Drea//Mer

Looking forward to seeing this one in person.

nice car, good to have another 328'er on the forum ?

I hope you're not talking about the alpina! Im gonna try change the rear arms over tomorrow, if it doesnt go well i might give send you a txt ☺️

This is my point, it failed at this particular place for worn shoes, but if i do the conversion and take it for a wof elsewhere they would never know it wasnt discs from factory. When looking up the vin in several different systems it shows the car as having discs. The guy at supercheap auto insisted to my partner that the car had discs and that she didnt actually want the brake shoes she asked for. I understand the braking system is very important to get right, i've taken calipers on and off before and bled brake lines etc, but if i do end up doing the swap i will have my work checked over properly.

Okay so i failed a WOF on worn brake shoes, and destroyed a fair amount of stuff trying to get the brake drums off in the replacement process. Its going to cost several hundred dollars replacing the brake shoes, brake cylinders brake drums and some of the spring kit components so im wondering if it be easier for me to convert to a rotor / caliper setup in the rear? I do have a complete rear end setup that i pulled out of an automatic 318i, diff, wheels, crossmember etc that will almost be a bolt on replacement (i think) but i was wondering if i need lvvta certification if im doing a brake drum to brake rotor swap... the cars came from factory with both options. I'd like to see the wof inspectors reaction when i bring it back in with rotors itead of drums. Does anyone know if this will need cert?

That car does have an odd combination, every 318is i've seen in person has the full motorsport bodykit; but this car does have the twin cam engine so it is better than the standard 318i...

havent pulled the switch off yet, its still making contact right now so i assume the switch itself is fine, just something inside the tumbler or maybe the shaft that connects the tubler and switch has snapped causing the key to not turn the barrel & actuate the switch. From what i have read i cant remove the ignition tubler without turning it to position 2 and using a hairpin in the wee hole to release it, not possible from where it is now. I'll have to try pulling it all apart frm the back.

yup. I gave the tumbler to the locksmith today and they were able to cut an acurate factory key and give me the corresponding key number ? I'll be transferring the chip from the old key into the casing for the new to deal with the ews issue. My problem now is im pretty sure the ignition barrel is broken, neither key turns it and its locked in "acc on, run on" position. I'll be attempting to wire a push button setup like this: http://bmwz3diys.weebly.com/push-button-start.html My only fear is the steering lock randomly engaging while i drive, is this possible if the ignition is doing weird stuff?

My only key for my e36 318i has become so worn that the other day it slid right out of the ignition tumbler leaving the car stuck in the igniton on position. I had to stall the car to stop the engine. My local lock smith tried copying a key from the old worn key, resulting in a key with missing teeth that will not work in any lock. He told me if i can find the original key code he can lasercut it from that.. Where would i find such a code? We tried calling our local (Dunedin) dealership but they were less than helpful and actually quite rude. Is there a vin number to keycode lookup table? Failing that i will be taking a door tumbler in with the correctly ordered wafers in for the locksmith to decode by hand... If there is no publicly available vin-key lookup surely there is a wafer number to key number conversion chart? Im probably going to be replacing the ignition switches with a push button start setup that replaces the cigarette lighter, but i really want a working key.

Finally got around to getting my gauges transferred from old car to new, i designed and 3d printed a gauge cluster that basically snaps into the interior and surrounding panels. I had to cut the original sunglass shelf off the cigarette & button thing, which i did carefully with a coping saw, the cluster has plastic tabs which slot behind the cut down piece, and a lip which slots into the OBC unit above. At the moment im monitoring water temp and air / fuel. Plan to change the tachometer out in future.

Fun times with e36 door locks.

i think the lip is quite cool to have from a collectors point of view but it looks a little over the top for a street car... but if you're making copies i'd definately be interested! i much prefer the lip + splitters look you have in your signature

New front pads and rotors installed today, also fitted new waterpump, thermostat & housing, coolant level sensor.

well my order arrived super quick, very happy ?? pretty slick for 90usd shipped. took 5 days to get here So im guessing 'cause they are from 'murica the passenger side goes on the drivers side? or do the slots actually point backwards?

Oh wow i hope this stuff actually ships out! So i jumped on the brake rotor bandwagon and snapped up a set of these: Power Stop EBR419XPR Front Evolution Drilled & Slotted Rotor Pair But when i went to find the matching rear rotor set they wouldnt ship to nz ?. So i found these for the rears: ACDelco 18A1579 Specialty Performance Rear Passenger Side Disc Brake Rotor Assembly ACDelco 18A1578 Specialty Performance Rear Driver Side Disc Brake Rotor Assembly Not exactly a big brake kit but they should be all i need for a brake upgrade... Ill source new pads and lines locally.

if installing an older non-ews motor into an ews car it will only fire the cylinders if one of the wires is cut on the round 25 pin connector (you also need the dme from the older engine) From an old post of mine:

im all for making my car go faster; but this actually scares the sh*t out of me ?

Watched this last night, i feel its somewhat related... [HOONIGAN] DT 055: $350 BMW E36 Gets eBay Coilovers

Im not worried about the torque loss at this stage, a supercharger will fix that ?. Need more airflow for my boosting intentions, thats why im putting the m50 manifold on. I have fully prepared myself for the change in torque / hp, read a lot of forum posts, bought a couple of books which detail the mod. I do agree it will be less drivable in the city, sticking to speed limits etc; but i really want to build it to see what it can do on track and passing lanes ?

estima sc14 superchargers can be fitted quite neatly on the intake side of the engine, theres a local (nz) guy that does a full bolt on kit good for 5-6 pound. Thats the route im looking at going. You could probably use an oil distribution block for oil feed, i bought one from rally road to run pressure and temp gauges. I think the rally road oil distribution block is curretly on sale, its a good quality part.

Pretty sure all i need is manifold, but ive seen tutorials using the mounting bars and other wee bits for the swap. From what i've read and have been told, the adaptive fuel mapping in the dme will adjust itself to minor modifications like this. You just need to reset the dme's current memory by shorting the battery leads with battery removed for 30+ mins, after that it will readapt over the next few days to get the mixture right.

Some packages arrived today, its like christmas ? Kassel performance m50 manifold kit and parts to delete asc from pelican, Also pictured is new metal impeller water pump and thermostat housing. My next order will be from beisansystems, i promise ?. Im trying to replace as much as i can before the car hits 200,000km, its sitting at 199,6XX right now.

Need door handle assembly with lock removed or with lock & key (from what i've read i need the key to remove the lock barrel and swap in my lock barrel.) Part is required for compact, sedan will work, unsure about other models but from what ive seen they are the same.

Looks about the same size as the one i patched. First drain oil, i used an air compressor to blow all the oil out of the sump. Then i hit the area with a dremel to score the surface and give the epoxy something to adhere to, i grooved the crack line very slightly so it would fill and hold. Mix and apply epoxy; then to be extra sure it would hold i repeated the dremel step around and over the dry epoxy and put another layer of epoxy over it. Mine has held out for over 6 years now, no oil drips.

How bad? i've had moderate success using permatex cold weld epoxy to temporarily patch a small sump crack (overtightened sump plug cracked along the bottom of the sump)