Etwenty1

Whats wrong with the 320i? is it pfl also? it would be a shame to scrap a working car if it just needs minor engine work.

Yeah engaging the power steering does drop the revs, ive tried to check the ps fluid but my cap unscrews to reveal the end of a thread. Where is the ps dipstick typically?

remember to pre-load the suspension before torquing up the bolts eh, but you probably know that already. ....supercheap were cheaper than that when i bought one. hehe pre-load?

Cheers, throttle valve switch would be the TPS that i replaced..... Will think about the FPR, but i can't see how that would be related to RPM, i think it would stall anytime with a dodgy FPR not just on brakes. Might check brake booster line......Thanks for those suggestions.

idle is stable between 500-600, idle is smooth with just a hint that one cylinder might be dropping out.... hard to explain. Have checked all pluds and put stethescope on each injector to check. If i slow down slowly the the idle dips to just under 500 then recovers. If i brake hard it dips under 500 then stops. Like there is too much load... or the ICV is not kicking in. Will check ECU, cheers Brent.

Have been doing some of the deferred maintenance on the old 1993 540i i picked up as a non-runner. Had a rough idle, noisy chain and oil leaks. Replaced rocker cover gaskets, the pcv plate gasket and associated o rings, oil pan gasket, oil pump bolts, chain tensioner, oil fliter, oil, air filter. I now have a car that is running better, quiet and leak free but has a new tendency to stall if you brake hard to a stop. Not sure if its a new problem because i was nursing it along everywhere. I had it scanned at Shersons (indie BMW workshop) and they said the TPS was faulty. I have replaced this and again its running even better, but still stalling. Have checked for vacuum hose leaks and the workshop gave it a good spray with some solvent but no leaks found. I picked up a full set of coils from a known good runner so i unplugged each coil while running, each made a very slight difference to the idle especially the plug at the front pass side that nearly stalled it when un plugged. swapped all the coils over and it seems smoother but you guessed it, still stalling. I have cleaned the AFM and the ICV what was a bit gummed up but now moving freely. The scan test also cleared the AFM. Both crank and cam position sensors are on spec for resistance. The only other things i can think of are fuel pump and battery. I had to replace the fuel pump and one filter to get the car running, i should replace the other filter too.... The battery was dead flat after sitting for months but came up ok. It goes a bit flat if the car sits for a week requiring a quick jump. Voltage at idle is 14v. The car accelerates verrrry well and drives good, no cutting out under load etc. I'm tempted to replace the cam and crank sensors based on the amount of online forum threads pointing at these but hate doing that when no fault is showing. Am thinking ICV but.............any ideas?

If you go down this track i'd be keen take a couple and share shipping.......

I think everyone has made at least one major f--kup at work. If this was me I would approach this guy directly and say that you have noticed his change in attitude toward you, explain that were trying to do your best, that you have learnt a lesson. Ask what he intends to do about it. If you don't like his answer then go politely speak to the big boss. Just say you are worried about it ands ask whats going to happen. They need to inact some disciplinary action or back off. IME these days employers avoid trying to sack staff using the proper route because there is a fairly strict proceedure they need to follow. Far easier to sweep it under the carpet if they think you're a dick and then make your position redundant 3 months down the track. Sometimes its better to bring things to a head than sit fretting for ages.... Just my 2c - hope it work out.

Did you get a noticeable difference in performance?

If you are an employee then your employer will have insurance (you also probably have public liability if you have contents insurance). Your employer needs to follow the correct proceedure which involves a proper investigation and at worst a warning. IMHO your employer can't recover a cent from you unless you agree to it. So dont. Maintain your had good intentions and apologise if you have to but thats it. This is the advantage of being an employee rather than an employer.

e30 manual conversion pedal stops wondering about the kickdown switch on the accelerator pedal, if i remove this is there a stop that goes in its place? Also the clutch stop i have is a simple plactic disc with no adjustment. Is there a common adjustable option?

To shorten the trouble shooting time I would change "local mechanic" for one that "knows bmw's" otherwise you will end up paying for his leaning curve. You may pay a higher rate per hour but they will diagnose in half the time. Your location would also help. Sounds like your mechanic is just guessing - was that crank position sensor tested or replaced? sounds like it was just re-fitted? if that has been damaged/worn by contact it could be causing an intermittent fault. It also needs to be installed with the correct gap between it and the pulley. IMO also avoid auto electricians unless an experienced mechanic refers you to one, otherwise they will just suggest you start replacing electrical/electronic components without locating the fault.

yeah, with the nice new windscreen trim too........

offers?

15x7' rims that came with my E30 complete with 4 BMW badges. They have hub centric rings, nice tight fit on E30 hub. Offset looks perfect front and rear. Selling without tyres for $450, can discuss a price including the near new Bridgestone Turanza's currently fitted. 205/55/15 minimal kerbing due to lip protector style tyres.

Ive used a couple of these in 325i's no problem. The fit to the standard bracket with minimal work. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=134070 TRE340 rated 255 LPH Have a few new spares still in boxes for $100 ea plus postage.

I would only be guessing but possible wear on the key(s) and/or the lock is preventing proper function. As Hotwire said, the valet option allowed for just the boot to be kept secure. Simpler (and cheaper?) option would be fit an alarm with remotes to open/lock.

http://www.billswebspace.com/BMWE30DoorPanelRemoval-LockCylinderRebuild.htm You will need to buy a lock repair kit as per the above link or live with it. See the above link. Inside you lock is a small ball bearing that wears out meaning you have to turn the key to the deadlock (horizontal) position to get the lock to function. And no you can't swap your passenger lock for the drivers one. They are different

good idea cheers

correct. I'm pretty sure mine being a 1993 does not have EWS which requires a chip in the key for ignition?. Not sure if mine even had keyless entry as standard or if they all did. I could move the lock tumbler from the passenger door but that still leaves me with no keyless entry.

So my 1993 540i has a different key for the driver door. The key that goes in the ignition has a standard black plastic body, no fob. This key works the other doors and the boot. The key for the drivers door does not work in the other doors or the ignition but has the remote buttons. Is there a way to reprogram the fob to trigger the central locking ? I'm assuming it has come from a differnt car along the the driver door lock. Anyone know if these models need a chip key to start them, as above my ingition key just has a plastic body like an e30 key.

Buy a car cover from supercheap and cover the car. You neighbours will love you too.

you are right, there was a thread a while back about this one and others that have been on for years. 4k spent on an m20b25.......? negatives - shocking pics, tacky steering wheel and the seatcovers for a start

quite possibly, but they did what they said they would do. I put injector cleaning in the same urban myth/placebo effect category as auto sparkys suggesting HT leads should be routinely changed. Ive heard about untrasonic cleaning but never first hand from someone who said it improved their cars performance.

IMO If you want to be sure they are in good working order you should just get your leads tested if you suspect a fault rather than just changing for them for no reason. Better to spend $$ on a good cap and rotor which will wear and affect performance. Ive got a couple of good 6 cyl sets spare from running cars for say $50 a set.