charles28

Last week, replaced valve cover gasket, air filter, got new WOF. Tomorrow.. cars going in the NZhondas Trackday, I'm not expecting much, only going as I had already paid a few months ago and have now sold my Turbo CRX. I will chuck it into sports mode and just floor it I guess, will be the slowest car I've ever taken to a track day, but should still have some cornering fun.

SOLD! to me

Gave the car a good wash and polish with the Mothers 3 Step Process. Looks better in real life though. my camera is a bit average. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us

This is a worklog of my E39 528i Time to try out 3M's Headlight Restoration kit, as you can see in the next 2 pics, headlights are rather misty looking. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Tooks Required: (+ Masking Tape) Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us After an Hour on the left headlight (in real life it looks better then before, on here its hard to tell? Uploaded with ImageShack.us After 2.5 Hours, all Finished Uploaded with ImageShack.us Was it worth it? Well.. the result wasn't as good as I'd hoped for, but the headlights should be good enough now to pass the WOF, which was really the key thing I guess.

Still waiting for valve cover gasket and cam sensor to arrive. Tonight I decided to remove the airbox, as I had noticed it seemed loose and not secure at all. I soon discovered the intake resonator had a chunk out of it, about the size of a 20c coin. This can't be good, as unfiltered air is being sucked in after the MAF, which could cause issues I assume. For now I have taped it up with strong tape until I find a replacement, the air intake boot (Part that attaches to the resonator) was split a little also, but its still sealing from what I can tell. I went for a good drive after my dodgy repair, car seemed to go a bit better and shows as using less fuel on the OBC, however the issue still remains regarding the cam sensor. There also seems to be a piece missing that goes between the MAF and Airbox, be it a rubber seal or something, who knows, all I know is that it doesn't connect to the map securely and has plenty of movement, for now this is taped up also.

Mmm now you mention it, it probably only shows up on the High OBC when using the steering wheel controls. The 4:3 screen on mine isn't great, it has a vertical line through it, but still works for now. I got a CD Stacker from a 2005 E46 which has enabled me to use MP3 CD's, however if I go passed Track 99 it gets a bit upset and locks up. Hopefully someone else has some more insight. I would disconnect the battery and unplug the Nav unit, then reconnect battery (so that it reboots) and see if that helps. I think there's a Blue connector for the video signal.

Hmmm, strange, either the LCD is gone burgers or the connection behind it isn't connected properly? Welcome to the world of E39 Ownership, how are you finding the car compared to the E36 you sold recently? The radio stations should show up on your dash cluster though, at least mine does, as does CD tracks etc.

Not much progress so far as far as the bodywork goes, infact none at all. Today I sold my Turbo CRX and VW Golf VR6, so the car will get some attention soon. So far since buying the car I have replaced the rear window regulator, heater hedgehog, ribbon cable in speed cluster, installed cd stacker from 2005 E46, (plays mp3s), installed my amp and sub, serviced auto tranny, engine, replaced belt tensioner, pulley and alternator belt. The car is now finally kept in the garage, but it only just fits. Soon I will need to sort out the headlights as the WOF is due next month, i want to sort out the front bumper also as its annoying me now. The front lip needs to be replaced or repairs. I have a replacement cam Sensor on the way to install. I think this post needs to be moved to Projects.. if an admin reads this, can you please move it. Cheers

Still looks to be a fun car for $12500, of course he should be more honest and list the full details..would have thought the engine and box would be worth most of the asking price.

I ended up ordering a new sensor. The installation process looks to be fun http://m52camshaftsensorreplacewriteup.blo...l-write-up.html A comment from someone who replaced it "After having driven the car a few days now since I replaced the cam sensor am realizing that I have gained significant "getup and go", that was not there before for quite some time, even before the CEL came on. Suspect the sensor was toast long before the CEL told me about it.......... Especially at low RPM I had been noticing some "knocking" and sluggish behavior that is now no longer there"

I'll look into that and perhaps try repairing the wiring before replacing the sensor if it looks to be the issue. Cheers

After work today a kind forum member came over and checked for problems with his scanner. It came up with a Cam Sensor Fault. So its likely to be this or the wiring I suspect. I need to get a new valve cover gasket set, new air filter etc, so will be interesting to see how it goes after I replace these along with the Sensor. Hopefully my Fuel economy improves a little too.

Yeah I should get myself a scanner and see what comes up, will be a handy thing to own anyway. I'd prefer to replace the parts that need replacing rather then just guessing and replacing a whole lot of things. I also have some Vanos seals sitting here from http://www.beisansystems.com/ to deal with some time, one I get the other required tools. They claim problems like "Vanos Seals Failure Symptoms Overall loss of torque and power, particularly in the lower RPM range, < 3k. Bogging then surging at 3k RPM. Uneven power distribution and RPM transition. Engine hesitations in the lower RPM range, < 3k. Louder idle and intermittent idle RPM hiccups. Difficult takeoffs. Loss of power and bogging when AC on. Increased fuel consumption. Vanos fault codes. Double vanos cars with the M52TU engine (98/99-00) experience cold weather cold start idle jolts and possible stall.

Now you mention it, I think the rocker cover gasket is leaking a bit, oil is making its way to the A/C compressor. I haven't noticed it mis-firing as such, but I guess it could be, probably hard to hear it considering how well the car is insulated. It runs well until its been driven around for 20mins or so though, perhaps the cam sensors are falling over once the cars fully warmed up, would this usually throw a code? I'm tempted to get a Code reader.

