M3_Power

A few years back I created this thread on how to do a Native install of DIS on an IBM T30 (here: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1513162-A-Definitive-Guide-to-GT1-IBM-T30-Native-Install-(also-relevant-for-VMWare) This required you to have a genuine diagnostic head (yellow head, OPS or OPPS) or if you could be bothered with the diagnostic head emulated on another computer connected via a LAN cable. Let me first say that THERE IS TECHNICALLY ABSOLUTELY NO REAL REASON TO DO THIS ... it's more a fun exercise to do or if you happen to break your genuine diagnostic head and wanted to keep the native install and use it (or you don't want to spend over $500 to buy a China cloned diagnostic head) Some also consider the native install to be more stable than running the DIS in VMware ect ect (let's not argue over this) ... anyways, enough excuses. It is actually quite easy to do and follows the exact same concept as the vmware install. Given no one has actually written about how it works I thought I'd do a how to. What you need: 1. IBM T30 with DIS installed natively on the hard drive NOT VIA VMWARE version. 2. Another laptop (preferably a much faster duo core machine or better with LAN port) 3. Diagnostic head emulator software v1.2 Connect as pictured below: LAN port to LAN Port Turn on your laptops. The laptop with the emulated diagnostic head needs to have INPA/EDIABAS installed and the COM port correctly set and OBD.ini file correctly set, ifhsrv32 turned on. Change the network setting to below (just like vmnet1 if it was vmware version): check it is connected correctly: Open the diagnostic emulator and start it and look in connection in DIS and you should see it show up as below just as if you have a real diagnostic head connected .. Start diagnostics as you normally would: Everything works as intended - automatic detection even with D-CAN correctly set: Now please no stupid comments ... just wanted to show that this actually does work and works quite well. As I said earlier, with easydis installs ect there's really no real reason to do this ... but quite nice to use if you prefer the speed of a native install or have a natively installed T30 sitting around. Peace out : ) p.s. this will also work with a natively installed SSS progman T30.

I've never really undrestood this mod to be honest .... If you look at the science behind it you've just made a free flow system with a well calculated Helmholtz chamber and pipe length/size obsolete and probably induced unwanted exhaust pulses back into the system and ruined any kadenacy effect that was built into it. Personally I prefer this style of painted plenum ...

Congrats on the new Car Dylan!! Love it!!

Couldn't wait to see it when I saw the trailer .. so I went and saw it on the day it was release : P Loved it ... recommend it ... would go and watch it again.

Is there anything that you can't do Paul??? Sawing and all!!! Good lord!! I have a spare muffler sitting around when are you next up in Auckland : P I bet that thing's more than loud now!! Like Tristan ... did you fab the exhaust tips yourself?? If you did, you should start knocking them off and selling them on ebay!! The OEM tips are like $100 each and they dent almost too easily.

One of these ... but it was Purple .... Honda Accord Lxi

Both of my brothers had one for about 3 or 4 years. I drove both at various times and loved it. Handling, fit and finish ect closer to an E90 than an E46 in every way. Economy wise depends on your right foot, but can be used quite economically if wanted. Little more economical than the E46 330i (which one brother owned before he traded it for the 130i). Will fit baby seat and prams ect without issue (one brother had his first born during his period of ownership and never had an issue with regards to room - although he did say you had to bend over quite a bit to put kid in the backseat). Neither had any problems with the car ever since new. So overall, very reliable. One had the 18inch rim and the other 17s - personally I preferred the ride on the 17s over the 18s. Quite a reliable car and very fast on the track - Mike Eady's race 130i could easily lap 1.08s all day around the old Pukekohe track.

I'd have sold the car and traded it for another one of lower km and better condition - I bet it would have cost less too. I find "expensive" detailing utterly pointless on an ordinary car .... now if that was a McLaren F1 or a Ferrari GTO then I can understand, but seriously a 1M ... I guess when money no object it makes sense and does wonders for the economy : )

Now drained .... so no longer functions as an auto-dim mirror. Cleaned and put back together ready to use. Will do an exchange deal at $15.

