bmpower

Who said i wasn't in that category? The cuts are to my benefit. I am just making a simple observation that its just the same old story, rich get richer, poor stay the same or get poorer. Its not helping the people it needs to.

Still a case of the rich getting richer - surprise surprise the biggest drop is the over $70,000 bracket getting a 5% drop, when the $14,000 and under get a 2.5% drop. With GST factored in if you earn under 14k nothing changes, if you earn up to 48k your 1% better off, if you earn up to 70k your 0.5% better off and if you earn 70k and up your 2.5% better off. See a common trend there.....

Thanks Mark, I know where your coming from, however when was the last time you saw a sub 100,000km manual e36 on trademe for 10k or under? Also this is an m52 not an m50 which is a big plus point imo. I know what you saying re. the m3's and its a fair point, however most of the cheaper ones are higher kms, and who wants to pay servicing on a high km 'm' motor? Looking at whats on there, and the condition etc etc i feel the price i have is justified - however as stated i'm happy to look at serious offers. I am fully aware that like anything for sale, its only worth what someone is willing to pay! Also bear in mind that there are no more e36's coming into the country because of the emmisions laws - so no more low km import ones! This car has a genuine 72kms, is a motorsport, a coupe and obviously the best point - 3 pedals manual! Unless there are loads of other low km e36's hiding away, this in theory would be hard to replace. There must be someone out there after a nice manual e36 coupe!!!!

Relisted: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-291416447.htm Realistic offers are welcome. Took the car for a drive over the 'rapa on the weekend and to be honest i don't really want to sell it, drives so well in manual! But another x2 projects lies patiently waiting.... Most recent work (within the last 6 weeks) included oil (magnatec) & filter (oem) change, new control arms - ball joints were shot and i'd rather replace the whole arm! And also put urethane offset rear control arm bushes in at the same time. K & N induction kit hasn't even done 1000kms, and neither has the new clutch! Rubber is only 5,000kms old too! Thanks. Kerry.

Little bit harsh - however the latter offer sounds like a good deal to me. You can't drive a car with 3 wheels and you can't drive a car that doesn't go. Lose the wheels and have a car that drives!!

Price? How much for the skirts? Thanks.

Haha whilst i would love to Nath - i have enough problems with the 3 e30's i have already!! Although i do need an LSD....

Bump!! Will consider offers - PM me! Thanks.

The side and curtain airbags have gone off - see the big white deflated airbags hanging down. Got nothing to do with angle, its about force and setting off the various sensors. Not enough frontal impact to set off front airbags, but side/curtain ones have been triggered..

pics of the cage?

There is ED1RTY which was ashkans, originally 320i, and there is EDIRTY on a red plate in upper hutt which was a 323i. Both are converted to manual and 2.5L - 2 diff cars!

Alpina Tach Strip Order List 1: Nick021 2: ethirty320 3: APT - ANDREW 4: BMPower 5: 6: 7: 8: 9: 10: I'll put money in Wed. Cheers!

Haha sweet - i didn't think there would/could be too many issues but its always good to ask first just incase! Better start a project thread i guess! Gonna be a long slow process!

Awesome, thanks Mr Fox!! Can anyone think of anything i may by forgetting or not considering? Research, Research, Research...!!!

Can anyone tell me if i need to change the subframe from the m40 fl to fit the m20 prefl? Do i need to change engine mount arms? Or can i just change the engine mounts to m20 ones?

I've got a K&N 57i induction kit - pretty good all round kit, sound and throttle respone better, maybe even a tiny little bit more power! The number for a 323i/328i is 57i-1001. You can get them from the States or the UK. There is a pic of it in my car on my Trademe auction http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-287950008.htm (shameless plug...)

Typical TradeMe - get one idiot ask a dumb question and the rest of the sheep line up to do the same. It is a great car, don't really want to sell it but a new project needs paying for! You always need to take a punt first time out - hence 12k not 14k to bimmersporters. Its still a youngin with 72,000kms and manual etc etc. Feel free to PM me sensible offers.

So do Mot 1.1 and Mot 1.3 use the same plug? The current prefl m20 2.5 engine and loom which will be used will be Mot 1.1 and the body loom which will be used will be from a fl m20 325i which should be Mot 1.3 If Mot 1.1 & !.3 use different plug do i just need to get the engine loom one changed to fit? ie is it that easy?

I have finally made the hard decision to sell my baby - all details are on the trademe ad. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...990&ed=true Price on trademe auction or pm me a serious offer. Thanks. edit for relist

Can you elaborate on this? Doesn't mean a thing to me at the moment!!

