Arma

Haven't sorted out this issue yet. Been in a motorcycle accident, broken bones, surgeries etc. so will be out of action for a few months. Will likely be buying lock barrels from Brent when I can and get locksmith to calibrate them with my key.

Yep the valet lock is a mechanical deadlock. I managed to get into the boot, but had to use a 5mm drill bit behind the number plate and engage the locking mechanism that holds the boot down. I used a hammer to loosen the actual deadlock so that the key finally turned back to vertical position - but the cylinder needs replacing. Will need to get the hole filled up too - maybe with some 'Knead It' or any other better alternatives (I'll chat to a panelbeater). Going to buy some spares from Brent (cylinder + actuator) and the locksmith said he will recalibrate the cylinder to work with my key. Knowing my luck, about an hour after I got the boot open, my driver door lock cylinder broke too, which now does not turn left (So I can't lock it using the key). So looks like I'll need to buy a cylinder for the driver door too now. Oh the joy. Also doesn't help that my driver door actuator is dead (has been since i got the car) so can't just electronically lock it. As a temporary solution I am using hacky means of locking the car: Get inside car, open driver side window, use central locking to lock all other doors, keep key in ignition in power mode, get out of car, physically press the lock down on driver door through the open window, press the electronic window close button, pull key out of ignition before window closes... Not fun. Hopefully sort it out in the next week or so. Locksmith said he's worked on some of these BMW locks before and they are a pain in the ass. So if any of your locks/keys have trouble turning, I'd consider getting a replacement soon, because once it's broken it's hard to get into!

Thanks all. Have tried lubricating it etc. From what I understand, the valet lock disengages the boot from the electrical lock system, so not sure if I can engage it electrically in anyway - but might be wrong. Waiting for a call back from one more locksmith. Depending on their response, next step might be to take it to the dealership and see what they say. Not planning to drill any holes until I've exhausted all options :-). Still got Saturday night's groceries sitting in there, going to start to stink soon..

Because I'm an idiot. How it started was as of Saturday night the boot key was actually not turning left (for manual unlock) when it was in vertical position, so I went to investigate. So while trying to moderately brute force it and wiggle the key around I accidentally turned it a bit too much to the right, which put it in valet mode. I should have just left it as it is, because even though I couldn't manually turn it left from the vertical position to open it, the electronic buttons still worked. But once in valet mode, I can't get out of it. Silly me.

So after doing a mixture of calling up or visiting about 5 or 6 locksmiths in Auckland, none of them can (or want to) fix it and have kept referring me to another locksmith who "might be able to do it". I took it to BMWorkshop, who said they can't do it either, and to contact a locksmith. Is this really that difficult To sum up the symptoms: Key stuck in valet position I suspect the cylinder/spring or something is broken because it can't be turned back into normal (vertical) position even with the master key When the lock was in vertical position, all the electronic lock/unlock function for the boot worked fine Because the key is stuck in valet position, i can't open the boot using any of the electronic buttons Because I can't turn the key to bring the lock to vertical position again, I can't open the boot manually either So in summary, the boot can't be released electronically or manually If I could somehow, magically, bring the lock back to vertical position again (i.e. take it out of valet mode) then I would be able to open the boot using the electronic buttons. But.. I can't bring it back to vertical position again because something is broken and the key won't turn.. and apparently no one can fix it I guess last resort would be down the "drill a hole" route.

I've managed to get it stuck again and, now it won't open. Dammit!

Bad luck - check engine light has come back on. Will find some time during the week to visit Glenn probably and hope it's nothing major. Seems like 20+ mins of motorway driving throws the light on. Everything was fine city driving and idling etc. Research shows the code is related to the Evap Canister Purge Control Valve - if it's that then it looks like an easy job to fix (valve sits under the intake manifold, so have to take air intake box off, disconnect maf etc.).. will see what we found out once it is in the shop.

Over 4 years now :-)

Kyu was kind enough to come over with his scanner (thanks). Error code was a P0444 - Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit Open. We cleared the code. I tightened my fuel tank lid (in case there is a sensor there somewhere, I don't know). Engine light hasn't come on since - have done some motorway driving, city driving etc. Will wait and see if it still comes on again at some point.. hopefully not.

Been over a year since I posted here. Been busy riding motorcycles lately so haven't done much with the car. No good news to post - my yellow check engine light has come on and will need to be scanned. I don't really want to drive it far with the light on just in case, so might just have to take it in to BM Workshop, which is closeby for me, for the scan to identify what the actual issue is. Engine seems to be running fine, no rough idles, no rough anything, no loss of power etc. Hopefully just an o2 sensor or vac hose, but who knows :-). Getting it scanned tomorrow (I should get my own scanner already!) Apart from that, taking the car to panel shop end of the month to get all those dents (door and side skirt) sorted out.

No fold-down seats - mine comes with the big barrier between the boot and rear seats. I've managed to 'fix' this now with brute force. The hook or whatever must have gotten stuck inside when I turned the key to the right. I had to hold down the electric boot button and push the bootlid upwards with a lot of force, which managed to loosen the lock enough for me to turn it back into position with the key. After that everything worked as usual. Thanks for the responses guys.

