petone

easier (no engine mods, all external) to get that from a 13bt.

rank, then again, u.s. domestic model fd's are probably a poor spec

and how long would that last between rebuilds? lag? grunt straight off the bottom?

Mmmmm... Sacrelicious

easy (with a pretty mild cam) 400hp at the wheels from those engines

I may have one available around the end of the year, not sure whether to run my 3.91 or 4.1

Is a 3.91 close enough or does it have to be a 4.1?

No one really seams to buy Mtec shocks new, most people go for the konis or bilstein if they looking for a performance shock. I don't know how much shorter they are than standard. The Mtec shocks might say 'bilstein' or 'boge turbo' on them. I'm running boge turbos in the rear and they retail for roughly $300 (pair) from memory.

the shocks second hand? How worn are they? If you have them then take out one of your rear shocks (takes 10 min max) and compare them.

1200 will be for the full set, and I'm pretty sure rears are usually cheaper so say around $400.

OEM 'M' shocks are either boge or bilstein (probably revalved to suit BMW)

my urethane trailing arm ones slid straight in, same for subframe. Both PITA to get out though.

I done tinting once, never again. If you are really broke then give the sides ago but forget about the back one.

I've had trouble with the cops from 35%, BMWs have a factory tint which makes it a tad darker than 35%

wouldn't be suprised if they've used some sort of online translator

great little section of road heading up to larnach castle, but I'm guessing you wont have your car down.

I prefer albert arms to the other pubs, pretty sure uni finishes this week so there probly a few out on friday atleast

the kits a nice change from mtec, pity theres stuff all around.

WD40 is your friend

I had 3 direzza 101s pinched from my garage on the weekend

not quite the same value as some 19's but still f**king BS!

I got my Z3 1.8 from Euro Italian for around the $130 mark.

My Z3 lever was cheaper than that from the $tealer

$109 or something like that

Have an online parts place quote you freight, may be cheaper than you think.

neat. what you using for the heatshield?

HB

Cheers fellas, it feels old not being a teenager anymore!

haha I know exactly what ya mean

ok general question. who has put a pod filter in their car? as im thinking of putting one in. but im kind having second doubts as if i do put one in (without a separator) the intake would just suck in hot air from the engine

anyone made or bought a separator between the pod - engine? and where to get one or whats needed to make it

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....p;p=entry

like its says either had the bits lying around, got them from pick-a-part or offcuts from metal places.

Hardest bit was brackets for the AFM, they're pretty decent though.

Feel free to ask if something not clear.

edit, no probs with idle here.

I thought the water cooling was more for the sake of the oil than the turbo? Basically you can go longer between oil changes, keeps oil temps down etc.

walk up to the next mint looking E30 you see, pop the bonnet and pull off all the "rubbery crap" thats behind the fuse box and have a look. ok so maybe the E30 owner isnt going to let you pull his car to bits, but trust me its there.... and lots of it ...

if you have wet carpet in your E30 and cant find any rust, pull out your dash and look on the inside where this "rubbery crap" is, im betting you will find rust. water gets in behind it (rubbery crap) and cant drain so it eats its way out leaving behind a lovely hole. sometimes it eats into the vent part and from thereand then into the car causing an even bigger mess.

would be an interesting survey to find how many E30 owners have wet carpet after rain.

I have no carpet. I have a 2 pools of water in the rear foot wells after a big rain. I cant f**king find the leak. There are no signs of water running from the dash or anything. All sunroof drains have been cleaned and seem to be draining properly. The front firewall drain had been cleaned. Must be coming from the boot, any other ideas?

/Thread hijack

Being a broke student and having broke student mates I still see alot of rusty old cars around.

am i correct in saying if its a lsd diff you should be able to jack the back off the ground a spin one wheel and the other side will spin the oppisite way??

while an open diff the oppisite side ethier wont spin or will spin the same way?

Otherway way round dude

search button does wonders:

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....465&hl=diff

You certain about the LSD? If the car was in gear the wheels shouldn't move. There is a tag on the back of the diff, an LSD will have an 'S' before the ratio.

Easy job to do yourself or do you need a press to get the bushes in or out?

I used a gear puller for the trailing arm ones, but you could rig up your own tool easy enough. Urethane ones slide straight in without needing a press. Subframe ones are the biggest PITA. I melted/burned the middle part out then slowly hack-sawed through the remaining part until it collapsed in. There is a proper tool to remove them though.

They are completely coated - you can't see the braid.

AFAIK thats one of the requirements for lines to be WOFable, for the reasons that sam said.

How much of an improvement is there over NEW rubber lines? I ask as most people seem to go from crappy old lines to the SS ones and rave about them.

Can anyone tell me if these will work for upgrading drum brakes?

yes. attach them to the oustside of your drums.

probly will be the M42 gus, the M43 was the replacement for the M40, ie is in the normal 318i

I still like the stuff on the new S-class...

anyone fancy a night vision camera?