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petone

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Posts posted by petone


  1. While I'm here I'm curious about the F/L pre F/L pistons question[assuming they have the same bore size] did they change the rod length [& piston compression height] does this apply to the 2.0 M20 as well?

    I've only heard of the 2 conrod heights of either 130mm or 135mm. Not all M20 blocks are the same, some e34 blocks have a different dipstick location and the blocks with 80mm bores lack steam holes. I haven't seen anything about different deck heights.


  2. I drive a civic as a daily and love it ... wish it was a type R though ... hmmmmm ...

    Personally I'd go for an E30 M3 as a daily .... why compromise comfort for enjoyment of driving?

    thats the thing, my daily driving consists of traffic lights. how can you enjoy an M car in stop-start traffic?

    would be like possum hunting with a chain gun.

    It would get the job done but a huge waste. A .22 would get the job done a lot more efficiently and cheaply.

    chain gun is far more at home pwning hooligans from a chopper


  3. A daily needs to have these qualities:

    Soft, supple suspension for get over speed bumps / pot holes etc.

    easily manoeverable for getting in and out of tight car parks.

    good fuel econony, especially in stop start traffic.

    A "piece of sh*t" factor, so you don't care if someone touch parks it, you can jump over a curb to get around another car, etc.

    plenty of doors so you can take people places / load a christmas tree or whatever.

    Not bagging them, I just wouldn't subject them to the punishment that a any dialy of mine would be expected to endure.

    fully agree with you,

    M5 seems like a bit of a waste around town.

    so much for realistic cars, unless people on this board have more money than I was led to believe...


  4. again I hate to say this after I was saying E36 aint as fun as E30 but they are a far better daily for getting to work/shopping. That would be my sensible option as a daily, however I've always been partial to E34's. M50 powered 525 would be nice.

    But thats why I've still got my e30, cheap to run and nothing else appeals to me.

    XR6T would be cool though, one of the later ones with the 6spd box. so tunable.


  5. Hate to admit it but I was thinking about getting something else. Main thing stopping me is the time/money i've put into my car (yeah I know some of you guys have spent plenty more) and the fact the car isn't worth selling. I'd guess i'd get $2K if i was lucky.

    Besides that I don't know what else i'd get, anything I want is out of my price range initially or else the repair/maintenance will quickly bankrupt me.


  6. The motor-force guys are keen to help out, but shipping will be a killer. Even with 3 people still looking at roughly $50US each just for shipping. They would drop the price of the studs depending on how many people bought them. I may get then sent to family over in the US and get them to post them but shipping would be longer. Anyone else keen?


  7. I thought about using E32? ones but pretty heavy and poor pad selection. Instead I have some E28 535 calipers at home which I plane to mate with A3 discs. Should so do the job nicely. Just so you know a disc height of somewhere between 35-40mm would be ideal.


  8. So you have F**k up.

    haha, might want to tell that to ACS, Hartge, and Alpina. They all made 16x7.5 rims for E30.

    Also, Toyo, Dunlop, and Bridgestone all approve their 205/50R16 for 7.5" rims

    So if I f**ked up I guess the above companies did as well?


  9. Grant- wheel bolts or proper screw in stud kits? I wouldn't have expected CPA to carry stud kits.

    The transit studs isnt a bad idea but your still looking at $100+ all up and its a bit of work. I do agree with you though that its a better solution than screw-in studs.

    I'll get in touch with the 2 places I listed and see what they can do. If their going to rape us on shipping I might get em sent by family over there.


  10. I'd need 4 more than you two.

    Guess we'd have to buy their BBS wheel nuts too?

    75mm or 90mm?

    huh? why would you go with turner when there are kits out there a third of the price?

    worth a shot asking for a discount for 3. powerflex did with our CABs


  11. depends on the surface your starting with, if they've been polished before it will be easy. But chances are when you get them straightened they will machine the lips again to get a perfect balance, (wish I'd known this before I spent hours removing the curbing myself) and those machine lines are a bitch to remove.

    Can't tell you what the center colour is, its off some sort of Citroen. I just had a flick through some colour charts and found it. Getting a nice masking line between the paint and polish was also a PITA.


  12. cool man..how did ya polish the lips?

    any other refurb tips? mine are off the car till i can be f**ked doing em

    seriously unless your broke as or have what you need lying around I'd just pay someone to do them. Takes ages and even supplies/tools cost me a bit, plus a pro will do a better job. I first used 150 to sand back the machine line and then went finer and finer through to 2000 grit. Then used a cotton wheel on a drill with a proper polishing compound, finished with mother mag polish. I also put a wax over the lip/paint which hopefully will make it stay shiny a little longer between polishing.


  13. I got these rims ages ago and they were in a hell of a state; faded paint, bent, and curb rash.

    Anyway, a few months and some major headaches later heres how they look. Hopefully have them on the car later this week.

    BTW rims are 16 x 7.5

    Posted Image


  14. because my exsisting system is the equivelint to a 2.5in so there is no point in doing it right?

    No, a twin 1.25 is about the same as a single 1.75, and the single will flow better becuase there is less surface area. advantage of the twin is its easier to get the pipes under the rear subframe.

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