JiB

No, I haven't? Would love to though? Do you have a link?

I can't quite see with the road car one (it doesn't appear to taper), but on the DTM's, bump could even be there solely to dump waste air nicely...where the vent is where I'd say the low pressure zone is. And the bump's shape is a half drop shape/lowest drag shape for that cross section. But because the bump is angled, it chould also be pushing air around and away from the underside of the car (reducing underbody pressure)? All speculation of course.

I was doing a bit of research/procrastination with aero, and came across the first decent pics of the Evo front splitter that I've seen, so I thought I'd share. It's interesting that the bottom has what I can only assume is a venturi device. I wonder what (if anything) goes behind it? Road car DTM version

I have similar roof racks for sale if anyone else wants an ironing board on their roof?

Hi, just in case you haven't heard, the NZ Festival of Motor Racing is on at Hampton Downs this weekend and Pukekohe the next. There are all manner of awesome motor vehicle attending, and this Friday is an open day for the public too! P.S. Definitely feel free to come say hi to the F:SAE team (in the Bruce Mclaren tent)

Sorted

Maybe ask me in a couple of months when the 2010 suspension design's been finalised (means I'll probably be less of a retard at vehicle dynamics). It's also kind hard to tell when I don't really understand torsion bars, nor how it's placing wheels in bump/heave. And ideally suspension should be set up for the tyres, I'm guessing ideal camber/castor/slip angle for road vs semi are extremely different (my e30 drives like pooo when not using r888's, almost feels like too much castor at times). So maybe figure out what rubber you want to run first, then see if over/under is a problem with them? Then start diagnosing problems from there? Again, my retarded 2c.

I'd hit it! (apart from the redness)

Just wondering, but - if the rear is too stiff, then perhaps softening it slighty and increasing the roll stiffness in front may keep the traction out of corners and increase grip at the rear? (win win) Would also help with higher speed stability? My 2c ...That said, setting a FWD up for oversteer in low speed with big understeer at higher speeds (high rear downforce bias) is also a good way of doing things, but remember - the underside of the wing does most of the work so maybe have a look at underbody aero while you're at it? My 2.5c

Pics

Have had both a Nokia N97 (lasted a month) and iPhone 3G (lasted a fortnight) in 2009. Both sold now, but I really didn't find the iPhone a smartphone as such...more like a entertainment phone? It's OS was very slick and everything looked polished, I liked the multi-touch, etc, etc. But GPS was pathetic, it coudn't handle Microsoft Office or Adobe documents properly, the battery lasted about half a day with calls/texts/WiFi/push, didn't have flash support in it's browser, and there was no multitasking! The N97 wasn't as slick, not even close. But it came with both touch screen and physical qwerty keyboard, Microsoft Office, supported full flash and adobe in it's browser, fantastic GPS, and the battery lasted at least a day or two. Both phones didn't last long because they both felt like they really needed to be taken care of. I don't like having to have a screen protector, or case for my phones. Am currently using my old Nokia e61i which does everything, and has fallen out my car @ 50kph, off my 2nd storey deck, and I don't feel bad using it when my hands are full of oil and swarf. Depending on what you're after - I think an iPhone is only good if you need a phone with great entertainment capacity. If you need a phone + internet tablet capability, try the Nokia N900, or if it's a bread and butter, indestructible smart phone you're after - my current pick would be the Nokia e72, or assorted Blackberries.

Hard plastic tubing and a heat gun works better. But I want my guards equal on both sides (and I've never used/would like to try a proper guard roller before) which is why I asked.

Olympics >> E30. Good job. P.S. Don't bugger off for too long. I graduate/finish F:SAE in a coupla years, need a playmate on track

Cheers guys. Have minor rubbing issues to deal with because I didn't want little sidewalls or stretch (215/45R17 fronts, 225/45R17 rear). Anyone have a guard roller they wanna lend me for some beers/payment/mtechII wing?

Some happy snaps while shuffling my cars around:

Carbon wouldn't have been too much more work if prepreg was used, I guess 'clave time would kill it a bit if you wanted it strong. A flat panel of carbon probably wouldn't be as flexible as polycarb, to bolt-on/mould to the curvature. I reckon what you did was probably the easiest/bang for buck. Best would be to get a mold using the metal roof as a plug, but the huge amount of sanding puts me off

Fxck, I was too eager, I already have some nolathane ones in the garage. But I said I'd take them, so I'll buy them if no one else does.

Can you confirm they'd fit an E30?

17p

Someone bought my volks for a silly amount of money, and I'm not gonna have time to drive my car any more. So I bought it an impractical present. Genuine 4 stud SSR Professor SP1 3 piece rims. 17x9 rear, 17x8 front. Will get more pics when I get round to putting the rest of my Tech1 kit on.

I'll take it

Sicker than AIDS! Bet a iS lip won't be free though

Just cutting the AC and powersteering belts made my M20 rev mo' betterer Both all gone now though!

Love it!

All gone. Cheers Ray!