CamB

I'm not that bad a guy either. Which would be fair enough in the circumstances. Mind you if I was selling my car, it would have an asking price of $20k, which is slightly above what I think it is worth and in line with the prices they sell at. Hmmm, it just occurred to me you are making some sort of elitist comment about me selling an E30 M3, which I rather obviously don't have. Whatever. Look, I'm just not a believer in E30 M3 prices like you are. I believe they are valuable, and possibly appreciating*, automobiles. I believe they are worth less than you do, as do the majority of your M3-owning peers on S14power.com (where you confess to talking up values). How much less? Dunno. Serious question - there is a silver M3 with a cage which has been for sale in the Trademe competition cars section at $45k (for about 3 months) and now $40k (for a couple of months). Is he asking too much? Or is 6 months an acceptable timeframe to sell one? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/S...n-175981508.htm Note * - subject to events of the past week in the financial markets not absolutely killing collectible automobile prices, which is unfortunately a very strong possibility.

I wasn't negative on it - I just suggesting caution, so sounds like you did well Pics would be good! The Turners ones sucked.

I am not sure this is actually possible. I suggest you put a fuel pressure gauge on it and find out if you have pressure (rather than just flow).

LOL - that is true. I must confess to liking them BECAUSE they're ugly. The attractive sort of ugly.

Thanks Glenn. I actually have a problem with repeatability - I can't get it to do it when it's being free revved and can't look under the bonnet while driving. I think I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and actually get in there and check everything. Thanks for the list of stuff to check

So, car is an E36 M3 Evo, 115k km, engine etc is unmodified. It's developed a screech - sounds like a slipping belt - which only occurs at certain revs. It happens when the car is warm or cold. I assume the problem is either the tensioner and/or the belt, and I need to replace, but am curious as to: 1) why it occurs at certain revs - between 2.5 and 4k, only ever for about 300-500rpm (a quick screech), and often when I let off the gas rather than accelerating. Is there any chance it's not the belt and something else is making the noise, or that there is a problem with the fan clutch or a/c which is causing the drag? 2) whether this is a difficult job. I assume no, but haven't got a manual to check if there's anything inherently tricky about setting the belt tension. Thanks

You have no need to mention Trade Me - I am perfectly happy for people to have my TM name. Why wouldn't I? Perhaps because I am not paranoid, am honest and have nothing to hide... So the auction is long gone from when? From TM expiry or because you got banned. Banned. How about you get this portnoy.no1 fella to register here and post in your defence, since he loved the car so much. I remembered this time. I love this quote.

Holy sh*t you've unmasked me! Not my trademe user name. Nooooooooooo! Now where's a link to the auction that guy got the number from? (edit) Whoops, I forgot to put this - QFT:

Says the guy already banned by Trademe for schill bidding on the last auction? "Mum's credit card" - bullsh!t. Mate - you have zero credibility. The only person who needs to do any proving is you. So, provide a link to the auction that your new mate portnoy.no1 go your number from. Thanks. Also, YOU ARE NOT GOING TO SELL YOUR CAR FOR $15K. QFT one more time.

I love reliant Scimitars. Awesome. How could you consider that ugly.

Lips would be prohibitively expensive new. I forbid you from spending money on stud covers or centre caps before buying a new diff mount. Priorities! I once rang Arrow wheels and asked about lips. They were $$$$$$$$. However if you can find some from something else it should work. They're 6.5s - they'll be fine for 205 race tyres.

Pic doesn't work for me either.

jamex.co.nz

Yes to the first three - you can register it as a 2 seater, some of the belt mounts are suitable (although you'll need to buy something for the inner lap belt one - JiB found some place that had the correct size nut attached to the correct thickness plate with another same-size plate to sandwich it with (read the Motorsport NZ rules to see what I mean). Carpet is personal preference. Without it, it is much noisier and the floor (and thus interior) gets surprisingly hot.

I reckon my car needs it. It just doesn't feel as smooth as I'd expect at idle/low revs.

Do those actually fit on an E30 (conflicting info about whether they clear the brakes) - or do they need a spacer?

I don't actually have one so can't comment on those specific questions re: rotor arm and loose plastic bit. Good idea to use coil and lead (or at least the lead if you know the old coil was good).

Well they're not flash... More concerning, it looks like the end of the coil wire has broken off in the coil - that could be your problem. If you are going to remove it, unplug the coil first before sticking pliers or a screwdriver in there. Once thats fixed, keep in mind that if you've tried cranking it over a number of times without it successfully running (due to bad spark) it would also be worth checking to see if the plugs are now fouled.

So 3pedals ... thinking aloud - would your car still drive better with a staggered setup AND 50kg over the front wheels, or would that tip the balance (sorry about the pun) towards same size front/rear...

Must be this: http://www.s14.net/forums/showthread.php?t...ghlight=zealand Definitely an interesting read. "Factory RHD conversion" might be the most accurate description! Roland sure does like to argue, not that I can talk. Actually I am now confused - is this the car? Or is this a different one again? http://www.autotrader.co.nz/View/Used/BMW-...N=0&Ntk=All

Look again - I think you'll find that's $1 reserve: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=175284641

I put "factory" in quote marks for that reason - there's an extensive thread around here somewhere on that one too. Off topic - but this whole thread is anyway - but speaking of collectible(ish), I thought this was pretty cool: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-174906993.htm It looks like it has most of the options from the period and low km, which restoration can't buy. It's only rare because of condition/km though, not because tii's were rare. Would probably cost that much to restore one though...

Sadly it might be sod all (no offence intended). A bloke (interestingly enough in Napier) tried to sell an M535i in white, 5spd manual, etc in what seemed to be very good condition and with moderate km for something like 3-4 months on Trademe at prices steadily dropping from $7.5 - 7 - 6 - 6.5 - 6k. I can't remember exactly what it was advertised for when it finally stopped being advertised (I have no idea if it sold). You car looks very nice, but auto and non-M will mean its worth a bit less again. Would be a great cruiser. There are a couple of guys with several E28s so maybe they can give you a better view on value. You should stick it up on Trade Me with a decent price though - you never know you might find someone who loves it, and there is not much to lose if your "keep" price end up being more than you can sell it for. (edit - beaten to it)

I actually agree with pussytamer (despite the fact that I have a bad reputation around E30 M3 price discussions). However in a country as small as NZ it can work both ways ---> you can find there is no premium buyer. I've got an old Porsche 911 I will eventually get around to selling once I've tidied up a couple of further things (actually did some work on it yesterday afternoon - wooohooo). I reckon the difference in price between a keen buyer who wants it and a "regular" price for it is in the region of 30-40%. There might only be a handful of people in the keen buyer category in NZ, and if none of them are in a position to buy at a given time ... I won't get the good price. Arguably it needs not just 1, but 2 keen buyers to create some price tension. In the UK the gap would be narrower - a deeper pool of keen buyers. In the US it would be a lower price - more cars. In Australia it would be higher again - more buyers and fewer good cars... but we are in NZ. It could be that there are only 2 keen buyers for the M3 Evo this thread is about - the last owner and the current owner - or there could be many. It will be interesting to see if it sells (the "factory" RHD one for sale by someone associated with BMW Experience motorbikes has been for sale for $80k for at least 6 months, and maybe even 12 months). Its also unclear whether Roland ever sold his restored M3 cab, although I suspect not and he may just have elected to keep it.

I LOL'd at wanting more offset than 12p - make sure you've got the guard roller handy Looks like a good project to me. The offset caster bushings are available from BNT - they are Noltec and I believe the Noltec ones are potentially better than some other urethane options since they are solid (and they're the cheapest too).