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petone

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Posts posted by petone


  1. Try it with a full tank of 95. I can tell the difference between 91 and 95, not so much with 98 and 95, might just be more placebo effect. It just generally runs smoother and better economy, and the extra 5c a litre is stuff all really when paying 1.45 a litre.


  2. in regards to the amp being on "full" I assume you talking bout the gain? That wont be draining your battery. If the light is off then your amp should be tunred off and wont suck power, I'll be very surprised if there is a problem with the amp.

    The gain control shouldn't be on full either though, this controls how much the amp is amplifiing the signal, or effectively how loud the subs will be.


  3. Depends how tough they make the testing, I'm in the same boat as you: My 19 year old banger doesn't use any oil or water and has been well looked after since i've owned it, and previous owners from the looks of things, but it is an old engine with even older technology (or lack of it) and doesn't have a cat or o2 sensor.

    I agree with who ever said a well maintained old car should be better than a new heap, so maybe emmissions testing is a better idea than age restriction.

    Is this restriction to reduce emmissions, fuel consumption or both?

    also, is the emmissions problem really that bad though, how often does someone see a car smoking really badly nowadays?


  4. Um don't you only want the amp on when the headunit is?

    Yes you could wire up a switch but you'll forgot to turn it off and next morning your battery is flat, just sort it properly.

    Chris is exactly right but I think you might be getting a little confused still.. There are 3 wires relating to power FOR the head unit: EARTH (usually black or brown), 12V POWERr (should be fused (10AMP) and come straight from battery) and IGNITION (or accessory i suppose), I used the wire from the factory radio, otherwise you'll have to hunt down a wire that will be on when the key is in ACC or ON.

    Once you've got that sorted you need the remote wire for the amp, this is so the amp is only on when the head unit is and doesn't drain your battery. Make sure you use the proper REMOTE wire for this and not antenna as some headunits will only raise the antenna when the radio is on, meaning you'd only have subs for the radio.

    Other things to note, some headunits might share an antenna and remote wire, mine does. Also, there is a limit to how much current you can draw this, from memory 2 amplifiers should be sweet but I'm not sure about more than that.

    ALWAYS pull the negative cable off the battery before you do any work so you don't accidently short something.

    Lastly don't forget fuses and don't pull ghetto sh*t, either solder and then heatshrink connections or use proper crimp connection. If you don't you'll regret when your sounds turn off over bumps or worse, you fry something important.


  5. They treat it like a standard 540iS and get the limo parts in and not the M5 gear, even when you warn them. Then you barely get an apology.

    Hate it when people ignore you warning them, I tried to tell the alignment guy my car will be a PITA but he tells me he knows what he's doing. They get the car on the hoist and what do ya know? They start complaining about how hard it will be.


  6. ticket prices are fair but its all the other costs of getting up there plus accomodation food booze etc. And after new years as well so money is really tight. It would be cool if it was closer to new years so it could be merged into one mission.

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