QuickSilver

Ray, saving the world one car part at a time! Good on ya Ray! Thanks in general from me too! Alex.

Lol! Sounds good! We have a gramaphone at home, its awesome! Its so crazy listening to it, like travelling back through a time warp.

I was thinking of adding one of these into my e30 since I have a cooler lying around, are these worthwile? Do they do they help at all?

x 10 million.

hahahaha thats awesome, nice !

I put alot of items are $1 res on trademe, they almost ALWAYS sell and I always seem to get a decent price,

This morning the car was fine, it must have been either the AFM or the fuel pressure, I did have a look inside my old fuel pressure reg and it was a bit funny looking inside compared to the better one. Thanks Glenn you were spot on! I really appreciate the help!!!! Alex.

Botanymotorworx. Glenn knows his stuff. Take it there.

It wasnt me who replaced the dizzy/rotor mine look really good, points are still nice and thick and I cant see any wear on the rotor, Ive put on my spare (working) afm in and replaced the fuel pressure reg with a good condition one I was planning to put in anyway, so tomorrow morning I will see how this goes. I will check my dizzy and rotor again tomorrow. How likely is it that it would be the dizzy? Can they just randomly start to fail? Cheers, Alex.

A thats a great idea I shall go and try that right now.

Thanks Glenn I will, I would have to wait until its stone cold again though wouldnt I? Does this sound fuel related or air/vaccuum or thermal?

Hello Ladies and Gentlemen. Car: 1987 e30 320i Manual 4 door Problem: This began yesterday morning, (bearing in mind not a single problem on sunday) In the morning when I went to start my car it had difficulty starting, it would turn and slightly catch and keep turning, eventually it sparked into life, so I dismissed this and thought it was due to it being very cold. Upon reaching the first hill, changing down into second to go up the hill there is absolutely no power, I put my foot down and it just splutters, the only way to describe it is a combination of acceleration and stalling fighting between themselves, the car does not die but just struggles to accelerate. I pull over to see whats goin on, Idle is fine, but when I blip the throttle (in neutral) the car almost dies and then revs, decide to drive home to be safe, and on the way this totally dissappears and the car drives as if nothing had happend all morning. So I risk driving to where I was going, no problems, drove back, no problems, drove about 4 hours later, no problems. This morning, starts fine, but then this whole thing repeats itself, and then goes away again. What the hell is going on!? My initial thought was fuel starvation, this would explain the difficulty to start yesterday morning and the running, I cant however figure out why it would go away, and then the car started fine this morning. Is this a fuel pump( s ) issue, I know they have an external and an internal one. NOTE: Recent repairs/work I have carried out, has been new Idle control unit and a few new hoses, and I cleaned the throttle body and set the TPS correctly. This was about a week ago and I havn't had any problems since. Until now that is. Has anyone got any clues as to what could be causing this? I need to fix this asap as this is my daily car. ANY help appreciated! THanks, Alex.

Rust sucks, but thats a good DIY right there, just outta curiosity, how much did the mig welder set you back to hire? What did it come with?

Redline oil you can pickup from BNT each product varies in price, I use a a redline fully synthetic ATF oil in mine, the top bung can be a bitch you ideally need two people, a squeeze bottle, and a long clear tube, have one person hold the tube in the side of the gearbox, and the other person stand next to the car and squeeze the fluid in.

Welcome silver indeed does look good on bmws! Nice e36 I quite like it Alex.

There is no E30 under the sun that has been treated as well as this one, its totally immaculate in almost every way, if I had the money I'd snap this up and keep it for myself. Good luck with the sale buddy, That silver e30 aint bad either Cheers, Alex.

Wow congrats thats awesome, I had a look at that on trademe as well and it definately looked to be a good buy, well done, have fun

No offense taken, so far I have only bought one of the valves (on came ON the car, and another I picked up in a pack of parts), at a good cost, so far I have spent no where near the amount it would have cost for a new one, I have tested the one I am about to chuck into the car and it seems to be working, will put this in before I look into replacing with the electronic system, I appreciate all the help very much, cheers. Thanks Glenn, will put this valve in, in the next day or so, just checked my thermostat and gave it a good clean and the radiator a good flush so hopefully this should remedy the problem. Cheers, Alex

Im aware what would fix my idle but I am currently fitting my THIRD idle control unit, and I know that the problem would be sorted by a fitting a good one and adjusting it properly, but im sorry I refuse to spend in excess of $350 on a NEW idle control unit that is out dated now and if there is a better option I will go with that, thanks for the info, all second hand units seem to have died years ago. Ducatiss - Yeah the later model it would seem does have a temp sensor but I think the motronic b20 is just plugged into a 12+, this seems like the dream fix for these stupid wax filled valves, I will look into it more and will let you know how/if it works, Bradd (Ven) - I had another read and it would seem it has to be one from the motronic b20s otherwise its different, will talk to Ray about getting one and trying it out. No one can confirm if the old style H valve has to open or close fully at any point or just partially? Thanks again, Alex.

Car looks fantastic but the sticker has got to go lol.

Now maybe he'll look where he's going haha

Hey everyone, I have a few questions about my IDLE which is after all this time is not perfect, my current idle control valve (the H wax filled one) is stuffed, I have a spare which seems in better condition, but I cant remember if the valve is supposed to fully open, or fully close when hot/cold, I have tested it, there is movement with the valve, but like I said, I don't know if its supposed to fully open or closed at any point, or just opens bigger or smaller. Can anybody clarify? Next is the option of swapping to the electronic system, I was reading up that this is easy enough and a good solution as every H valve in the world seems to be stuffed, but I was curious about this, the book I was reading mentions that you can just grab the lot off a motronic m20b20 and pull out the old, and replace with the new, and wire up the ICV to a 12+ ignition source. Has anyone done this? I was looking at an m20b25 (prefacelift) one of these and the connector plug (to the ICV) has 3 pins, does this mean I cant just connect it to a 12+? Are the b25 versions different to the b20? And also, is it different from FL vs P/FL? Any info always appreciated! Cheers, Alex.

Holy moly thats some good driving right there!

Welcome, those are some good lookin cars!

Because their badass!!!!