djs325

F*t bastard on one side of the car?

Easiest swap is either the M42B18 (318is) or M30B35 (535i) injectors, same size, same resistance, but higher flow, drop straight in, will need a tune though.

Soft hammers...

Wouldn't bother with Aluminium - and you're also replacing an elastomeric bush with a metallic bush - no room for a bit of tolerance anymore. 75D Poly/Delrin are fine for the rear subframe.

Extracted from my "Basic E30 Street/Track/Race/Ring Upgrades" Notes: Brakes: -The first place you should be spending money, and plenty of it! -Braided lines are a must. Double check the requirements for approval (TUV, MOT, ADR etc). Goodridge has an easy set available, you'll want the E30 316-325 ABS model, this has all 6 lines (2 front 4 rear); SBW0012-6. -Recommend the E32 7 Series Master Cylinder upgrade. 25.4mm bore, stiffer pedal with more 'stomp control'. Also gives you peace of mind that your MC is in good nick. BMW Pn. 34 31 1 156 643, ATE Pn. 02.2125-2802.3, FTE Pn. H25914.0.1, make sure it's for an up to 1988 model. This will require a T-Piece adaptor to be manufactured for the front axle, from the single E32 front port to the 2 E30 front lines. -Decent quality rotors, slotted maybe (not all the way to the edge) but steer clear of cross-drilled. Buy a reputable brand that people say nice things about. -Pad choice depends on the kind of track work being undertaken. Fast-road pads are best if what you do isn't hard on brakes (they aren't used that often or that hard). Would recommend PFC Z-Rated but no longer available. Ferodo DS2500, HAWK DTC, EBC Green or Pagid would be next on the list of brands to seek out. For short circuit work, with more brake work, you might want a more race oriented pad, e.g. PFC01 or 06, Ferodo DS3000, Pagid RS29 etc. -Use good quality fluid, minimum DOT4, preferably DOT5.1; a racing fluid might be overkill and will require more frequent bleeding to ensure premium performance. -Backing plates, ducting and brake ducts are fairly serious, but if going the whole hog you might want them. Check the net. -And in closing, make sure all your calipers are in top shape. You can rebuild them with BMW, ATE or FTE repair kits; or better still, use stainless steel pistons and replace the rubber bushes with solid brake guides from BimmerWorld.

Look at getting a set of solid brake guides from BimmerWorld; these replace the rubber bushes with brass, and require lubrication prior to a track day; but are great for a couple of reasons: -Help pad to wear straight -Reduce caliper mounting flex -Reduce chance of stickage from caliper slides Note that these are only for ATE Calipers, that use the Pin and Rubber Bush method. These are removed with a 7mm Allen Key. These are found on the rear of all E30s with disc brakes, and on the front of most late model E30s (1988 on). The other suggestion I would make is a caliper rebuild; new stainless pistons, new seals. All these parts are available from BimmerWorld.com - a great resource for the E30 enthusiast!

http://www.dbilas-dynamic.de/index.htm Nuff said.

Best of luck at your next WOF inspection. Your "lack of funds" could have you ending up in a tree/fence/other car but whatever...

The fluid provides a thermal transfer connection between the damper casing and the strut housing. This way the heat that is generated by the damper movements (up and down on the shaft) can be transferred to the strut housing and dissipated into the atmosphere. However, when you go to double adjustable dampers (e.g. Koni Sport/Race inserts) you have to drill a hole in the bottom of the strut to access the adjuster, thus prevent the strut housing from being filled with fluid. The fluid is normally ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid), which can also be used as Power Steering Fluid.

Goodridge Braided Brake Line set, TUV approved off eBay, Demon Tweeks or any other reputable online dealer. Part number for E30 6 line kit: SBW0012-6 Search for it on eBay, Google etc.

You can transfer brake caliper mounts, calipers, pads, rotors, but the damper (shock) insert is a different thickness. Not sure if the springs/top mounts are all the same. Would highly recommend that you use the change to 51mm struts as a chance to put 2 brand new front hubs on.

RUN AWAY!!!!! Cheap and nasty, but they do sponsor a race series in Malaysia apparently, which means all the cars have to run Silverstone tyres...

If you can find a stockist of ATE or FTE parts in New Zealand, the ATE or FTE part numbers are available off the interweb ; just make sure you get the model or caliper shape EXACTLy right!

Drilled discs? Run AWAY! EBC Red? Yeah, sort of ok-ish. I will never use EBC in racing again, but for road use the Greenstuff is sort of ok. Use at least a DOT 4 fluid, preferably a DOT 5.1 (Like MOTUL DOT 5.1 or Castrol Super Repsonse). Lines should be in good condition, preferably stainless outer braid (with protective plastic sheath) over a smooth bore PTFE inner. Goodridge have an off the shelf 6 line set for the E30 that you can order from Demon-Tweeks, not sure how this goes with the WOF test though, but they are all done to US DOT or German TUV standards. Also, 25mm master cylinder off pre-1988 E32 750i works a treat! Just need an adapter made up for the front brake lines (E32 is single front output, E30 is twin front output).