I have had the E39 for 3 months now. I have spent about a grand servicing it, changing auto tranny fluid etc, replaced belt tensioners etc. For the most part the car runs well. I can drive off in the morning and it pulls well down low and feels peppy enough to drive, however once fully warmed up and stuck in traffic etc, the car can intermittently lack power, ie, go to take off to get through a roundabout or at traffic lights the car has no go and feels like it wants to die, then takes off ok once its over 3000rpm or there abouts, next set of lights etc it might be fine, but still doesn't run as well as it does when cold 1st thing in the morning. I know this model isn't a rocket ship, but surely it should always run as well as it does from cold. I guess the 1st step is to scan for errors?

Hi Guys, Today I had the cluster repaired, which means the pixels are now all working clearly, however I can now read a message that comes up every time I start the car, (even when the cars cold and hasn't been driven since the day before) The LCD Screen displays "Slow! Cat Overheat! when you turn on the ignition 1 click before starting the engine. Could this be a sensor on the cat converters causing this? Once driving the message doesn't re-appear.

Yeah, wondering if I cut that out whether or not I can get away with no cert, (if I buy the factory plastic surround) the car has a factory rear arm rest, so could look legit?

So recently I purchased an E39, which had no band expander or CD Stacker. Have since purchased a CD Stacker from a 2005 E46 BMW that supports MP3, this is working fine, seems ok with 99 mp3's in the main folder on a CD. (Any more then this and it goes back to 0 when you get to track 100 which makes finding tracks tricky). Then I purchased a Euro Band expander, which seems to work well and has no reception issues, as its designed to be used with active antennas. Last week I wired in a 2 Channel Amp using speaker level inputs, bridged to run my Image Dynamics 10inch Sub. The Sub sounds fine when your at the back of the car with the boot open, however the sound is barely noticeable in the cabin, I punched out the wee 4inch holes on the rear tray inside the boot, but didn't didn't do much. Perhaps if I completely remove the speakers on the back shelf it will help let some bass in the cabin? I only care about having a front sound stage anyway. Another thing is, the sound quality of the front speakers is annoying me, in a word , they are sh*t. I have some DLS MS5A 5.25inch Components Spare, they require 58mm Mounting Depth, does anyone know if these will fit in the front doors? also the tweeter needs to fit in the stock location ideally. but not essential. Is it a waste of time using these with the factory amp? Cheers

Its possible the Cluster is from a 4 Cylinder model, take a pic and post up of the cluster, from memory the redline starts at 6000 on 4cyl, and 6200 ish on 6cyl

From what i recall my 320i auto E30 did 3000rpm at 100k was a 1990 Facelift, I heard that the pre facelift had taller gearing, ie lower rpm at 100k

I need a Radio Tuner for a E39, (The type thats installed in the boot of the car) I already have the Jap Import one, but would like one that picks up NZ Radio stations. Cheers Charles PS. Ray, I sent you a PM about your CD Changer.

Your best bet is to remove the dash cluster and send it off to be repaired, to either Glenn or someone else that does the repair. It took me just over 5mins to remove mine from my E39. It was as simple as removing the 2 Trim Pieces around the cluster (the Fake wood looking bits) I used a small Flat Head screw driver with Insulation tape over it to Lever these off. Then removed 3x Screws exposed with a Philips Screw Driver. There is 3x very small Allen Head screws to remove above these are black and might be hard to see (Look at the picture below to get an idea of where they are, you can see 2x of them), this allowed me to pull the cover (that covers the Dash Cluster) towards me, removed some connectors going to headlight switches etc, probably a good idea to disconnect the battery to begin with, as I found that unplugging the headlight switch resulted in the headlights being turned on. Once that piece is out of the way there is 2x more Allan Head screws to remove on the dash cluster. Then you can pull the entire unit out, adjust the steering wheel to the lower position before you start, allows easier access to pull the entire unit out, at which time you will need to pull out the 3 plugs attached to it The same procedure on my old Honda Prelude took 6x longer and there was a lot more pieces to remove. You can see where some of the screw holes are on this picture of mine. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I'm assuming my Wheels are just some Generic 17 inch with BMW Centre caps?

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....249&hl=asap

All good.. I found it Code Description (interface) Description (EPC) S260A SIDE AIRBAG DRIVER/FRT PASSENGER Side airbag for driver/passenger S305A REMOTE CONTROL FOR CENTRAL LOCKING Remote control for central locking S354A GREEN STRIPE WINDSCREEN Windscreen, green-tinted upper strip S401A SLIDING/VENT ROOF, ELECTRIC Lift-up-and-slide-back sunroof, electric S415A SUNBLIND FOR REAR WINDOW Sun-blind, rear S423A FLOOR MATS, VELOUR Floor mats velours S428A WARNING TRIANGLE Warning triangle and first aid kit S431A INTERIOR RR VW MIRROR W AUT ANTI-D Interior mirror with automatic-dip S441A SMOKERS PACKAGE Smoker package S459A SEAT ADJUSTM., ELECTR. W. MEMORY Seat adjustment, electric, with memory S500A HEADLIGHT WASHER SYS/INTENSIVE CLEANING Headl.washer system/intensive cleaning S534A AUTOMATIC AIR CONDITIONING Automatic air conditioning S540A CRUISE CONTROL Cruise control S602A ON-BOARD MONITOR WITH TV On-board monitor withTV S676A HIFI LOUDSPEAKER SYSTEM HiFi speaker system Code Description (interface) Description (EPC) S694A PREPARATION FOR CD CHANGER Provisions for BMW 6 CD changer S773A WOOD TRIM Fine wood trim L807A JAPAN VERSION NATIONAL VERSION JAPAN S818A MAIN BATTERY SWITCH Battery master switch S875A INFRARED REMOTE CONTROL Infrared remote control S925A SHIPPING PROTECTION PACKAGE Dispatch protection pack