320guy

Yep, they are pretty bright, on E30's I know they are anyway. Try it at night time some time, when theres no one behind you, turn them on and look back, they light up the road and all the road signs. Alot brighter than brake lights.

I turn my rear fogs on at night if someone is tail gating me, or behind me with their highs on. Every time ive done it they have backed off almost straight away or dipped their lights

Chip is a 27C256, $15 at jaycar.

Supposed to drill big holes. It will give it more induction noise, although it will suck in hotter air, not that you would notice any difference anyway.

Well, depending what parts it has. But id say if had the lsd, recaro leathers or whatever. If it dosent have the tinted windows i wouldnt be that fussed.

Well yeah, if someone sticks the M badge on their 316 or 318 etc thats not right. But a car that has all/most the motorsport parts added to it, i would consider it motorsport, although not genuine.

wut haz i found here? http://www.vacmotorsports.com/cgi-bin/view....pl?item_id=445

There not that hard to get to, just the torx ones are easy to round off if you dont have the proper tool. We couldnt get the proper torx socket so said f**k it, and used a single hex socket, got all of them out except the top left bolt rounded off. Had to drop the whole subframe and engine to get to it with a grinder and cut if off. Are they strong enough without the top gb bolts?

There was no way we were going to get the motronic 1.3 plug through marks firewall without destroying the plug or cutting the hole bigger, which originally had motronic 1.0.

mark247 might have one, he does have a spare ecu, not sure if its the right one though... Send him a pm.

You mean, is like calling someone a noob like calling a guy a dick? No its not, it was first used in computer gaming, where someone new to a game was called a "noob", "newbie" etc. I didnt realise you were female, so I dont expect you to know as much as a guy. I just found it ironic for you to call the bmw engineers stupid for using iron for the exhaust manifold when you obviuosly didnt know much about it yourself. I dont know much either, but im learning new stuff every day. Chur.

Fuel rail is also different between pre face lift and face lift engines. With the pre face lift engine and face lift loom, you have to cut a piece out of the injector harness as the fuel return on the pre face lift is in a diffterent posistion. Pre face lift has toothed flywheel (one or two teeth acutally). Face lift engine has toothed crank pully on the front (around 60 teeth)

Its basic math dude 160 - 60 = 100

Im keen, be it rotorua or auckland.

What is this i see? More cast iron exhaust manifolds?!?!?! Stupid engineers!!

was me

Um, I think that you will find that almost every car has an iron exhaust manifold. Douche.

I would rather do 5 pedal boxes than have one of the top torx gearbox bolts round off.

Haynes is crap, get the bently manual.

Try replacing it, its pretty easy to replace. Or pull the vacuum line off that goes to the FPR, and see if theres petrol in there. If there is the diaphram in the FPR is stuffed.

Yep, sure do. What part of the loom do you want the diagram for?

Well it will only flow as much as the smallest part allows, once you replace with the m30 afm, the throttle body is the next thing restricting flow. Maybe thats why you didnt see much increase. You can put the m30 afm on, and put the electronics from your original afm so you retain the original adjustments. keh, bye.

You got the external torx sockets? You can use normal sockets, but its easy to round off the hex ones, and they are a c**t to get out once they have been rounded off, especially if they are the top bolts.

IMO, dont bother with the iridium plugs. K & N filter panel is alright, not the ricey pod filter though.

Hrrm, 1.0 crank wheel = smooth. 1.1 and 1.3 = toothed. 1.0 has the sensors in the gearbox. 1.1 and 1.3 has them on the front of the crank with the toothed wheel. 1.1 to 1.3 swap is easy, just replace the ecu with a 1.3 unit. 1.0 to 1.3 is a bit different, done it just last weekend. You need to replace the entire engine loom, pull the sensors out of the gearbox, pull the front wheel off the crank and replace with a toothed one (remove radiator, clutch fan, and front pulley, removed water pump pulley, now the old wheel should pull off and you can put the new toothed one on). the oil level sensor has diffenrnt plug, you can either cut the old plug off the loom and put the other one on or replace the sensor with a newer one. at the starter motor their is a extra wire that isnt used. You will need the 6th spark plug wire off a motronic 1.1 or 1.3 as it has a sensor on it. The main engine harness plug / fusebox plug will go straight in, the engine side has more pins, but it all works. Thats all for a 1.0 to 1.3 swap, might help you out. If you want any wiring diagrams for 1.1 / 1.3 let me know.