Mike

^ very old pic - time for a new photoshoot but thats 60/40 as antony said the guards are lower so a 60/40 looks more even. its also much more practical. less of every downside to lowering - policemen, both sleeping and otherwise, less tyre wear, more travel etc

60mm is really low in the back, I ran than and didn't like it so went to a 40mm drop in the rear. I'd be surprised if the rears didn't need shortening at 60mm either, they'd be pretty borderline from memory. (few years back now)

I didn't need to shorten my shocks when I put in 60mm springs in the front and 40mm in the rear. Both were captive. Thats only speaking from the legal side of things, there are much better alternatives out there for optium handling, my setup was still much more fun than stock though that was about 4 years ago and the front shocks (stock) are starting to feel their age now, so I'm changing them out. I could actually sell you my boge (OEM) sports shocks though, held 40mm rear springs captive. Nothing wrong with them just brought a whole new set.

haha, some of us knew what you were getting at. good on the mods, hopefully we'll get alot of the old crowd back

man up and post a price

I removed the whole assembley as one- subframe, trailing arms, diff, and halfshafts. getting the old subframe bushings out is a pita without a press, hope you've got one. T/A bushes aren't as bad. edit - shoulda said without

+1, it not some lame april fools things is it to rark the "oldies" up?

I have one for sale from an M30 3.5L that should plug straight into the ecu in your car. check the for sale section

I have an AFM from an M30 that I've adapted to work with an L-Jet ECU. Anyone interested in it? It will need the spring tension set for your application but should be good to go otherwise. Also, chances are you might have to make up a bracket for it but if you doing it in conjuction with intake upgrade should be easy enough to mount. $40 o.b.o im in chch now but will be in welly for 3 weeks from saturday.

chances are its the same Stuart Appleby who's an aussie golf pro. Not what I'd do if I had that sort of cash but will be pretty badass when its done

warped brake rotors? sounds like you've covered all the usual suspects. Is it at any speed or over a certain speed range?

yip, whack the subframe where the ball joint runs through. make sure when you press the new ball joints in that they are aligned correctly.

depends on the motor, e30's ran anything from a 2.79 to a 4.10. 325i's ran either 3.64 or 3.73 if thats anything to go off. Generally higher powered cars run taller diffs

pretty sure the 16x8 et20 will clear the 51mm struts. that was the size that rota made an e30 group buy.

theres also konig remembers available in the states that are 16x7 RS reps

you have to have seen this car to appreciate it. it is absolultely immaculate. photos don't do it justice

unless its using oil or smoking I'd run a 15w/40. can't you just open the bonnet and check what sort of filter it is?

the shortened e30 shocks I've dealt with were all captive but only with the top nut done up, ie no compressors needed. If you aren't sure if this is the case then use spring compressors. Front shocks are around $150 each, rears should be around half that. will make a huge difference if you do all of them.

The results from the wheel alignment? Its pretty standard to get one after pulling half your suspension out, let alone changing the ride hieght by such a huge amount.

not exactly. I'd put it down to rubber and shocks that are probably 20 years old. Change out all the bushings with urethane, go for a nice spring and shock combo. then worry about braces and sway bar upgades.

70mm is a huge drop for an e30 in the rear, can you post up the alignment specs? just wondering why you went more at the back than the front, most people do the opposite if anything.

as others have said check out exactly what needs doing with regards to play in the steering before buying anything. Spring compressors are needed for stock springs, as for rattle gun this depends on the top of the shock shaft, some have an extra 'step' where you can use a spanner to keep the shaft from turning. Other things that are needed are a vice (or some way to hold the thing still) and some plumbers pipe grips to undo the top collar. Everything else is just basic tools. Get a mate who's done it before if you can.

keep in mind the aim is to create torque, not necessarily boost. Lowering the CR too much will mean the engine will only make power on boost. not such a good thing for a daily driver

cool, I'll keep that in mind. Yeah I seen a few way of doing it, I just prefer to use OEM solutions if possible.

great, guess I'm an oldie then. the onslaught wasn't aimed at you, no need to apologise. but please do us a favour and listen to what we saying.