zenetti

^ exactly what he said

Thanks for the vote of confidence Nick, it is always great to get positive feedback from fellow members Cloud - we have a few options in stock, check out our website or pop in and see us cheers

lots and lots and lots........................................ and lots more

They have changed websites - not sure on the address though sorry. What are youtrying to calculate?

Nice looking E36 - reminds me of one of my old ones. Welcome to the forum

^ so does driving to the conditions

$750 to BS members

$795 for a set of 4 for Bimmersport members!

what about something a little more subtle 16x7.5 ET15

I am pretty sure it is a very retro wheel ( early 90's) and apparantly massive in Japan I did say there were outrageous!

Keep perservering Andy. Just like Mainland cheese........... Good things take time If it was me I would be prioritising what needs to be done. eg 1 get it running 2 sort out the suspension 3 wheels etc etc etc I am sure you wil get it all done and dusted and running mint, sometimes however it is easier to take something to the experts to get it done properly even though it may cost more in the short run. At least you have the peace of mind of knowing that it has been done properly and professionally. I look forward to (eventually ) seeing the finished product

We have just landed a few staggered sets of these. Specs are 16x7.5 ET15 16x9 ET12 I can't wait for the comments

We have just landed some 19x9 19x10's that will look awesome on your E65

Grant does everything from insurance work to custom steel widebody kits. He did Vick's crazy widebody 350z. I can vouch personally that is standard of work is top notch.

I am pretty sure these are finally on the water, so they should be here in about 3 weeks time (fingers crossed)

Grant defintiely is a great guy and his standard of work is excellent. We send quite a bit of work his way ( he is just around the corner from us)

Back at work on Monday, but am not allowed to do anything physical at work for at least the next month

This gets to me as well. 9 times out of 10 up here they are out of paper so they don't work. I hate to say it but it is always at the service stations where are certain ethnicity work/manage. I had a 'discussion' just the other day with a staff member (generation me) asking why they couldn't change the paper or at least make sure that the swipe is working as fuelcard holders are their most valuable customers (we can't go anywhere else) and it really is a waste of time having to go in show them the card, go back out and fill up, and then go back in to pay. I got a shrug of the shoulders and a blank expression back on his face. In reality he couldn't be bothered getting up from behind the counter and changing the paper roll.

Thanks for all the wishes guys. I have finally been diagnosed with a relapse of Glandular Fever. I am back to the doctor tomorrow to find out when I can go back to work. To tell you the truth I am sick of bl*#dy blood tests!

Hi guys and gals I have somehow contracted a viral infection in my liver and have been told to take a minimum of 2 weeks off work. No one can figure out how I got it or where it came from (I don't drink BTW), luckily it is not too serious and I just have to rest. I should still be answer to any questions you have and can still price up any bits and pieces you may need ( Internet FTW). I will probably also be mooching around the forums a lot more as I will have nothing better to do. Cheers Johno

Any spacer needs to be certified - period. If you run a slip on spacer it must be hubcentric and be attached to the wheel before it can be certed. A bolt-on adaptor must also be hubcentric and needs to be certified. If you run a slip on spacer and the car is not certed you will void your insurance. One of the major requirements of 99% of insurance co's is having a car that is up to WOF level, and technically speaking a car that is not certed should not have a WOF. Your biggest problem I can see is running 245/40/18's. This tyre is too tall and too wide for the front of your car. Whoever sold you the 245's should have been aware of this, unless you specifically asked for them. Personally I would never run a 9" wide wheel ont he front of an E36. On the rear yes but not the front. I have run 8.5's at 45ET on the front of my E36 previously with 225/40/18's and never had any issues. If it was me I would be going back to the tyre shop to change the tyres to 225's. They will be slightly stretched but it should solve your problems without having to change your steering lock. Good luck getting it sorted

Nath, I actually never saw the wheels, I was just told they were basketweaves. I hope you have a good poker face otherwise it would have been priceless to see the look on your face If you ever decide to sell them again I want half the profit

This one was sold to an overseas buyer a few moths ago

Fixed It all reaaly comes down to how well the clear coat is applied as well. I hav eseen some wheels that still look like new after 5 years. Conversely I have also seen some that are poo after 6 months.

If you want them super super shiny then basically it takes a lot of elbow grease with something like autosol or similar. After that apply a wax to give it some form of protectant and invest in a set of low dust brake pads. Expect to be cleaning them weekly still as even road grime will make them dull. However if you get the preparation right the weeekly cleaning shouldn't be so bad. Clear coating still requires cleaning because if you leave them alone the dirt and moisture still seeps in causing the crazy cracking. I would suggest getting the lips diamond polished and then clear coating them. It really is the best of both worlds and all you have to do to keep them looking good is wash them regularly with a sponge and car wash. Treat the clear coat like you treat your car paint. We have customers who have wheels that are coming up 3 years old and still look like new because they clean them religioulsy! Edited: just for Apex