M3_Power

Must be genuine 18 x 9 ET 26 M double spoke found on the E46 M3. Must not be bent or buckled - slight curbing is fine and paint condition not important. No tyres - bare rims only please. PM if you have or know of any.

Nothing ... it's for my Recaro race seat and rail set up.

After a good condition e46 driver side seat belt pretensioner (or commonly known as the receiver, receptacle, buckle). Only after the driver side and not the belt either.<BR><BR>Thanks.

Repost actually. More info in the link below http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....c=28541&hl= It'll never go into production - not then and not now. Not to mention it's not a current production series.

Recaro seat electric $1 start for sale - TradeMe.co.nz - New Zealand details in trademe link. Reserve is $30 for the NZH peeps. (there is another identical seat to the one I have on trademe also - so you can buy mine and the other and have a pair see my trademe listing for details). More photos available if requested (I'll post them up here if anyone wants any). MUST GO ... I really don't have the room to store this - only bought it for the rail setup that was on it. Want it gone ... (Someone buy it and use it as an office chair or something ... )

So I came across this on another forum, thought it was rather interesting. It's from Sport Auto in Germany, done in Daimler Chrysler's non rolling wind tunnel replicated at 200km/h road speed (no idea what wind speed that is). Mad props to the Gumpert Apollo and the 997.2 GT3RS E92 CSL (not bad ... zero lift front end and almost nothing in the rear) well engineered Porsches Lotus And for those of you that don't like Hondas ... gotta give it to them for actually knowing what they are doing (especially for a car that really has bugger all add-on aero) NSX-R What a real racer produces: Love how you can actually see the diffuser working

and all I got out of that video was "M3 drivers have no friends" ....

Why not get the seller to scan the article and email it to you? Seeing that he has images of it on the ebay auction? If you told him you were a genuinely interested purchaser I am sure he'd be more than happy to oblige?

Just order it online ... it gets here pretty quick. I've ordered from Unity Media before - works out to be ever so slightly cheaper than buying locally. http://online.unity-media.com/index.php?cPath=1_34_37

Here's a fellow Aussie's post on m3forums and the process:

Here's who you email: (I can email you the form) http://www.sybesmas.com/home.html [email protected] (sometimes it'll be Bekki that replies - she's Stacy's assistant) Their reply email will be: Thank you for contacting us. The cost for a mirror exchange is $75.00 plus shipping/handling to the United States. If you reside outside of the USA, please contact us for pricing. You will be required to return the defective mirror and a pre-paid label will be provided for you to do so. Please note that we do not support mirrors with the home link option. The attached form will need to be completed and pictures of the following will need to be included for us to determine what mirror it is that you are in need of. -Front and rear views of the mirror -The plug (number of pins and wire colors are helpful) -The mounting bracket located on the windshield You may send payment via email when your order is submitted otherwise, we will contact you when you mirror is ready to ship for that information. Do not open the black casing surrounding the mirror as this will cause damage and the unit will no longer be valuable as an exchange and you will be charged the full purchase price of $200.00. Thank you, Sybesma’s Electronics 616-392-6911 You'll need to take the mirror off the windscreen - if you don't know how email me ([email protected]) - you'll need to email them photos of the wiring and the plug (as there's quite a few version of this mirror (5 from memory) - I have a feeling you might not need to anymore and can simply give them the part number on it). The whole process takes about 2 weeks to complete (they'll take a bond on your credit card and send you the new mirror with a return number - the bond is refunded once you post back your old mirror to them). The remanufactured mirror is just like new and works brilliantly. Here's the form to download and fill out: http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/attachment....mp;d=1269282820 Here's how you remove the mirror: http://www.bigpatsfans.com/mirror/pics/TIS_51_%2016_060.pdf Edit: Just found my old correspondence with Sybesmas - the total cost of the remanufacture mirror with shipping was US$175 (one that will never leak) - and they only ship via fedex or UPS, not USPS unfortunately. They are a very efficient and easy company to deal with by the way. A little background on the mirror issue: The mirror is manufactured by Magna Donelly and the issue first appeared in E39 5 series. Magna Donelly originally started replacing these for cars outside of the BMW warranty for a shipping charge and then eventually the whole warranty remanufacturing process was taken over by Sybesmas in the USA. It'll melt interior trim and damage quite a few things (including seats when it leaks/explodes) - so cover it up when you start to see yellow or lines or streaks in the mirror face. When it starts leaking: What it can do:

