actletpone

http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=684561836

Sounds quite allot although I guess they are rare. I honestly have no idea what s50/s52's are worth. It's not a project that is starting anytime soon, basically weighing up options to get a reliable 240 - 280 hp out of an e30.

What is the rough going rate of an s50 (e36 m3) engine?

Awesome.

It seems their intention is to ticket you, speed cameras have been re-calibrated to the 4km/h tolerance... http://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/news/article.cfm?c_id=1&objectid=11165939

I got hit with that too, I do not have the auto virus attachment problem you have though. I'm guessing you clicked on one of the spam links? Personally in terms of free protection I use Avast antivirus and malwarebytes for malware, I ditched avg a couple of years ago.

I am after an e39 mid or the ribbon cable to try and repair it. I see some mid units on trademe, does anyone sell the ribbon cable in NZ? This unit does not have the telephone button, can the units be interchanged? Do they use the same ribbon cable?

I can't wait to see all the off duty police officers overtaking trucks in the passing lane @ 104 km/h while travelling to their family holiday destinations.

Police will this summer enforce the 4km/h speed ticket threshold for 62 days in a row - a move that could spell the end of the 10km/h speed tolerance. For two months from December 1, police will be aggressively targeting drivers travelling at more than 4km/h over the speed limit. If the extended trial was a success, the the 4km/h speed threshold could become a permanent fixture on our roads, Assistant Commissioner of road policing Dave Cliff said. http://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/news/article.cfm?c_id=1&objectid=11163302

Sold

I know I said no under offers in the advert, but it's a different story when someone is offering you the cash. I have given it some thought, my absolute lowest is $2,300.

Give it to her for christmas I want it to sell so I can stop thinking about keeping it. Hands down it is in better condition than my 325. If I had the space for a project I would be keeping it.

I honestly might regret this, but here it goes.. $2.300 firm. Non negotiable. I will not take $1 less. I purchased this car in July 2010 @ 247,104 k's The car was sold brand new in Tauranga in 1990 and I am the 4th private owner. Current mileage is 276,XXX Wof until 9/4/14 Rego until 26/1/14 Car is located in Tauranga. Has allot of good bits: Factory radio with aux wired in SE (special equipment) model, sideskirts, sports steering wheel, leather handbrake surround, ski bag hole with armrest in rear seat, factory twin pipe exhaust, boot lid lining etc New Zealand new, no catalytic converter from factory Shadow line window trim Full set of original floor mats, full tool kit, wheel lock nut set with key, owners manual booklet, all windows wind down, antenna works, blower fan works, fog lights, no problems with central locking or anything Clutch feels good To the best of my knowledge the body is tidy and straight with little to no rust. There was a small bit in the corner by the bonnet seal where the battery sits which I cut out, there is some corrosion bubbling on the RHS wing mirror, but I honestly believe overall it is really straight. Tyre tread was 6 mm front (Firestones) and 3 mm rear (Supercats) at last wof (26/9/13). I have all receipts and wof sheets from my ownership of the car, and service history from before, it has a full documented service history in terms of oil changes since day 1 !!! No 'notes for next time' on last wof Imo the car is in an overall clean condition. Clean interior aside from wear on drivers seat side bolster. There are a couple of dash cracks but it is pretty good. You can have a spare air flow meter I got for it while trying to diagnose a funny idle. Turned out to be a leaking intake manifold gasket leak which I replaced with a new gasket. The AFM can't be a common number or something, it took me a while to find and cost me $100, I tried putting it on trademe for $50 but couldn't sell it. During my ownership I have done the following (not all wof items): Replaced vacuum and fuel hoses I noticed needed replacing New battery 17/2/11 New rear left shock mount 12/4/11 (purchased in pairs, only one was blown but you can have the other new one too) Rear brake pads 26/1/12 2 x new Firestone tyres 21/3/12 Front left suspension arm + bushing 14/9/12 Drive shaft guibo 14/9/12 Air filter 10/12/12 @ 270,000 Fuel filter, new rear trailing arm bushings, new rear subframe bushings, new rear diff mount, brake + clutch fluid replaced 21/6/13 @ 274,000 k's + Many other little things, have receipts for all the main stuff. What this car needs: The front right panel is silver because I was sitting at a T section and someone cut the corner too close and clipped the front right bumper edge + damaged the panel. My plan was to fix this car in the summer after I finished uni, but I have recently purchased an e30 325i SE, hence the reason I am selling this one. I do not have the space to keep two cars. Front right panel needs repainting Paint on roof and boot have peeling clear coat Black front right bumper plastic replacement $65 Drivers seat side bolster $150 Intake boot $65, currently has insulation tape on it Brake rotors are getting thin Scuff on rear right black plastic bumper trim, could probably be sanded out. Reverse lights only work when trans is warm, probably will be the reverse light switch, they were always working by the time I drove to the garage for a wof. The fan blade broke because the previous owner cable tied a metal shield onto the radiator hose and the cable tie broke. I put another fan blade on it which also broke. I suspect the first broken fan blade has worn the water pump bearings due to vibration. The car is due for a cam-belt replacement by age at the end of this year so I intended to do it all at once along with fixing up the paint after I finished uni. Currently cooling fan is missing 3 blades. Doesn't overheat or anything though and never has during my ownership, sits just below 1/2 way mark. The first 3 photos are older. I have everything to go with the car including the front mud flaps, side skirt pieces, front lip and all associated clips, screws etc. The car has not used any coolant during my ownership. Coolant was nice and green when I purchased it and was partially refilled a few months ago. I have felt a vibration in the steering wheel around 80-100 km/h, probably needs a wheel balance. Diff is a medium case 4.1 and makes no strange noises + no leaks, trans is a getrag 240 + no leaks and I have not had any problems, got the mechanic to check the trans oil every 2nd wof although I suspect the shift linkages are getting a bit loose. Engine runs fine imo, I top up the oil a bit between changes but consumption is not major like you need to carry around a spare bottle of oil or anything and the owners manual says the car may use up to 1 quart between changes so since I read that I stopped worrying. There is a slight oil leak down the front of the engine which I suspect is the front cam seal (replace it when timing belt is done). The car does not drip any oil on the ground and engine bay etc is very clean. Steering feels good. I thought about swapping a b25 motor into this car many times. Many parts on this car are in better condition than those on my new 325i, I thought about swapping them over but I do not want to 'rob' them from this car, fixed up this car it will be mint. Therefore the price is non negotiable including all the better bits. Do not offer me less, the answer will be no. To the best of my knowledge I have described this car accurately, probably too accurately. Saying that I am not a mechanic, it will be the buyers duty to inspect and it will be sold 'as is where is' and nothing I have said in this advert shall be used against me. Feel free to ask any questions or request any pictures. Pm me if your interested. It is more than possible I have forgotten something while writing this massive wall of text, but if I remember anything I will add it.

