e30ftw

Those look wide as from the front lol. Diggn it hard.

Yeah keep test drives to the serious buyers with the $$$. They crash it they buy it.

Woah only just noticed it's a touring too. That things rusted to hell

Try painting a car with 2k paint in a closed garage with no mask. Cars looking good btw, how soon til shes back on the road?

Yeah I'd guess. Mine are 440f 650r, which is 55%/45% also.

If you do the calcs from Henrys thread: 550f x 0.81 = 445.5 (Effective rate ??) 800r x 0.45 = 360 Add together thats 805.5 total.. 445.5f 805.5 total X 100 = 55% front, so 45% rear. Now I wouldn't have a clue what the f*ck these calculations mean lol, I think load or something. Cbf looking back on Henrys thread..

Sweeet I've been looking around for ages trying to find that Pre FL e30 on the borbet type T's (saw it aaages ago but could never find it again). Pretty sure that one has a custom copper spray job and isn't rusted. But dang that is the perfect stance.

I'm aiming for the height I used to be at anyways, maybe a tad lower, Which with normal springs was not certable as the spring travel was too short.. With shortening the front strut housings and using the shorter koni shocks you can pretty much have the shock and spring in full travel, while having it low and being able to adjust it etc. Something like this, with 16x8's.

Well hey could always sell the koni adjustables and get some billy sports or something which are easier to shorten. I'll take them down see what they say anyways, Just reckon it might be difficult due to having an adjuster in the center.. Anyways can't be bothered doing anything for now, Got bit by a white tail spider. Ouch.. Oh and the cars not gonna be super damn low, But FYI the Koni's they come with are only 20mm shorter than stock. Wouldn't even keep king spring superlows captive.

Haha, I'm going to see what I can do anyways. I don't get what you mean about the bumpstop thing though lol. But I'm gonna try Quality auto machinists to see if they are able to shorten. Prob one of the best workshops around here so I'll see what they say.. Give me your engine hoist lol

Aight so I have done as much as I wanna do for the interior side of things for now (leaving the glovebox etc out incase I need to go back and look at wiring). Seats etc can go back in later too. Decided I'm gonna do all the suspension now, So I've pulled the front struts and control arms out. Got my BFH out because the control arms were stuck in the struts... Had to pull the struts with the control arms then go nuts with BFH til they seperated. Chopped king spring superlows on the side lol. The ground controls, Gonna take them somewhere have the housings shortened then I can fit them in. Only problem is the rear shocks are waaay to long. And they aren't exactly shortenable either, having adjusters in the center of them and the mount sits on a welded perch like so: So I have had a chat with some people and been suggested to get 50lb 'helper' springs in the rear, so it keeps everything captive.. Not sure what to do, but these seem like a proper way to go. http://www.truechoice.com/prodinfo.asp?number=EIB%20HELP http://www.truechoice.com/prodinfo.asp?number=EIB%20SPACER

^ Hard. The stuff Ash posted is Mean. Downlink.

Change your mind and finish it off!!

Nah loko at where your crank sensor is plugged into, watch the wire were it goes into the engine loom, the same place another plug of the same wire length comes out there too. Sometimes easy to get them mixed up, but if you have not touched them then there shouldn't be an issue.. Bad crank sensor will cause there to be no spark anyhow so start checking the basics and see how you go.

Start by checking you are getting a spark. If you aren't then that probably points it straight to the crank sensor benig at fault and I assume you have that plugged in? There is another plug of th same length that is where the crank sensor plug is on the engine loom, used to plug into the #6 inductive pickup, if that was not plugged in you may have plugged the crank sensor into that instead so you might wanna check that. I have a mint crank sensor if you end up needing one, just PM me and can flick it of to you cheap.. Whoops i'll prob add I just skim-read your post lol, your talking about no fuel my bad...

Cheers guys. Yeah so far everything is going good

That is bad ass man. any pics of engine bay?

3300rpm at 100kmh though lol, would be changing gear too often cos your gears would be short as

Yeah I still wanna pull the rear end out to throw some urethane bushes in there, also swapping diffs with Stephen. My 3.64LSD for his 3.46LSD. Still a high ratio for a 1:1 final drive e36 box but meh..

Body wiring side of things is done now, so gotta put everything back in now. funnn. Custom Flame tints

Druley has some sick stuff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqEuTFR00L0...feature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tyS8pJnw-KU...feature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMymnwtOvdc...feature=related

Need just the bare bracket for the driver (right) side for my low and high beams.. Mines broken 1 of the 3 tabs so doesn't sit right.. *edit* sussed.

Depends how you go about it. You can get another autobox for a couple hundred. DIY the swap with a few extra hands if you have the tools. Or consider a manual conversion, can run around $900 now I think? then DIY that with a few mates too.

here

You might like some of this then Mark. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXH5hPWj_z0...feature=related