BreakMyWindow

I'm after one in good condition, not fussed about what style of wood trim it is, just no cracks or other damage. prefer pick up in Auckland area. Thanks.

Sold.

Sold.

Sold.

Sold.

Good upgrade for non M-tech V8 cars. I will include 2 brand-new genuine BMW 25mm bushes. $20

In good condition. Suitable upgrade for 6 cylinder E39 cars that have a 13mm sway bar. $10

In excellent condition. Out of a late 2000 model E39 540i M $20 for the pair.

$30 for the pair. They are in excellent condition. They will lower the front of the car significantly. Pic of when installed in to my old 540i below :

I purchased the internal unit brand-new from Giltraps in NZ, this is the substitue VW maf sesnor that I have installed in to the BMW M62tu MAF housing. Only used in car for 10,000kms. Will swap it for an e39 centre console wood-trim panel. Don't care on the style of wood-trim, just as long as there are no cracks. Or will sell for $20 Cheers.

As a reference, any one who is needing new MAF's for their E39 540i or M5, I have found a very cheap place for genuine Bosch units via Germany. I paid $315NZD incl shipping for 2 x E39 M5 MAF units in housings. http://www.maf-shop.com/product_info.php/i...3621433566.html

Absolutley amazing! Nice, tasteful mods. Love the wheels too.

Have bought alot of parts from them. Very easy to deal with. You could try using Youshop, but would probably take a bit longer for your items to arrive to nz.

DIY or paying someone? If paying someone, budget for half the car's value. It's a tough call, but can't really buy any better for the money you paid.

I was seriously considering buying that one of Brent. Really nice car to drive, just missing the low end torque due to the swirly flaps in the inlet manifold being out of commision.

Google chrome does the translation if you open that link in it. I would only bother with the Vanos on the M62tu when you have to replace the timing chain rail guides.

Knowhow : http://tis.bmwcats.com/

Car is now back on the road. Finally! I ended up using some castor-oil based rubber grease to lube the o-rings when re-installing the thermo. housing. No pinches, no breaks, this stuff is much better then vasoline. KTEMP readings are now correct, and not dropping below the thermostat Threshold of 78deg C Re-assembly took about 3 hours, alot of nuts and bolts to re-install, and torque correctly. here's a pic of the base of the inlet manifold going back on.

I've heard that some Lemfoder parts are manufactured in China. I'm pretty sure this is the case, as the parts vs original BMW ones are much cheaper through ECS tuning.

As in some GT1 magic? Drivers side valve cover gasket procedure is now done. This was MUCH easier than the passenger side. Not long now till she is back on the road!

mmm roast lizard. I actually touched it thinking it was some leaves until i saw it's head and then decided to get some long pliers to get it out hehe.

Some pics from yesterdays work. The very dead rodent found festering away in between the drivers headlight, and lower air intake box. I think it was a rat, as it was a bit big for a mouse. At least it was warm for a while. RIP ratty. Blankets to keep her warm : Coolant pipes connecting the thermo housing to the coolant pipes traversing the valley area of the block. Still waiting for the large order of o-rings to arrive, the pipe missing the oring, had approx. 1/4 of the o ring sitting underneath it on the block, which was causing the leak.

Not sure if removing cats will cause ecu trouble. It has pre and post oxy sensors. Will have to look in to it. Made some good progress today. Passenger side valve cover back on. Plugs, coils and other bits that were in the way were cleaned and re-assembled. Driver side valve cover is off and is now drying after a good cleaning. Thermo housing and o-rings connecting the water pipes are now off for the forth time. Waiting on new o rings to arrive from the usa. Found a very dead mouse under the headlight assembly when removing driver side air intake boxes. No evidence of any wires chewed! Whew!!

Just wanting to run it with the manifold off to check for leaks around the damned o-rings which are normaly covered by the manifold is all, so 15 - 20mins of idling with a few revs up to about 3k rpm to help the bubbles in the coolant get out.

Seems pricey considering no wof or reg. something tells me this would be an endless money pit.