CamB

Ironically, the NZHondas forum is at least as, if not more, critical than BimmerSport of: - chrome wheels - clear tail lights - speeding on the street.

Fair enough bagging the stereotype, but BMWs have the same image problem - its a noisy/showy few who create the stereotype. It was my daily car - about 1,000km/month, almost all around town. (edit) Yes, FWD and lots of power, no FWD not an issue - it had a factory torsen style LSD - and it put the power down very well unless you were a munt. I've actually sold it (to buy the M3) - It was a '94 EG hatch, Type S Prelude engine (220hp stock) and Prelude (large) front brakes, full coilover suspension with cert and upgraded sway bars. It handled like a go-cart and was faster than most cars I've been in. The M3s quicker, but only once it hits its stride (ie 4k and up). The Civic had a better torque/weight ratio. Unfortunately I can't find the scan of the dyno graph. It was custom tuned (it had a Link) and the VTEC was set about 4800rpm which is low enough it engaged smoothly (factory engagement is too high, but it "feels" fast). Imagine a torquey 2.2 litre engine making maximum power at 5500rpm which clicked over to a race engine making power from 5000-7500rpm. It feels like the double VANOS on the M3 - power everywhere. Actually I've hunted around and found it. Dyno shows: - 35kW at 2000rpm - 55kW at 3000rpm - 75kW at 4000rpm - 100kW at 5000rpm (post VTEC) - 125kW at 6000rpm - 139kW at 6900rpm Its basically a straight line from 2000-7000rpm - it doesn't tail off until after 6,000rpm, all in a car weighing about 1050kg. Reading the graph, torque is between 70 and 80kg/m from 2,000-5,000rpm, and 80kg-90kg/m from 5000-7000rpm (ie VTEC).

So you would have been very confused by my Civic then? Prelude H22A 2.2 litre engine in a '94 Civic - 140kW at the wheels, lighter than an E30, torquier than a 325i and shorter gearing. I reckon Hondas are great - you can get a second hand, 100hp/litre engine for about $1,000, and which can stand being thrashed.

I've seen an M323i which had a dogleg box. Not sure if it had an LSD. It was NZ new, and approx 1985.

Yeah - funnily enough given a couple of the posts above, Hans Rey is known as Hans "No Way" Rey.

$400 for a sensor? New cars suck...

You'll still have most of a weekend of swearing and frsutration, LOL. I reckon you should undo the bolts on the half-shafts while the subframe is on the car, so you can use the handbrake to hold them still. Don't forget to undo the speed sensor wire from the diff. And it's worthwhile getting PB Blaster or equivalent and spraying it on everything you want to remove a day or so before you attack it with the tools.

Interested in just selling the swaybars?

Probably, but no real point coz M10 will more cheaply turbo up than M42. The factory (and Mike Delmont) have a long history of making stupid power out of them.

I TOTALLY agree. My engine is a factory tii replacement engine which hasn't done that many km (maybe 10,000km total - I've done about 5k). It's been set up on the dyno (Hi Velocity) and has a whole 102hp at the wheels, which is not really 130hp rated. I meant to imply that the mods required to the 2002 to make it handle the power are pretty minimal. An M42 will have more power, be more refined, and run better when cold (actually mine's pretty good). It might even have better fuel economy (again, mine is good). The issue for me is that a meaningful increase in power (ie to 150hp plus) is sort of a minimum of $6-8k. <Butchery warning> I actually contemplated putting a Toyota 3SGE with a supra box in - 2 litres, 160hp plus, strong gearbox, cheap engine, and with exhaust on LHS of the engine, easy headers ---> the only issue is that I'd never be able to find a class to race in</butchery> <2nd butchery warning>If I was in the UK I'd stick a Vauxhall XE engine in for the same reason</butchery>

I'm actually worried that 1" will be too big... Based on the ATE catalogue, the 750 one is only 2 ports, which means a slightly rangi arrangement with a splitter is needed. It's not actually dodgy, it's just that generally modifying the brake pipes seems to be frowned on, plus its hard work and I've lent someone my brake flaring tool and they haven't given it back yet...