Okay - so I drained the spare mirror I had today that had the bubble - easily done and came up like new. In my opinion, if you don't need the auto-dim function this is a good cheap free mod. Just be careful when you peel the glass apart as it can break. Remove the stainless band around both side first - it's like a zipper and just pulls off with a bit of force and goes back on again later on. Use a sharp craft blade and slice into the joint (don't use a single point as you'll break the glass) - wear gloves and be in a well vented area or have a mask on as the fumes are pretty strong and the liquid quite toxic I think. Wipe the liquid away and wash the two piece and clean with glass cleaner. Reassembly requires a bit of epoxy put on the two sharp ends of the glass to hold the two together and reinstalling the stainless band on either side of the glass - this is necessary as it aligns the two piece relative to each other in terms of how they fit back together. Pictures:

Not that I'll ever get invited to drive one ... but I sense the market being flooded with E9X M3s soon ... LOL

I saw this company in the classic car magazine once ... no idea if they are any good or have the fabric you are after - but apparently comes highly rated from some quarters I've heard. Unfortunately not Auckland based. http://lemansautofabrics.co.nz/headlining-bmw.html

Congrats on the new purchase ... can't say I've ever missed mine since selling. Enjoy it, afterall it is the last of the NA monsters that will ever come from the M division. Oh and an unashamed self plug : P http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....amp;hl=M3_Power

I just did this myself on a spare rear view mirror, it's not hard to do. I bought a replacement mirror from Radar Mirror (it was $134 shipped) and arrived in a week. Disassemble the mirror, desolder the two wires and resolder the new mirror in place - piece of cake. Much better way than sending your mirror away in my opinion as that's pretty much what they do any way. Below is THE BEST write up I've ever seen for the rear view mirror and explains why they fail. If you need more help let me know, but seriously I don't think there's a need to ship them away to have it repaired. And yes, take it off now or cover it up, you never know when it's going to start leaking and trust me you don't want to be spending over $300 buying a new gear surround trim. http://www.totalmcars.com/thread/2072/auto...;scrollTo=32714 p.s. The mirror in my car now is a replacement from Sybesmas - I did it as a preventative as it wasn't actually leaking, but they all will eventually (read the reasoning in the link above) - It is my understanding now that they are quite short on replacement mirrors - as they used to actually send you one that's already repaired, take a bond and wait for you to send in your own mirror housing as an exchange - but apparently people weren't sending in their own and were putting them up on ebay. So I believe they now get you to send in your own mirror.

I purchased a bunch of used ones to see how they were put together and whether the aluminium part could be replicated and whether the corrosion could be repaired or polished back to original. Experimented with cutting out the corrosion and touching up with a layer of clear coat as the best solution in the end. These are the best used sets I had out of the lot - so I tidied them up as much as I can and polished them up. Not perfect, but reasonable. In used condition, so don't expect them to be new. You don't want to know what these are retail and if you've tried to import them from overseas trust me that they WILL be damaged when they arrive < - Ask me how I know!!! $200 take them away : ) NB. No damaged mounting clips all perfect : )

I pulled this out of a faulty spare oval mirror that I fixed with a new glass - it has the usual bubbling in the middle - hasn't leaked, so technically you can just drain the liquid inside and run it as a non-dimming mirror given there's no staining by the looks. (Bubble only in the middle - the green you see on the right bottom is reflection of my phone) This is how you drain the liquid inside http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showt...16#post16947716 I haven't drained this, but it is not hard to do and a cheap alternative to buying a new glass (or sending it away to have it repaired) $40 take it away.

And I'll add this to help

Not sure what I was thinking there when I typed that ... ooops : P

Could be .... wish there was a better photo of the machine he's using, can't quite make out what it is - but does seem like the one I've seen before that does runflats really well. Will check with my friend if this is the guy!

