CamB

How can you tow it if it won't move in neutral? If it doesn't move in neutral - even by pushing - then either the insides of the gearbox have seized or its not really in neutral and you have an engine problem. You need to troubleshoot more. In addition to that, you sound like you have an electrical problem. Wait - is it auto or manual gearbox?

Hee hee - looks like an M3 but 2/3 the cylinders ... 1/2 the capacity ... and 1/3 the power. LOL.

Unfortunately no - if it's a '72 its a round tail light (and long bumper). I wonder how damaged it is. I could kinda do with a spare bonnet and one of the front guards. And another engine - LOL - I better not go any where near it or I'll end up with a parts car I don't need...

As the title says - I'm trying to hunt down a 2002 rear bumper - the short one from the later cars.

Figure out if you are going to end up changing the bore. If yes, buy a whole engine. (edit) Yes Brent did say you need the crank, rods and pistons from a 730. He didn't say whether you need to bore the block. He ALSO recommended you start with a M30B35. http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....st&p=187849 The thing is, the crank and rods are probably the same - the pistons are a bigger bore. So ... you could just get new pistons. Or, you could find a bigger block or just use what you've got. Both will be cheaper.

I don't have the printout scanned, but mine has 102hp at the wheels - stock 9.5:1 c/r tii with a noisy exhaust, on the Gavin's Dyno Dynamics. A couple of questions: - Do you know what the tcf means? - Why did it only get revved to 5800? 304 should make power to more like 6200-6300? Coz I agree - based on your before and after, I would have thought you'd be up for another maybe 10hp more?

damo and/or the poster above you Andrew. The thing is, I'm not picking GASTKR as good on the DIY front (no offence - neither am I) so as soon as you're paying for fabrication etc it starts getting expensive fast. The trickier (be it space contraints, high power levels, whatever) the job, the more chance of a ridiculous cost blowout.

If the book says 3 litre is 89mm then chances are it is 89mm. One other thing to remember is that an M30 is a tight fit on an E30, and an M20 turbo is a tight fit on an E30, so an M30 turbo is a very, very tight fit.

That box is probably an ignitor. I am interested to hear the feedback from the NZEFI guys on whether the G4 is a good product. I email Link last week and the G4 is what is now on offer.

I just googled the bore and stroke for M30s and it looked like the stroke is the same but the bore is bigger on the 3 litre. I could be wrong. The guys above are just trying to be helpful - there really is no replacement for displacement. I don't know much about M30s but if there is an engine which has a crank trigger (a 3.5?) which is compatible with Microtech/Link/Stinger/others then this would save some of the effort elsewhere in the build. In my opinion, you are best to try and find an engine which hasn't done too many km, and has a compression ratio of under 9:1 (and pref under 8.5:1), and try and use that without opening it (not even a new head gasket). The engine should be ok for low boost with the standard head gasket. Opening the engine is expensive - new pistons, bearings, gaskets, etc. The more modern engine may have more appropriate fuel injection etc too - more stuff you can avoid having to find (especially fuel rail). Start having a look at www.e30tech.com through some of the FAQ/Sticky threads and project threads. There is heaps of good info there - mostly on M20s - but to be honest an M20 turbo is more than enough IMHO so you could also consider that.

My main recommendation is that you make sure the mounting flange at the header end is strong - preferably 8mm or 10mm flange which you'd need to get cut/made (which will cost more in the short run but give less hassle in the long run).

http://www.google.co.nz/search?hl=en&q...earch&meta= To be fair - it might work for all I know if you flip it upside down. The issue is that google would tell you that: a) it never came in RHD, so its highly unlikely there will be any 745i turbos here b ) it was rare anyway c) even if there were, the manifold didn't fit in the conventional manner in RHD

- low compression 90mm pistons and cylinders and rest of stuff to rebuild the bottom end - head gasket - turbo manifold and downipe - turbo, intercooler, wastegate (maybe), blow off valve - bigger injectors - aftermarket computer - dyno time or AFR gauge - blah blah $12,000+ unless you do a lot of stuff yourself, blah blah - commas, and fullstops. - spell check A review of this thread: http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....93&hl=turbo Which I notice you posted in:

Hmmm, I see Topcat did a log with a topmount: http://s202.photobucket.com/albums/aa128/red535t/ Probably considerably cheaper to get one like this made here than getting the TCD one. If you've got US$2k spare and like stainless: http://www.666fabrication.com/m30/1.jpg

I can't comment on the later ones fitting (suspect no), but I think you'll find the cheap ones come from Asia and either they are available or not for a given car. You also need to be careful to make sure you aren't buying manifold which doesn't work on a RHD car. I wish I'd known of someone who could do it cheap. I bought one for my M10 from a guy in the US because: a) I knew it would fit it came with a beefy flange which was going to cost $$$ to get made here c) it worked out a wee bit cheaper overall. Not cheap - cheaper. I was advised its a lot of work, plus a few hundred $$ (200-300 depending on how elaborate it is) in materials. It would be cheapest if you got a log manifold: http://www.turbochargingdynamics.com/produ...(Top_Mount).php This TCD one isn't especially cheap, but it shows what a basic log manifold looks like (you can have one made out of steam pipe rather than the TCD being cast, which I'd personally pay extra for on a log manifold because it will last forever). You could possibly get the TCD one landed here for about $1000. I have no idea if it fits on RHD, but being a top mount is a good start. As to knowing someone who can do it cheap - where did topcat get his from?

Engineering shop usually cheaper (by about 80%) than Repco etc, and you should measure the length you want and take the old bolts to make sure you get the right diameter and thread pitch.

That might be overstating the case a little. Most BMWs are probably ok to about 12psi or double the standard power output on stock internals, as long as the compression ratio isn't too high. I would guess $10k and up if you are paying someone (ie drive in and drive out). You might get lucky (or cut corners) to keep the cost down. Allow a couple of grand (including labour) for contingencies.

I used the bottom two (at the corners of the bellhousing) and the top two either side of the head gasket mounting surface.

I'd personally run a 205/45 to try and avoid rubbing without too much stretch but I'm sure someone brave could get a 195 on there. Would be nice to be able to try a few sizes and see what fits without rubbing.

Shell is ruuuuuuuuuusty - hence the parting out.

Someone needs to get some of these on a car and take a photo!

One has a 5 series rear cover and axles (they are interchangeable).

I had hoped to get an electronic speedo for the cash difference (I've already got an inductive sensor) but ... not looking good at the moment. Haha. My loss is his gain...

Surprised which way?

Either a 3.46 or 3.64. How's that for unhelpful! It's at my house - I will try and remember to check tonight.