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You know Ollie, if I hadn't met you, and understood the interweb sarcasm, I would have thought you were quite weird by now. Still do, but on a sliiightly lesser scale. Bimmersport - My BMW is 10 years older than me but have been reppin' it since b4 you knew!

The 14" weaves ruin the look. You are after something like this> What a strangely familiar car. It is my mission to spread the Mtech1 style around. So others may appreciate the welcoming benefit it gives to the E30 shape. Tech2 has great sides, but the front makes it look like one of those cartoon pictures of cars people draw, and the rear, ohhh no the rear..... Observe: 2 games per car! Disclaimer: All E30s are sweet.

M3 Competition Spec. CSL wheels, brakes and other things. One mean M3

It's not really loading it like you are thinking, load is towing a boat up a hill in 6th with a supercharged V16, you just have to settle all the splines/teeth/CV joints against each other so there is no slamming together of things. The clutch take up is all the same, as smooth as the tires allow, just a little like 3% load to get the teeth pressed together. He probably hasn't done it because drag racers cover, what, like 20 km a year or something? With diffs the size of a beer keg, so not a huge problem. Haha! But whatever method works/feels best then use it by all means. I just notice a massive decrease in wheel hop and better, faster runs through 1st gear when I do it around and about. Not that I do it often, maybe 10 times this year.. In a daily driver E30.

Loading up the gears by dragging the clutch slightly at 3500rpm would put much, much less force through the running gear than say being in 5th gear going up a hill at WOT (worn clutches slipping in higher gears is evidence of this), or changing into second gear fast. The main wear item would be the clutch (which is cheaper than CV's and diffs) Even if you do a smooth fast launch with no 'clutch dump' it is much better to get the teeth in the gearbox touching each other, and the splines in the diff pushed together, and the joints in the CV's mashed together, cause when you let that clutch out (even smoothly) that initial bite it has will accelerate the teeth and splines together and deform them, doing it repeatedly will lead to failure. That is pure fact based on evidence, I see no reason not to load up gears for casual drag days or races at the lights, there are zero downsides and many upsides. And I put technology in apostrophes to imply that drag racing uses technology that is looong gone by

My original example was regarding a BMW E30 with too much power, trying to save gearboxes, diff's and CV joints. In a manual road car it is much less stressful on the drivetrain to load it up, (also spools up turbos if you don't have anti-lag by putting a bit of load on the engine) , especially 4WD cars with all the traction they have (and usually weak gearboxes to go with it) It's common practise on a road car if you want it to last more than a year. Your drag trannies are much, much stronger for a reason. I can do it back to back, I'm no god, letting the clutch out using muscle memory, developed from practise, at a certain amount of revs while droping the handbrake is not exactly 4 year Uni level physics. Drag cars and their 'technology' are something I hope to never, ever be involved with. Would rather melt down 100 dollar bills and drink them. It's cool if you do it, but in my personal opinion I'd rather go to the track and continue around the corner at the end of the straight. *typo

You know, I almost want to do this. But I don't think it would suit!

I mean having the Rev's where you usually have them, but the handbrake fully up and the clutch just sliiiightly grabbing. It also compresses the rear suspension so you get a much, much faster launch because you don't have to wait for the cars rear suspension to compress before it starts moving, also reducing wheelspin. It works

She didn't get touched/hurt. No point, waste of resources. The Note is a great justice.

It can be done, maybe not a direct bolt up. But it can be done.

No the RX7 box bolts straight up (so I hear from vertern Mitsi guys, who also know that the starion gearbox is a shocker ahaha), might need a different shifter rod length depending on where the engine sits. So you'll have 5x114 on the back and 5x120 on the front? Bit weird. Much cheaper options if you wanna just build a skidder. Ooo look here's a Mspec one! http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-229247733.htm

Nice colours on the race car!

Baited and bitten. Well you will need: 9 inch wide rear wheels and expensive tires. Weld in camber correction kit other wise you will never have traction. Uprated 5 series guibo and endless supply of halfshafts. Solid or poly bushings all round. Much, much larger brakes, so most likely a 5 stud conversion. You will blow the starion gearbox, ask how I know, you will need a S4/5 RX7 gearbox or that gearbox mitsi made for ford or whoever to go in some ute they made. Or you could run stock boost and save thousands and thousands of dollars and still have a car with too much power for the chassis.. But hey, big power is pretty cool I reckon, but too many do it wrong, it's sad. Hope you have a non-arts degree/high paying job. You need to do teh brakes and suspension first.

Are you planning on running more than 25psi?

As explainded on MSN to you Luke, and put here for reference: Just load up the gears by holding the handbrake, and letting the clutch slightly out till it lurches a wee bit, for launches. And nice smooth shifts. Once the drivetrain components are loaded up they can take hundreds and hundreds of newton metres. It's the lash and crashing teeth together that kills it really.

I swear I had written it was lighter than Lachssilber, but then changed it to a direct answer to sound more confident. Advanced internet discussion technique there *Edit by mod* BACK ON TOPIC 320GUY AND INCARY!

It's a stock 2.7 rebuild. Cambelt snapped when P.O. had it. Quick easy head swap..

You said it was Gold! I win.

I could imagine an E30 ute would be the most underpowered, driftiest, and ugliest car on the road.

Ha yeah it's not like you have to bust a vein to get it tight enough. Will take note of sealant however.

liek, teh n00b doesnt know that teh gamers planet forums is liek one of teh biggest in NZee! liek ill have 2 bust out my jeremy and fps doug tee shirts lawl!

You'll have no problems with a 325i diffrential and half shafts. With smooth power-on delivery of a turbo you aren't going to be near the limits of the running gear, just don't spend all day dropping the clutch in 2nd like a tool. And you want the gear to handle the TORQUE!!!!!11.1.1, power is a maths calculation.

Male plugs poke out (like a headphone jack) Female plugs take it (oo yeah) (Like where you put the jack into to) I use Redline MTL from BNT. Full synthetic. Win. And I notice leaks when the bottom drain plug is not done up tight enough, just keep tightening each day untill not more leaks appear.

Camjam is awesome. Used it the other day when my girlfriend just about got snatched by some sifty guy (in a 740i sadly), she got the plate. Now we know where he lives and may leave a note telling his wife what he gets up to

And I almost said that it was a lighter colour than Lachssilber haha. I just assumed it was the digicam settings you were using to take the pics. Anyway, nice project!