diff head bolts, they can work loose especially if its been out recently

rattle gun

$1000 for a waste pipe? dam, surely that must include a whole new exhaust? A waste pipe would be around $60 materials (flange and doughnut), and I'm sure I built mine in an afternoon lying on my back with only basic tools. Proper shop with hoist etc should be able to knock one out in a few hours no sweat.

Locked - topic going nowhere

No, you don't have to hit the rev limiter to break them, though it is normally how they snap. Depending on what rocker it is you may be able to do it with the head on, remove whatever is in the way and pull the rocker shaft forward as far as you can and see if the rocker could be slipped off. Or get real bodgy and weld the thing back up again, I've seen that done. It does sound a bit dodgy that it snapped pretty quickly after a tappet adjustment. You could try hit up jeff gray about it but would be very hard to prove anything.

depends what width wheel you want to run

Your not confusing control arms with trailing arms are you? ie front or rear axle? I ask becuase its quite common for the rear tabs on the arms to bend, and I haven't seen it happen on the front. If it is the rear the usual fix is to weld some extra tabs to reinforce the factory mounts. there are kits but it easy enough to make your own.

everything else running fine? my first thought would be the tach (gauge) itself is on the way out, did it start all of a sudden or slowly been getting worse?

True, but the air temp is still increased as a result of being compressed

Pretty sure you're thinking of another Wayne King, the one I was talking about was from my eng firm over summer. don't know the chch one.

That 270hp would be a big ask of an M20, if you were going to do all that work why not do it to a more modern motor? most of the modern motors are also an alloy block how big of a problem are the M54 electrics? I know its easy enough to run M52's in e30's with OBD1 conversions, is it the same deal with M54's? or just mod an M52 to M54 power levels? (probably same cost overall?)

IMO any BMW engine in that power range is going to be pretty expensive, and/or also quite heavy for an e21. I think the best bet might be an M52B28, easy enought to get over 200hp out of them and not too expensive. 200hp would still haul in an e21. If it were me I'd sacrifice the power and go for a higher revving 4 cyl like an M42, then think about forced induction if you were really lacking speed.

4th year civil eng student, work part time in retail and holidays for a consulting firm. due to finish end of this year and trying to decide where i should go and what I should do.

yip, i'd be picking them up if had the spare cash, $600 for perfect fit e30 wheels is worth it IMO

what was he like? normal-ish or an angry grumpy f**k like most of his comedy?

I dont normally do this but how come no one has brought the 16x7.5 hartge wheels on TM? I would have thought $600 was a steal for good condition 16" bolt on wheel for an E30? I waited until auction ended if someone was going to bid on them, they've come up as an offer for $600. If they get relisted I'll post the new link.

Huh? the top nut shouldn't have been touched. doesn't matter now as you've got them out but for next time you hit the housing, not the nut or bolt. the nut is only on to protect the thread if you miss. or do you just have shocking aim with a hammer? I had to move my rack to get my manifold on and I'm pretty sure I got a spanner or socket on there easily enough.

M50's are chain driven