1986 325i 4DR Manual Owned for 12-18mths i think.... Done approx 12,000km The following in no particular order are problems i've had and replacements and changes the car has gone through.... At the same time i was doin alot on my e36 as well!! * Changed Water Pump, Tensioner, Cam Belt, P/Steering Belt, Fan Belt, A/C Belt * 4x Oil changes to date with magnatec & OEM filter * On 2nd set of OEM Plugs * On 3rd Radiator, after fan destroying 1st, rock at manfield taking the 2nd along with a fan blade * Replaced Fan (above) * On 3rd set of engine mounts * Changed Geabox mounts * Changed sway bar bushes, Changed sway bar & bushes again * New control arms x 2 * New sway bar links, new sway bar link bushes * Approx 3 complete coolant changes * Changed Rear wheel bearings * Changed Discs all round * On 3rd set of front and 2nd set of rear pads * New Accelerator cable * New intake elbow * New fuel filter * Tappets done * Headers installed then rest of exhaust made and installed * Facelift headlights installed * Rust in left and right rear taillights fixed * Rust in roof fixed * Rust in sunroof fixed (now back with avengence!) * Rust in left and right sils fixed * Rust the size of 2 fists in firewall fixed * Left rear trailing arm changed (original one would release the axle even with a 60ton press) * A/C Pump removed * Numerous sets of wheels/bodykits on and off the car * Front Strut bar installed * New front and rear strut bars installed * H & R springs installed * Orininal shocks all round replaced with KYB's * Front shocks changed for koni adj * Snapped strut top bolt in half - then replaced * Rear shocks reaplaced with Koni Adj * Rear subframe bushes done * Rear trailing arm bushes done * Carbon shielded pod installed * Offset control arm bushes installed * Camber plates installed in front * Front Left wheel came off after the bolts came undone - split newly painted front bumper and disc and new control arm hit the deck! * Wiper blades replaced * Gearknob replaced * Fog lights stopped working, so removed * Bonnet gas strut changed (poked again!) * Hit by dickhead in BP, front right fender fixed and painted (bad colour match) * Mtech1, Mtech 2, Alpina, Standard spoilers used at various times * Mtech 1 rear on, then off again * Electric fan installed after losing a radiator to the viscous one * New rear top shock mounts * Various bulbs changed * Fuses changed * Tow bar removed * Interior swap for recaros * A/C pipe re-routed due to hitting headers * New exhaust heat shields * Failed a few wofs and had to fix things to get them * On 2nd replacement tie rod end right side, 1st on left but needs doing again * Still after changing everything cannot fix the 'clunk' in the rear at each gearchange!! There are alot of things i'm forgetting but you get the idea! Its a way of life....! After all of the above (excluding camber plates, rear shocks and mounts) i finally achieved a 1min25sec at manfield - something people said would never happen. After completing that lap it made me think - was it worth it? Yes it was! All the hours and hours and $$$ spent on it! The blood, the sweat, the tears, the no sleep, the late nights, the early mornings, the car towings, and the abuse the car recieved! Stick with it mate - you'll regret selling it! Get it on the track and have some fun! You know it makes sense!

Correct - the car i have has no loom whatsoever at the moment. I'm told i'm best to put a fl 6cyl one back in with fl 6cyl speedo cluster. Is there anything else i need to take into consideration? Bearing in mind i'm a noob as far as what i'm about to do! Are there any issues that would arise from having a fl body loom and prefl engine loom - provided they are both for m20 6cyl?

Haven't checked fuel pump yet (some fl 318i's have external pumps so i'm told) headlight/taillight/elec windows/centrel lock are irrelevant - the plan is to install a fl 325i body loom with speedo, not my prefl loom as i want the entire speedo to work properly rather than loosing speedo/rev counter etc. Front subframe looks similar, just engine mounts are different i think? Rear axles will prob be changed, as they are stronger in the 2.5. dash wiring will be from fl with fl speedo. engine loom with be prefl loom/comp

Ok so looking for some more insight into this... I want to use a fl shell as my new race car, ie cage it etc. I know my engine and gbox are pretty good in the current prefl car and want to put them into the new shell with everything working fine. I want to get my research done and out the way before i start spending money and encountering problems. I need the e30 guru's to help with advice please....?? Plan: Swap over engine, gearbox, engine loom, suspension from my prefl 325i m20 4dr into a fl 318i m40 2dr Vehicles: 1986 325i Mot 1.1 Manual (factory, so g260?) 1990 318i gutted (no wiring, gbox, engine) with disc rear end & pedal box What i've been told to make it work: I need to install a fl 2dr 6cl body loom and speedo into the fl car I need to bring the engine loom/computer from the prefl to the fl If i do the above everything should work fine What i need to know: If the above is correct? Will there be anything else i need to change ie. front subframe, other wiring etc? Anything else that i haven't though of or shouldconsider/think about Are all suspension components bolt in bolt out from prefl 4dr to fl 2dr Is anything not bolt out bolt in prefl 4dr to fl 2dr Does the medium case diff bolt straight into the fl 318i subframe? Thanks!!!

I have a good 4.1 diff with what looks to be a new/near new rubber hanger bush. PM me if interested!