Rust free...

Have Firestone 195/65/14 TZ700's on my car

I would recommend 15w40 for summer and 10w40 for winter. It depends on the air temperature where you live I can copy the oil grade chart out of my NZ new e30's handbook if anyone wants it. I use mineral oil personally, It was good enough for the car when it was new and I can change it every 6 months without breaking the bank. Synthetic oils can make old seals leak more, so if my engine was rebuilt I would probably use synthetic. Also in the handbook.. Engine oil consumption: Max 0.15 litre per 100 km. Like fuel consumption engine oil consumption depends on the way the car is driven and on operating conditions. Also the quantity of oil represented by the space between the two marks on the dipstick is 1 litre.

Wonder how much these are worth now. Pretty much my dream car right there, I don't have those kind of funds though. Brake and clutch fluid need a change I notice.

So it was what I thought it was, didn't have much time to look. Saw it go past and checked out the badge as you do.. then was like hold on a sec. Looks awesome, but everyone already knows that

Think I saw a dark blue 340i e30 in Tauranga, number plate something like HOT40 ?

Was it hit on the left hand side?

How do these $70 fiberglass ones attach? Do they fit into the standard clips?

So I was reading through the euro plates for sale thread and saw allot of talk about people getting pulled up in Auckland recently. What is the actual difference between the ones people have got from overseas and the official ones from plates.co.nz. Or do the police check the database and see your car is not approved for a euro style plate? Are there any laws prohibiting the use of frames?

There should be a clip/bracket which holds the feed and return lines together.

Yeap pretty simple, remove the fuel pump fuse (11) or the fuel pump relay (middle of the 3 by the front left strut tower) and turn the car over first before you disconnect the line you are replacing. This will depressurize it so you won't risk fuel getting sprayed into your eyes. Also make sure the replacement line is fuel injection hose, should say efi or something on it. When I replaced mine supercheap sold me fuel hose for a carbureted car (which is rated to allot less pressure) and told me it would be fine for fuel injection. You should use fuel injection hose clamps too, they are smoother on the inside.

Round 2.. http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.asp?id=654252196&cc=602&pid=288532632&hbc=&ct=link When you say bodywork needs attention do you mean what is in the photos? .. or does it have rust issues? Seems cheap to me, I'm surprised it didn't sell the first time.