An M42 is only slightly more horsepower than a 2002tii, so basically the tii mods would be good enough: - reinforced (boxed) rear trailing arms - the front struts are slightly heaver, although I wouldn't have thought this was an issue - 4 pot calipers I think I think those were the main changes. In addition: - you'll need to sort out some sort of vented brakes if you plan on going fast - I've got tii calipers with a spacer (makes them the same as - I think - early 5 series brakes) with e21 4 stud rotors - the suspension could do with an upgrade. Basically you'd be doing the stuff that people normally do to a 2002 when they make it faster - generally e30 stuff doesn't fit (although username 2002 in Pukekohe has grafted E30 stuff in). Try www.bmw2002.com and see the parts offered (eg brake kits, suspension in the tech section, etc). My biggest recommendation would be to get a shorter ratio diff, with LSD if you're getting serious since they spin the inside rear wheel when you start stiffening them up. Assuming you sort out engine and gearbox mount, a custom propshaft (probably), a custom exhaust and other piping, and convert to an EFI fuel pump (google for 2002 and megasquirt to find options on this) ... then it should be "easy". Speedo drive might be an issue - an electronic speedo is probably less effort.

I saw it - looked nasty, both off the side of the back straight and back in the pits. I believe its the only race all season (I'm in AES/Tadezone) in which I've beaten your Dad Would be good to see him back on track asap.

Nah, no ABS.

Yeah, around $250-300 is the price I'd dug up for braided lines, probably not far off new factory lines. Hybrid - your setup rules but is beyond the needs of the car. Thanks for the input so far guys. What I'm really looking for is to mirror my previous experience: - Peugeot 205gti - slapped in a 306 m/c which came free with a set of front brakes - Honda EG civic with prelude brakes - prelude 1" m/c and booster was $80. ie, sub $100 is good. It's only a second-hand m/c. I reckon a 23.81mm e28 or e24 one might work, and is going to be easier to find than the 750i one. There's potentially a wee bit of an issue with 3 outlet vs 2 outlet, but nothing I might not have bodged I mean worked around before.

Mean - how many psi did that?

OK, I checked. The pedal is close enough to "normal" despite the old-as std hoses. Price is a barrier to replacing the hoses "just in case" it helps. But normal isn't good enough. A larger m/c would improve feel - if you need to brake hard (its for a track car) it's nice to be able to push the pedal hard... So... does anyone know what fits?

Really just looking for experience and/or opinions on ways to firm up the pedal on a pre FL 325i E30. It's got stock pads and rotors, with decent but not race fluid. I've only driven a couple of E30s and the pedal feels about normal, but that's, IMHO, a bit crap compared to most cars so... 1) Who has tried braided hoses and can give an opinion on how they compare to old-as standard hoses, as a standalone change (ie not part of upgrading everything and changing old fluid to new)? 2) Has anyone tried a different master cylinder? It seems from a little internet research the m/c could only be a 20.64mm, so seems to me about a 23mm cylinder would firm things up nicely. I've upgraded the m/c on other cars and it makes a huge difference, but I've had to do it in the past when the calipers have been changed and the pedal has been soft afterwards as the m/c is undersized. In the absence of experience with either of the above, opinions welcome In particular, keen to find out what m/c might work with the booster. M/c on the car has 3 outlets. (edit - bonus points if anyone is aware of a m/c upgrade for my 2002)

Definitely make sure you complain.

I didn't go and see it. My car is not without faults, but it is pretty good. There're are few things I need to spend some money on.

Yeah it is that one - the dude who's sold it to me has gone on holiday I think and forgotten to remove it. I can assure you its sold - it's in my driveway with my name on the ownership and I paid for it. Geez, it better be mine, LOL.

Yep - I made the call to the dealer yesterday and can confirm those prices. B'stards.

Thanks guys. I was planning on finding one second hand - BMW want too much money (largely I suspect because they air freight it as well as putting on their big bad markup). Part of the reason for asking is that all the strut braces I've seen are cheesy chinese ones - maybe they're ok but they sure look flimsy... Will put up pics once it's clean etc - it's the Byzanz sedan on Trade Me.

So, I've acquired an E36 M3 Evo, and already can't leave it alone, LOL. I'm wondering about putting in a strut brace (seemingly difficult to find a decent one), or a x-brace, which is apparently a factory fitted part on convertibles and Z3, under the front subframe. so a couple of questions: - has anyone ever fitted the x-brace to a coupe or sedan? - does the x-brace help - I assume yes or they wouldn't have bothered on the open topped models? - is a strut brace worthwhile?

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