gtstarped

from a 99 318i wagon with 240ks. roasted nicely . special version that eats water and over heats. good for parts of possibly new gaskets. $1 http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=639569738

interesting thoughts . sounds like a mix of exhaust leak (check front flexi as most split) and something around the injectors. i had a very similar sound from mine when i was using a bad crank sensor, just before it packed up and would not start. most have been bad signals to dme. running ok? if it just doesn't start one day after this, head to crank sensor.

Rare RH drive M5 exhaust headers from a 1990 NZ New BMW M5. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=637432918 $800 Pm me if interested

Bid $500 and no one will outbid you then :-)

$1 reserve for a cooked M50B25 on behalf of a mate. May just be gasket bit was eating all the water and sending it out the exhaust. Long block only but everything available less manifold. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...412&ed=true Unwanted M3 E36 wheels. Funnily enough one is genuine and the other 3 are copies. One tyre is good, the rest are toast due to poor alignment. $1 http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...913&ed=true

Hey guys, Got a large case LSD from a E28 forsale. Its a 3.07 but might be good to use the centre in a E34 V8 diff. $475 Pm me if interested.

Happy days all round!

To be removed from my E28 M535i, however is the same box as the E30 M3. Rare opportunity to convert US or Jap etc E30 to euro spec box. $2k http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...749&ed=true

Looking to mock up my engine conversion on the garage floor so need a cross member from a E28 535. PM me, any condition Cheers Tim

A mates driving it at the mo but happy to give him the boot as he's bought another car. Offers I think its and 86, auto, 3.5lt, 3.07 LSD, no rust, WOF, rego. Is my parts car but got most things I need now. Could do you a M535i/ E30 M3 dogleg too if required too

could do you a large case 3.07 lsd for $450 if you could locate the other parts.

i wish didn't know. i just change to braid for every e36 i have out now. don't expect to see anything obvious under there, were talking such a minimal increase in fluid capacity. just order one and lift once, otherwise it'll make a cheap job more than necessary. Tim

12 for 3.0 or 22/23 for 3.2. Its not that clear but thats the hose

there is only one soft hose to replace, the rest are metal. its the one from slave to mounting on the body. the evo supposedly does have a switch of some sort but my donor didn't. i think its a clutch switch of some sort.

hey, this is a common e36 m3 problem, especially with high ks. search low engaging or clutch hose. i know Brents hasn't worked , but my s50b32 helped significantly with a new hose after being almost un-driveable, however like Brents the box needs to come off too. on my s50b30 however it completely fixed it from not being able to change gear when hot at all to having a massive amount of spring and engaging correctly. buy from ebay UK and when bleeding, bleed up a full bottle to get rid of all the air. the slave is a dumb device, either works or leaks and doesn't, don't waste your time unless leaking. master, had mine pulled out and tested was all good on one with no leaks and the other leaked but still worked even in that state. the master and slave will let you know dramatically so unless they do ignore, change hose, bleed up then see where you are. like Brent and i, hopefully its not the pivot pin in the box (assumption).

been thru everything like fuses yesterday and nothing. sorted a few earths today and it coughed and spluttered to life out of the blue after flatting the battery yesterday cranking it. ran for 30mins, now it has a cam sensor error permanently which josh pulled up as a intermittent error when he ran codes in the dark last night as was at the bottom of the drive way, cleared it and didn't come back. oobviously has now decided to show its self. cam sensors out now and a mates bringing one over. will text you tonight to confirm its alive and to confirm tomorrow. cheers

i was readying my track hack for pukekohe this weekend so decided to cut loose wiring out of the rear of the car. i was starting the carafter each cut to make sure it did not effect it but may have not tried last few times. went to start today and its just cranking. ews clicks, can feel fuel in the lines but won't bite. no codes of importance. is there anything in the wiring that runs up the side of the car that effects the dme or anything like that on start up? heard a rumour today there may be something fuse related but not yet confirmed. its bad timing as i have limited time to get it ready for Saturday and I'd run the fuel a bit low possibly and was washing front of engine after changing the radiator aftermgetting coolant over it, so I'm a bit lost on where to start. has fuel now and crank sensor not showing up in codes. last time i tried it coughed once but did not start. any help is appreciated cheers

forsale for $1 on behalf of a mate. auction 618518600 http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=618518600 likely its a runner based on previous owners descriptions and evidence of rotted out dme housing, but can't prove and doesn't want to put time into it.

Its cooked but may just be gasket, if not bottom end will be good for M50 stroker Circa 230ks At this point $1 http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...228&ed=true

i can certainly see a black m3 from that lot :-)

More reading for you. The top three on here are what I'm getting but no codes, like I said worth a try I reckon!!!! http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showt...Position-Sensor Another link http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=610143

happy to wave your wand over my ships anchor if you so like

hi jayden, currently experiencing a similar issues. josh scanned mine and picked up nothing so did more research and found there is a lot of threads on this, especially in the 3.2. i pulled my intake manifold off and cleaned the icv which appeared to have resolved the lumpy idle, intermittent hesitation up to 3000rpm and backfiring/ missing on deccleartion. it was mint for about 1000ks but has now returned. so either icv is clogged again (unlikely), its not the icv, or its just stuffed. i also has suspicions it may be a vacuum leak through the brake booster due to heavy wear, and the gushing sound when i depress the pedal. changed the booster at the same time as the icv but still gustes even with another one. have changed discs and pads this week to eliminate this. once i get over the frustrations, this is my to do list. 1) tighten lower hose from compressor unit. 2) block off brake booster and check idle 3) check hoses again for holes between airmass and throttle body 4) change/ clean other icv i picked up from Brent 5) change the tps although josh got all the correct readings and it certainly changes when i unplug while idling, I've found out it was a recall item on m3's and is worth a go for $100 6) then i guess I'll get a couple of coils and change two at a time, but i believe if these fail they show up a code weird thing happens too which may be the key, if its idling ok i can drop the bonnet and car will hickup obviously like this has caused the issue on demand? I'm not convinced sending it to bmw yet before i try all this as they will do the codes i can do and then do all of these anyway, I've also read most success in fixing has been done by people themselves, not specialists making educated guesses, however i could be proved wrong. if your over the shore i think it might be worth comparing the issues, you know where i am eh? happy to hear from anyone that's sorted this issue before. cheers Tim ps. my 3.0 also had a massive leak from the vanos to block seal before i pulled it out.

You might be lucky, there was another guy texting me off Bimmersport who was all over them too, but you'd already committed. All good, just give me your E28 for $2k and we'll call her even!

SOLD