Hi all, Ran into a little bit of an issue with the boot on my e39 530i: it won't open / is stuck in valet mode or something. Everything worked fine this morning - opened with electronic switch without any issue, and also opened with the key without any issue this morning. This afternoon I went to open the boot (with the key) and accidentally turned the key far to the right. This basically made the lock be stuck in that position. A little research shows that this is 'Valet mode' apparently? So since that happened I basically am unable to use my key to turn the boot lock AT ALL now, in any direction. The cabin electronic unlock button does not seem to unlock the boot anymore either, and the boot release switch on the drivers side also does nothing. Also, there is no switch in the glove box that sets the lock/unlock for the boot for valet mode (I read that some e39s have this, mine does not). So... how the hell do I get into the boot? Does this sound like a mechanical issue? If yes, I'll just take it into a shop and let them deal with it. Would AA Road service know what to do? (since I've got a bunch of roadside service requests available). Or.. does anyone know any other magical way to get out of this 'valet mode' for the boot, for e39s that don't have the glove-box switch? This is the configuration that the boot lock is currently stuck in: Cheers

Hi Andrew, What are the widths of the wheels, and what are the widths of the tires are they all 235s / Is this a square or staggered set up? Cheers

So beautiful.

So I decided to start the week by doing this to my e39 (see pic below). Basically the side skirt on the passenger side is damaged. AFAIK the side skirt is part of the car's body/frame. Anyone know the best route to go down for fixing this? Just have panel beaters pull out and repaint? Not sure if I want to cut out the whole skirt and weld a new one in.

Got this fixed at Glenn's this week (Botany Motorworxx), thanks! The one time I needed the squealing sound to appear, it decided not to. So after using a stethoscope we could tell the idler pulley and tensioner pulley bearings were pretty much on their way out. The sound was most likely coming from the idler pulley - just couldn't replicate it that day, despite it squealing its butt off the day before. Belts were still in good condition, so just replaced the idler pulley and the pulley for the tensioner. I have the hydraulic tensioner in the car, so only needed to change the pulley instead of the whole tensioner unit. Also sorted out a small oil leak coming from the exhaust cam sensor - o-ring replacement. Odd as I just replaced it a few months ago. Glenn did a pressure test on the cooling system since I suspected a leak, but did not find anything. I generally have been topping up my coolant by half a litre every 3 weeks or so, so nothing major. The day before the pulley fix I managed to get a recording of the squeal sound if anyone finds it useful:

Car looks awesome! #e39crew

Thanks all. Yeah i might need to do this. Haven't had the chance yet. The squeal has been pretty on and off. Last few days i've heard it like once or twice, and it lasted for a total of 10 seconds. Seems to stop when i put the car into neutral / when not moving. But one of the times when the car was stand still it still squealed, so might just be coincidence/unrelated.

Haven't updated this for a whiile! Did an engine oil and filter service last month and also changed the thermostat (for like the 4th time in 2 years) due to it leaking constantly. I thought that had concluded my entire cooling system but looks like I might have another coolant leak now... and maybe a belt problem. First thing I noticed was something under the bonnet started squealing very loud when driving occasionally - figured something is up with the belts (though all my belts have been replaced a year ago) and/or pulleys -> my idler pulley did seem to have a very slight wobble last time i checked. Not sure where exactly the squeal is coming from since it goes away every time im about to check under the bonnet.. but perhaps it's related to that idler pulley. What I did notice was small amount of coolant spray on my air intake box , sprayed from coolant falling on the belt I'd say, which is exactly what happened when my old thermostat was leaking. Better not be the new thermostat leaking too - I'm sick of changing thermostats . Perhaps the squeal is being caused by coolant falling on the belt. Will need to take it in to have it checked out. There seems to be quite a lot of info regarding squealing sounds in e39s online, all pointing to all sorts of different things but mainly around the belt being bad. Drive and feel still feels normal. The squealing sound is just bloody annoying when it appears sometimes. I had my waterpump replaced just few months ago as well, and I checked it for leaks when changing the thermostat and it seemed all good. All the main hoses are new as well, along with radiator etc. I guess coolant leaks just love me.

Hey - it might still be in the car. Will have to check when I get a chance. If it's there (and not required for anything in the car that I'm currently using) then I'm happy to throw it in for like 50 bucks if that sounds reasonable.

Ah ok. Oh bugger - stupid forum posted my topic twice, for some reason the second one wasn't showing attachments. Edit: Fixed - photos should show up now.

Hi all, I'm selling the 16:9 widescreen unit from my e39 as I have replaced it with an aftermarket headunit. I am only selling the unit itself - no wiring or anything. I'm looking for around $300 but happy to negotiate. I've priced it simply based on listings I've previously seen, what people have told me etc. So hopefully it is cheap, rather than a rip-off. :-) Unit is in great condition - no pixel issues whatsoever, displays all OBD info and all knobs are in excellent working order. So get rid of the crappy 4:3 screen in your e39 and fit this in .

tree30

Welcome! Good to see another e39 owner. :-) I got second hand Xenon facelift/angel eye headlights for mine for about $600 for the pair - though the headlight adjusters were broken (which is fixable). Halogen ones would go for fair bit cheaper than that I'd imagine - I'm sure one of the parts suppliers will have a pair if you ask around.

Yeah what's up with those seats? Didn't know you could get those in an m5 / msport e39.