CamB

www.bmw2002.com I'd guess US$20 shipping, and once Jeff Ireland gets around to shipping them they usually take about 1 week to get here.

After a pair of 2002 trailing arms - please contact me if you have some. Thanks Cam

Might I remind you of this thread, in the for sale section of this forum: http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....c=16120&hl=

What about a matching pressure plate?

That's disingenuous - dropping the reserve shows you are looking to sell it and raising the low bid this time around shows you are too (people don't know the reserve). I am not sure I believe you about it giving you a price signal either - the best bid on the auctions was $6,xxx, or around 50% of what I think you think the price is. I personally don't particularly care either way - you can advertise your car however you like, but when you criticise the "$17,500 ono" price of the car at the start of this thread you are being hypocritical, because you've whinged in your own for sale thread (and now this one) about people lowballing you.

I'd look pretty carefully at that car (as in check for problems carefully). "Runs good" doesn't inspire me with confidence. 323i is a hard one - they are the most desirable e21, but they're still an e21. They have their own character but the e30 is a better car.

Yes you have - your Trade Me auctions have had a $14k reserve.

I paid $21k for my M3 a few months ago, 110k km and full BMW service history. It needed about $1k of stuff tidied (front tyres, bushings and a service). Mine's an Evo, but a 4 door. Anything over $15k for a non-M is really pushing it IMHO. 3 litre M3s are generally under $20k (how much depends on km and condition), and Evos a little more. The increasing price of gas hasn't helped!

It looks pretty good, but I dunno that it's "original parts" In terms of parts, cheapest turbo setup I see a similar list to mops' list about 15 post ago: Turbo $500 - could be cheaper 2nd hand, this gets you a Trademe turbo and needs to be wastegated Oil lines and mods to the oil pan - $200 Intercooler and pipe $300-400 Engine ??? At least you need multilayer head gasket and studs - $500 ex USA BOV - $50 2nd hand Wastegate - incorporated into turbo, or else $200 turbo manifold and exhaust - at least $1000, unless you can weld Bigger injectors $250 (if you're lucky) Thats +/- $3000, and you haven't bought EFI yet, and really you should get adjustable boost, a couple of gauges, a new clutch/pressure plate, and dyno time, plus labour to install it all if you can't... Easily another $3k (assuming $2500 fitted and tuned for ECU - DIY using MegaSquirt is much much cheaper). Now scroll up the page to mops' last post and click on his turbo build in his sig. He is doing it right. Read his build and understand why its quite a big undertaking (unless you've already got the skills).

<Devils advocate> So why would BMW recommend it? </Devils advocate> I agree with you, by the way.

Its basically Castrol RS 10W60, but with BMW stamped on it.

Give him negative feedback. Fair enough being f**cked around on something cheap and easy to relist but not on a car...

At a higher price than the last "sale" price too. Togate - would you actually accept $5500?

Love the hot rod engine bay (no wires etc).

Kind of - its a smorgesboard of parts that you need to hunt down though, but nothing tricky to get them in. There is a thread or two on it: http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=14851 Basically cheapest way is E36 front struts with offset rear bushes for the front control arms and you should convert to adjustable strut tops (with a cert, but engine transplant will need anyway) to get enough camber. A spacer between the strut and the hub carrier will do the same job but may or may not cause clearance issues. Rear is easier - 318ti trailing arms, but they aren't a brake upgrade really. It's not quite that simple, but there are various guides out there which list the parts in more details.

Hazmobile in Auckland (drop off your stuff 4x per year) if your local garage is rude about it. http://www.hazmobile.govt.nz/ Completely useless website though - I suggest you ring your local council (if you're in Aucks).

You could try "Mount Shop Ltd" (white pages) if you don't want OEM.

LOL @ the primered Laurel parked backwards in the background. Nice drift ow.

That'll be the retail price, yes. Ring more BNTs until you find one that gives you a discount, LOL.

Do a 1JZ - lighter. Adequate (LOL @ 300hp+ being "adequate") power.

Basically what JiB says - the cost from Stocks was over the $3k level for my 2002 (basically same parts as an e30) without rear springs as I reused what I had. Yes, I paid for labour, but only for strut disassembly and having the perches welded on. JiB will still need the perches welded onto his struts. Despite this, GC is still cheaper by approx $400-500 AND (for an E30) comes with an adjustable rear perch and reinforced shock mounts. It's possible you did better than this because of BMW Series pricing, or maybe just not comparing apples to apples. Based on what I paid at Stocks, there is no way the parts would be <$3k.

Other than to raise the car the Ireland camber adjuster does the job at the rear. At the front, do you have the M3 offset bushes? They actually reduce camber very slightly, but add caster (sometimes called dynamic camber). It's waaaay cheaper to get them over from Ground Gontrol - as much as I like to support NZ companies, GC is really cheap for their off the shelf stuff.

www.bmw2002.com or www.turnermotorsport.com have complete solutions. For the front, you can get camber plates or fixed camber adjusters but they don't give much. Getting offset E30 M3 top mounts helps, and getting the M3 style front lower arm's offset rear mount bushing helps castor a lot (BNT has Noltec ones for cheap). Decent camber adjustment (more than 2 deg) really needs smaller diameters springs (ie coilovers) so the camber plate can move the top of the strut over far enough without the hitting the tower. Cheapest option unless you are good with fab and creative is a kit from Ground Control in the USA. Rear is easy - just lower it and you'll have camber at the rear, but Ireland have adjustable camber/toe stuff which can be welded onto your rear subframe.

Motul 4100T was recommended to me (its a 15W50). BMW reckons you should use Castol RS 10W60 (or their own equivalent of it). I reckon I have no idea of what to use, but I definitely plan on changing it regularly (every 5k).

You'll see I've asked over on e30tech.com for opinions on which block there. The weight difference appears to be approx 7kg, which is meaningful. As we all know, the 2002 block is good for ~1300-1500hp, but how strong the 318i block is I am not so sure.