Sorry, thought I had an earlier post - www.bimmerworld.com -

Performance Friction Z-Rated from either Performance Friction Brakes Australia, or BimmerWorld: www.performancefrictionbrakes.com.au www.bimmerworld.com

I just ordered a set of Powerflex Rear Subframe Bushes & Diff Bush in race durometer for a mate. US$230 delivered, and they have all the rest of the Powerflex components available: Control Arm Bushes (offset and original), Sway Bar Bushes, Gearbox Mounts, Engine Mounts, Trailing Arm Bushes etc. Great bunch of guys to deal with, and very knowledgeable. I've bought several thousands of dollars of gear off them in the past.

www.bimmerworld.com have complete E36 M3 braking systems to upgrade non-M3 E36 3-Series cars, these are on special and would work wonders when combined with a set of Performance Friction Z-Rated Pads.

There is adjustment available, but basically you use it to correct toe with lowered ride height. You will prefer correct toe over matching camber any day, provided that the cambers are not REALLY out. I got mine to have toe OUT at static ride height, standard is toed in by about 1 degree/3mm each side.

I run DBA Slotted Street Series rotors on my E30 325i Racing Car, combined with Performance Friction Brakes PFC06 Compound pads. I got at least 5 race meetings out of my current set of pads, and 4 meetings out of the DBA rotors - the PFC pad is harder on the disc than those I ran previously, but better performing. The DBA slots don't go all the way to the edge, which reduces the risk of stress cracking on the external rim of the rotor. DBA part numbers: Front DBA679SL or DBA679SR (left or right hand), Rear DBA671SL or DBA671SR

Try a BMC Carbon Dynamic Airbox: www.bmcairfilters.com

Try the Performance Friction Z-Rated Material, yours is an E36 M3 so will be part number 0394.11 - really popular in the USA, extremely low dust, and excellent stopping power for street or track.

I'm using MOTUL RBF660 now, and have noticed a reduction in the amount of bleeding required to keep the braking system performing at its best. Would definitely recommend it.

Hi Guys. Some of you may know that there is an E30 Racing Series in Australia, in Victoria. Like the UK Production BMW Cup, US Spec E30, and NZ BMW E30 Series, we are allowed to upgrade other areas of the brakes (lines, master cylinder, guide bolts), but we are only allowed to use original size brake pads & brake discs (260x22mm front). Those of you who drive, track, or race E30s will know that there is not a lot of choice out there if you want to run original size brake discs. ATE, Brembo, RDA etc make slotted or drilled variants of what are normal brake discs, not really designed for motorsport/high load use. Anyone who as seriously punished a set of brakes will know that most aftermarket designs don't have anywhere near the longevity as proper performance discs. And that leads me to the the focus of this topic. I had a discussion today with the Sales & Marketing Director of Disc Brakes Australia (http://www.dba.com.au). DBA make a number of different variants of brake discs for all sorts of different cars, and make motorsport versions (4000 & 5000 Series) to suit factory applications on specific vehicles. They are the control brake disc supplier to the Yokohama V8 Ute Series in both Australia and New Zealand, and these manage to pull up an 1800kg V8 beast! http://www.dba.com.au/2006/products_4000.asp http://www.dba.com.au/2006/products_5000.asp DBA has recently been expanding into the USA, and now Europe, opening themselves up to more and more vehicle specific fitments. DBA currently has a number of products meeting TUV approval standards. You can read testimonials from all over the world on their website: http://www.dba.com.au/2006/testimonials.asp DBA currently offers a standard or slotted front brake disc for the 1983-1991 E30 318-325. They do not currently make a 4000 (single piece) or 5000 (2-piece) series disc in our application. My contact at DBA advised me that at 2 years ago, at an automobile show in Europe, he received some interest from some owners of Alfa Romeo Montreals. They were seeking performance discs after Brembo had discontinued that line of products. Once enough information had spread, and enough interest was generated amongst Montreal owners for DBA to produce a 4000 series disc to their specifications, and DBA now continues to produce and supply that disc around the world. So this means that if enough worldwide interest can be generated, DBA can produce discs for that interest profitably. So let's all (AUS, NZ, UK & USA) generate that interest for our cars - and never have to worry about front disc supply again. Let's get a proper, motorsport specific brake disc made for our cars - because we all know the E30s are worth it! The DBA minimum production run for a 4000 series 6x6 Slot E30 front disc would be 100 sets i.e. 100 left discs and 100 right discs. You don't need to order them, just display significant interest that the product should be made. To this end, I have setup an email address where you can send an email specifically requesting that DBA produce these discs: [email protected] I will make these emails available to DBA to demonstrate how much demand there is for a product like this. So please, let people around the world know through other forums, club meetings, chat rooms, Facebook/Myspace, however you can, and tell them to get emailling! Cheers guys, and hopefully we can see some discs turn up soon!