Put a big plastic bag over the mirror NOW!!! Or lay a big towel down around and near the mirror. It'll start to leak mercury or some crap shortly and destroy your interior (I am serious). This is a known issue with the auto dim mirror (especially if park under the sun a lot) There's an outfit in the USA that does a re-engineered mirror for a fee. I had mine replaced before anything happened. Email me and I'll email you the details as to how to get a remanufactured mirror (you want this one and not a BMW replacement one as they still use the old chromatic technology and they will ALL leak eventually) The remanufactured ones uses an all electric system, so nothing leaks out of the mirrors - works exactly the same if not BETTER than the original BMW ones. p.s. a brand new BMW rear view mirror is like $8XX + GST. The remanufactured ones are US$75 + shipping. And you send the old leaking one back.

I concur!! Josh is there any cool cars in NZ where you don't actually know the owner? Chance of a ride perhaps? hehe ....

Would you if money not a consideration? Seems pretty well made from the photos ... http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-288290143.htm

What I really meant was it wasn't a pure 'bog' repair (as some shops would propose). You are correct though, the fairing material used is technically still bog - but there's actually not that much on there, most of it was sanded off - we didn't have a photo of it just prior to priming. I thought about that, but given that the damage was more cosmetic than structural, it really didn't warrant a specialist repair (the wetlay 2 part expoxy is very strong for a cosmetic repair). If it was impact bar structure that was split or damaged, then I would have walked away from this bumper. Carbon repairs aren't cheap and depending on the type of damage, sometimes it is better off to just throw the piece away or use it purely for racing where keeping the frontal impact isn't as much of an issue.

So an opportunity presented itself about a month ago where I managed to score myself a spare genuine M3 CSL front bumper - the only catch however, it was slightly damaged. The bumper was shipped from England. It was worth repairing and keeping as a spare given that a brand new one is near $10,000 from BMW (I kid you not). The bumper is autoclave pre-preg dry carbon fiber and has a frontal crash impact bar built into its structure that is crash tested - very strong and very light. With no access to an autoclave, I decided that the next best thing was to take the bumper to somebody that was capable of doing a wetlay carbon fiber repair at a reasonable price - cue, Grant from GT Refinishers. The goal - no bog, proper carbon fiber repair as close to original finish as possible without breaking the bank The bumper as I received it: Grant peels the paint back to survey the damage: A little more serious than we thought, but Grant got on with it: Wet lay using the same carbon fiber tweel as the original with 2 part epoxy ... Sanding it down: Like it was never damaged almost: fairing: Priming: Painted: The finish product: Next to the original

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/S...n-287645283.htm

Having driven Type Rs around Pukekohe quite extensively I have to say that I can sort of understand what the mis-matched tyres were about, albeit very mis-informed. There's plenty of Honda guys that do the front semi slicks and rear road tyre combos - it's more prevalent than you'd think actually (it's a band-aid solution to understeer and if you don't actually know how to set up a car properly I might add). Basically I believe Wilson (the driver's name) was intending on having the maximum grip in that front inner for Castrol (understeer heaven for Hondas) and perhaps have the rest balanced up with the semis (the inner front is the one that takes the most beating around Puke for a Honda, and I suppose every other car). From the gif it didn't look like he got onto the grass, but it's hard to tell from that angle. Either way guys, please have a little respect with the comments especially for the owner of the car - it's never nice to smash up a pride and joy at the track, let along having photos of it posted all over the internet and have people judging you when they know nothing about what actually happened. Crashing at Pukekohe isn't a hard thing to do and the result is never pleasant - it can go wrong at a split second and often physics takes over and that's the end of that. He is a very lucky guy to have no injuries from that crash - I took a look at the car after it was towed and the passenger cell compartment definitely held up very well - that driver side B Pillar saved his life - had that collapsed, he'd be crushed no doubt.

