BreakMyWindow

The bushes and trim you should be able to source o'seas for much cheaper than over here. I use bmfans.info to obtain the part numbers then paste them in to sites like : Ecstuning.com pelicanparts.com autohausaz.com schmeidmann.com You can setup a usa forwarding address to cut down on shipping costs.

Do a wheeler dealer on it, or restore it back to original then store it and sell it when the inflation bug hits the e36 M3 like it did for the E30 M3.

Since replacing the relay, the issue has returned back once, so i am pretty sure that it has triggered the knock sensor code.

Cut and polish complete. Paint work is not perfect, but is MUCH better than it was.

Wow thats a fair bit of work. Looking forward to hearing of the results once the Vanos is refreshed, I wish I had done mine when I got the rail guides done, but Besian had not finished their testing. Are you doing the timing chain guide rails also?

Mine is a bit different from that diagram. I have 3 minty green coloured relays, the fuel pump relay is the 1st one to the left of the row of 3. I hate just throwing money at problems I can't get to the root cause of, but i figure a spare relay can't hurt. have now replaced the relay and will see if the problem comes back.

Any ideas on where it's located? I don't seem to have a large Black relay behind the boot trim cover on the right side. This is where they are in the US spec cars according to m5board.

I'll be throwing a few 'guesses' at it soon. I have a new fuel filter, new MAF's and new pre-cat oxy sensors arriving. these were ordered for preventative maintenance. Gut feel tells me fuel related. When I had the car apart to do the valve cover gaskets, and thermostat I had the batt. disconnected for about 3weeks. When i re-connected the batt, and fired her up without the inlet mani installed, mafs etc it took 3 starts to get her running. I did this as i could check for water leaks easier with the inlet mani off after replacing the o-rings on the thermo. housing. I did go to see Glenn about 2 weeks after, and there were stored fault codes for : Fuel pump relay, knock sensor cyl 3&4, and ign. coils cyl 1&2. Since clearing those faults, and going back to Glenn for a scan, I got re-ocurring codes of : knock sensor cyl 3&4, fuel pump relay. Cleared the codes again, and now the only re-occuring one is Knock sensor cyl 3&4.

Nope, not misfiring. Well, no fault codes for it - the only code pulled up this morning was for knock sensor cylinders 3-4, however im not convinced the shuddering is caused by this fault, as if knock is detected, the power should be down, but smoothed out. The engine sounds like an old school rs turbo legacy with a 3' exhaust when it shudders/hesitates, which leads me to believe its something to do with exhaust timing, or a lack of fuel. this seems to occur more often after stop/start auckland m'way traffic, and then disappears when the flow of traffic is smoother. I really wish I could get the live data read whilst driving, but chances are the car will behave normaly when trying to reproduce the fault!

Have been trying to get to the bottom of an issue i've noticed since owning this thing. I think I may need to get it hooked up to Ray's GT1 tester.. Intermittently, the engine will start to hesitate and shudder when applying some throttle in the 1500rpm rev range. This is more pronounced in higher gears, i.e 4th 5th 6th. It will also feel flat if accelerating in any gear to the limiter. I'm not sure if the shuddering is related to this, but it will at times certainly feel down on power, and torque in the low-rpm rev range. Other times it won't. Have a set of brand-new mafs, fuel filter, and oxygen sensor arriving soon (as preventative maintenance) but im doubting it will be one of these items causing the issue. The re-occuring fault codes i've had so far are : Knock sensor fault cyl 3-4, and fuel pump relay.. maybe the early signs of a dying fuel pump, maybe a bad knock sensor, but i doubt the knock sensor would cause the shuddering and hesitation. All this is intermittent, and a pain to troubleshoot. #///Mcarproblems

I have the old 4:3 monitor with mk2 nav and tv. Main purpose i got navcoder was to turn off the stupid 'check brake light' warning. There was no fault, just the old school lcm not happy with the facelift cellis tail lights.

Purchased navcoder, and also ordered a USB to IBUS interface cable. No more annoying 'Check brake Light' message, and TV is now on in motion :-)

They actually run a lot cooler then that. The thermostat is set to open at 79deg C. I havn't seen the temp go passed 89deg. Summer may be a different story however. This is a board members car. It's a fantastic example, but it was a out of my price range. DIY on these cars can be a pig. Especially engine work. There is a large following in the USA though, so parts are not eye-watering expensive. (i.e Thermostat is $40USD vs $200+ NZD via BMWnz) And there is plenty of good diy info out there.

Got some time to address the rear end paint work this weekend. The rear bumper, and boot lid looked like they had been washed with 1000grit sandpaper. Im not sure if the previous owner was trying to do a rangi 'Frozen' paint work effect or what. Meguiars clay bar, Meguiars scracth x 2.0 a whole lot of elbow grease, and some Mothers caranuba wax to finish off. I still have 4 doors and the front section to complete. This is before, a trademe as pic : After :

I'm after one in good condition, not fussed about what style of wood trim it is, just no cracks or other damage. prefer pick up in Auckland area. Thanks.

Sold.

Sold.

Sold.

Sold.

Good upgrade for non M-tech V8 cars. I will include 2 brand-new genuine BMW 25mm bushes. $20

In good condition. Suitable upgrade for 6 cylinder E39 cars that have a 13mm sway bar. $10

In excellent condition. Out of a late 2000 model E39 540i M $20 for the pair.

$30 for the pair. They are in excellent condition. They will lower the front of the car significantly. Pic of when installed in to my old 540i below :

I purchased the internal unit brand-new from Giltraps in NZ, this is the substitue VW maf sesnor that I have installed in to the BMW M62tu MAF housing. Only used in car for 10,000kms. Will swap it for an e39 centre console wood-trim panel. Don't care on the style of wood-trim, just as long as there are no cracks. Or will sell for $20 Cheers.

As a reference, any one who is needing new MAF's for their E39 540i or M5, I have found a very cheap place for genuine Bosch units via Germany. I paid $315NZD incl shipping for 2 x E39 M5 MAF units in housings. http://www.maf-shop.com/product_info.php/i...3621433566.html