QuickSilver

Note sure what your asking? Or just a general statement, either way, good work. With the line from master/slave cylinder almost any hard metal line will work, brake lines work too and their easy to get made up, and cheap.

The recovery by the driver in the yellow one was pretty damn spectacular. The audience seems to have a deathwish.

Welcome, nice e24, their fun cars!

Not quite the same issue, mine just seems to do it when cold, after a while it regains pressure and goes back to normal, when its not normal the only thing thats needed is a deeper/harder push on the pedal, but the braking still works fine, just more effort required, im checking it out today/tomorrow.

Ok yeah I understand, I guess I will have to go by process if elimination, if I had the time I would pop out but its a bit of a drive for me, thanks for your help! Alex.

Like sands through the hour glass, these are the bmw's of our lives.

Do it x 10. thats badass.

That would explain both issues! Is there any easy way to test for a vacuum leak? Ill replace them just to be safe anyway. Thanks a million Glenn!

Idle now that you mention it sometimes revs a little high but not for too long, and occasionally seems to hunt for about 50 - 80 rpm up and down at idle, is this a symptom? Do you mean the vacuum lines that connect to the intake manifold and to the booster?

Car: 1987 Pre-face lift E30 320i 4 door 5 speed manual. Problem: The brakes in the morning don't seem to have as much pressure as normal, this has happened twice now, not on a regular basis, the last time was about 3 weeks ago, and then again this morning, the pedal would need to pushed much further down to have the same effect as it would normally have, they don't seem to be weaker, but just need to push much further. After driving a while, pressure will return and there wont be any problem, and if left parked for a while, it will remain the same, and also would be fine the next day. The last time this happened it was colder than usual in the morning, I don't know if this will attribute to anything. Checked: I have checked the fluid level and cant see a noticeable drop which would rule out a leak of some sort? And if there was a fluid leak I'm sure my brakes would fail completely, The other thing I thought it may be is old fluid, its not dis-colored or anything but I know that old fluid can lose pressure, does this sound like it could be causing it? Recent wok done: The only thing that I have done in the last month that could POSSIBLY is when I replaced my ICV, as I had to disconnect the vacuum lines that run to the brake booster from the intake manifold, although I don't think that this would cause this problem. Any info would be hugely appreciated, let me know if there is any additional info needed. Thanks Alex.

I've gotten lost also this is what I thought would be the case too,

unless i've missed it, was your light actually green? You mention orange and red alot. If it was green and your witness confirms it, then you have nothing to worry about, write them a letter, have you're witness sign it and they cant very well give you the ticket. Or do what was mentioned above with the insurance company.

K's have never been an issue with me unless something is suspicious ie, late model car ridiculous amount of k's or really early model car with astoundingly low k's. I always base my cars on condition, I dont look at the ODO and assume the car is not worth looking at just because the k's are what some people would consider "high". Im mainly talking about e30's here because I know what their like, running forever and all, I think alot of BMW's are the same. If the car is in good condition, body and engine wise, has a good history and has been regularily serviced then why not? The k's might be high but the car will be running better and be in better condition than the same model with low k's that has not been looked after as well. Plus, e30's are easy to chop and change around so if something went wrong its not a big fix anyway. My 2c.

There you have it, prices way cheaper than quoted, and if you do the work yourself you cut the end cost in half.

There are things you can do, and it will be cheaper, depending on what needs to be replaced in the power steering GOOD second hand parts will be fine for this and the chances of the same thing re-occuring will be minimal, the windscreen? There are plenty around, especially from Ray @ HellBM one of our forum sponsors. Brake lines are about $180 (lines + fitment) to get them replaced by a mechanic, im referring only to the front ones, (New obviously).

$1200 for the phone?! What the f**k? This is more than the parallel imported version cost a year ago!

All 325's moronic, 2 different versions. Preface lift Motronic 1.1 Face lift Motronic 1.3 (Jetronic is 320's and 318's (m10 atleast not sure about m40, note that later 320's were also equipped with motronic) Yours being pre facelift is Motronic 1.1, unless im missing something. Edit: Spelling

You mean rear windscreen? If so then the heater grills can act sort of as an aerial and can pick up a signal, maybe the aerial isnt ground or connected properly and like Kiwi said crossing over.

lovin the silver one, looks really really mint! good job.

I have one of them in my backyard

That looks like heaps of fun, the weather looked fantastic too, last time I was in the states I was able to go into fort Riley? I think it was, it was in Kansas, and have a look around at that, my uncle was in the military over there. Not quite as exciting as an air base though! Nice one with the hooters ladies haha,

Thanks Glenn for all the help you've provided!!!!

Nice touring Gus! How much do things like kits and gearboxes cost over there? Nice steering wheel I have the same one! Id always get confused with 4 horn buttons haha

Awesome thanks for that, had me worried lol.

Im just waiting for mine to arrive in the mail, if it doesent cover 320i's does that mean im not going to have any info on ljets? Or are 318's Ljet aswell?