A famous 1.5 litre 4 cylinder BMW engine .... that only made 1300hp

There's apparently a gag order over on NZhondas about this crash. I was car no.4 over the hill just after this accident - plenty of time to slow down and stop to go past the wreckage. He didn't have a road tyre on the car. The car had 2 brand new semi slicks (toyos) in the rear that were not scrubbed in at all (still had the yellow paint type print on the tread surface after the crash). A scrubbed in semi slick Dunlop on the left front and a full slick on the right front. Only the driver and his close friends know what happened exactly - all the rest is speculation. He is a regular tracker, so not a novice by any means. Most likely cause however was lift off oversteer - those of you that have driven a Honda at speeds around Pukekohe will know that lift off oversteer in a Honda = scene like the above.

I have said this before ... if you are going lowering springs for looks then by all means do it (but on a motorsport? Really? those things are lower than the M3 from the factory), but if you are doing springs for handling then you won't get it from springs - period. On the rear subframe mount failure. The failure is in the Unibody as Josh has pointed out - the failure points are in the unibody floor where the rear subframe is bolted to it. It is fairly conclusive now that the failure is a torque induced one - hence if you do a lot of burn out, a lot of drifting, do a lot of hard launches (including launch control) then the chances of tearing the floor out of your car is multiplied. It is actually not a common fault for regularly tracked cars Josh (Thorney Motorsports in the UK have said this over and over again - unless of course you make it a mission to drive on the rumble strips all the time - none of their CSL cup cars have had rear subframe issues nor any uprated plates welded on and these cars take a real punishing). There's actually a debate as to whether heavier springs help or exacerbate the problem - the consensus (and this is backed up by quite a few motorsport known folks) is that it does neither unless all the bushes are worn on the rear end (this includes the RTAB, the Rear Shock Top mount, and the rear subframe bushes). The consensus also seems to be that heavier springs (with correlating uprating of dampening and rebound characteristics will actually help against tearing as there's less oscillating torque forces acting upon the actual mount points when the rear end forces are limited to its design - i.e. up and down and not side to side or front to back). Imagine a seesaw and the subframe unibody floor as the fulcrum point of everything else - the more that everything else moves the easier it is for it to fall apart. It appears also that the way BMW designed the rear end of the car is to have the RTAB fail first, followed by the Rear shock towers ... ect ect ... so keeping an eye on those two regularly WILL Help .. as the next ones to go are followed shortly by the rear subframe mount. So uprating any of the first failure bushings simply moves the failure points to other components within the whole rear end system. I personally know which I'd rather have fail before anything else. One thing that is certain and it's that SOLID rear subframe bushings WILL accelerate the failure. Most post 2003 E46 will have had the new update rear subframe unifloor and these are known to be less prone to failures. Coincidental also is the fact that when the subframe failures were starting to be widely reported that BMW updated the RTAB design to a split shell design which are lot better and longer lasting. And if words don't put you off abusing your E46s ... here's what's involved in a new rear unibody floor: Still want to do burnouts and regular drifting in your bimmer?

Any good as in any good as an exhaust or any good for what I am after? If you meant the former, then yes it's a pretty decent system - a copy of the Super Sprint Race exhaust system with cooler looking exhaust tips. It is made by Agency Power, so reasonably well known Chinese knock-off brand, but with quite decent quality. If you meant the latter, I am really after an OEM system with mint condition tips and nothing else. But cheers for pointing it out. Good price on the Agency Power system so far.

Still looking

Good point .... Although I do still wonder which of the knock offs would work better ... the GT1 or the OPS. Autoland .. interesting - might do some reading on these. I would have thought Autologic was the next best thing to genuine dealer machines.