Personally I think there's another reason .... $$ Take said used pump from customer, ship back for remanufacturer (swap out said temp sensor), clean pump and rebuild whatever else needs rebuilding (probably nothing, change a few seals, brushes and coils), resell as official remanufactured pump for $3695+GST. It really irritates me sometimes when BMW don't sell repair components to a failed part resulting in customers shelling out huge amount of coin to get their cars back on the road - I guess there's a reason they are so profitable afterall!! LOL ... It's describing the same thing ... the relay is the on off switch ...

+ 1 Thumbs up Ray! Given that I've had quite a few friends that got into the auto trade only to come out the other end hating it and losing all interests in cars - Ray's a real rarity these days ... a true enthusiast that owns a workshop and also supplies parts and still loves his job, trade and the products.

I am reasonably certain both variants are the same wiring wise. Simon states that the dealership didn't cut any wires - they just unplugged it from the Temp sensor so it defaulted to limp mode temp. Understandable that official dealship service centres have to follow official repair protocols and rightly so - if they deviate from it and stuff things up they end up being liable for it and without the back up from Germany, so I can appreciate that sometimes their hands are tied in terms of trying things (even if tried and proven). I do hope you get to the bottom of this soon Simon - I honestly feel for you and the situation you are finding yourself in with this car. Most people would have thrown in the towel and cut their loss so to speak. But look at it this way - once sorted, you'd have been through all the major issues that you encounter with the E46 M3 and resolved it - it'll be a car that's going to be like new and trouble free for a very long time!! (fingers crossed!) Also appreciate all the compliments guys - undeserved really, as I am mostly regurgitating what's already out there (I just happen to have come across enough of these issues from other owners and read enough to know what to look for and find it immediately for the OP - lucky to have been an owner since 2001 also helps). This is a great community deserving of sharing of knowledge and experience - I am more than happy to help and contribute whenever I can! I chuckled a little seeing this one .... I wonder what might trigger it

Wiring diagram ... (ignore the green arrow) Photo stolen from internet ... They can also get to it from the top of the fuse box: http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=414499

Technically speaking BMW techs should know how to fix the SMG system ... a lot of it is in the training manual

As stated on the phone and TXT - contrary to what BMW tells you, this sensor IS replaceable. Item number 7 below: BMW Part number (blue plug on the back of the sensor) 13-62-1-709-966 It's a Bosch sensor - Bosch part number 0 280 130 026 Or apparently the VDO one works also: Part number 805/9/1 Full sensor spec:(-40-+130C, NTC 2.5K@20C log curve +-5%, 1.0amp max M12x1.5mm, 19mm wrench, 25 NM installation torque) The system throws a fit and shuts down the pump from recharge when temperature reaches above 80 degrees C - normal operating hydraulic fluid temp should be between 30 - 60degrees C. (It faults often because the bloody pump unit is right next to the engine block (clever design BMW !!!)) The SMG pump operates at 80Bar and starts recharging when it drops below 45bar. The accumulator has a volume of 150ccm (two cambers in the accumulator, separated by a piston, one side filled with nitrogen at 39bar). There's a pressure relief valve in the system that opens at 100bar. When reading the hydraulic pressure the voltage is always between 0.5v to 4.58v (0bar to 100bar respectively). The resistor modification splices into a wire on the 18 pin plug tricking the system into thinking it's always within range. I believe the resister is suppose to be between 500ohm to 1K which will put it within range (most have reported the 680ohm works well even in very hot climate). As you are introducing air to the hydraulic system, you WILL have to bleed the SMG system afterwards (I hope JG knows how to do this!!! Given how they've been diagnosing your car I am not so sure ... lol) ^ Jokes aside: The sensor is the right hand side one with the baby blue plug (below the dark blue dot) Said sensor: Resistor mod: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...;utm_medium=CSE Good luck Simon!! Hope this sorts it for you and then you can finally start to enjoy the car!!