JiB

Have used all three. I'd rate them: Sportmaxx Adrenalin Eagle F1's But the Adrenalin's were the quietest, and if you commute more than spirited driving then go for the Adrenalins, they handle poor roads better than the Sportmaxx's too. EDIT: Just realised it's an E30, if noise is not an issue then try the Hankook z212. If noise and money isn't an issue then Yokohama AD07's. You'll need to speak to an importer about these though.An equivalent in Bridgestone is the RE01R's, again, you'll have to speak to an importer about these.

I have some 205/50/16's Proxes4's sitting in my shed...so maybe I can stretch those. Toyo's are pretty stretch friendly due to their jelly sidewalls.

Just wondering if anyone has had experience with 9" wheels on a PFL E30. By my calculations I'll need something like 5p to clear the front strut. But Google tells me that 11p 16x9's have fitted to the front of an E30. But I have a suspicion that it may not have been a 51mm strut car. Will try and run 225/40/16's as they are rated for a 9" wide wheel. But at this stage all looks like an awful amount of hassle just for wheels. Especially seeing I have no power to justify the width

I saw a E36 sedan outside work today...big alpina rims, bodykit of some kind....with an Alpina B301 badge? Just curious as to what this is? Google is failing to answering me. I took a pxt but I can't seem to find in the maze of a file system that my phone has . Can anyone enlighten me?

I've got a Ground Control trackday coilover kit for my E30. It's running 600lb+ springs, I'm worried about the chassis handling it as I don't have a cage yet. Is this recipe for cracked struts and a mushed chassis? It does a banana impersonation as is Strut braces will set me back $300+ for front and rear, a $300 I'm probably not all that will to pay if I don't have to. Car has done 320,000kms...so it's not a particularly fresh chassis.

Click here For M20 I presume? Decent price. Friend is using one for a 3S turbo race car.

They're quite bad for you. Try to boil the noodles individually then drain then refill with water and ingredients. The wax/oil coat is usually rancid/carcinogenic. So try get rid of it before you eat the noodles, especially the ones from SE Asia (Malaysia, Indonesia, etc) as the quality control ain't so great.

Wow, that's a huge gain on the Trademe dynograph. Was that with a tune and supporting mods? I'm guessing exhaust, etc?

Don't know weight of the rim (they have semi-slicks on them atm). offset is either 24 or 25p.

Are you sure you are running OEM pads? Perhaps there are some cheap pads in there? OEM pads and discs are probably the ones to go for, even if you go for the odd track day? I was even recommended to stick with OEM discs and rear pads for my race car. They are quality stuff, IIRC the pads are re-branded Pagids and discs Brembos. They aren't like the toyota/mitsubishi/honda pads that were designed for shopping trolleys. Mind you, all this has been for my E30, but I don't really see a reason for it not to apply to E36's? Unless BMW opted for a cheaper/nastier pad/disc combo for the E36's to save on cost? But for a street car (I'm assuming your 318 is such a car) Bendix Ultimates have served me well before, and fairly decent value for money. Otherwise if you're pocket's deep go for some Pagids. I have only heard good things about them.

how much?

Click for Driven Performance one This one doesn't look like it has hinges. Otherwise order one from the states, States' one. But for that money I'd rather go for Ernst's one.

Any offers considered

Ernst at Bavarian Motors did a nice one last time I spoke to him.

Ditto, Garmin on my phone reads lower than the E30 & E46's speedo. Pretty sure most car manufacturers make their speedo's under-read as a safety precaution. Although in the X-Trail it's nearly the same figure off GPS/Speedo.

Want these gone. $400 firm for Bimmersporters. No tyres. Lighter than Basketweaves. Surplus to requirements now. Didn't even get to use 'em

I slow down. 80kph usually indicates that there might be vehicles/workmen as hazards. Perhaps i'm one of few remaining naive people who stick to the speed limit? ...However, I find people who do 80-90kph on motorway right lanes and overtaking lanes hugely annoying.

I see you're in wellington. I recommend having a look at sydways_e30's disc rear end. It's a deal for $100.

I don't think CamB is trying to say that M3 > X5. But I think it's more a case that the X5 isn't something generally seen as fun/quick/etc. And people failed to see the each other's point because of the confusion of who wanted the fun/quick car. I think Cam's M3 is a characterless tin can. And he knows I think this and has no problem with it because for the most part he agrees. He is probably the least likely participant in M3 fanboism to be honest. But it is colossally fast for a NA 3.2, right up there with a modded Z32 deeveeus. Back on topic: Tell us more about the X5 when you get it! Have been driven around in one a fair bit...albeit only the 3.0L but with leather and ALL the options...they are VAST inside and hugely comfortable, and don't seem to want to topple over everywhere unlike most other SUV's. I'm guessing the 4.4 is a fair bit quicker, the 3.0L had buckets of torque but was by no means quick...at all. EDIT: I was too slow typing this. Have been beaten to the point already. Ignore me.

I'm doing the same...except mine isn't cheap any more. Brake pads, discs, lines, fluid will cost $500-700 ish to do everything properly. And E30 brakes are poo, so you really do want to upgrade them. I am using EBC Yellows all around with Znoelli S12's up front and braided lines. They work reasonably well I can vouch for M3 offset castor bushes as they have helped quite a bit. If you can't afford the $$$ that genuine is go for the noltec ones from BnT or Repco - heaps cheaper. May not last as long though. Then you'd want good rubber for track use. Unfortunately this is $$$. I would go for tyres over suspension. The above is what I'd consider to be essential. The following I would highly recommend thinking about. The steering in E30's is also poos, as you have many many turns from lock to lock. I'm running a looped manual rack for the time being, it's heavy but does tell you what is going on with the steering wheels. Very useful in the wet. Will be going to E36 rack when money/time allows. Should be $150 ish. Seat is also fairly important imho, as the standard ones, even the motorsport ones aren't flash if you're throwing the car around. The best bang for buck is the Jamex fibreglass fixed and side mount seats. Was only $150 ish including universal rail. This should hold you in place. And if you can get a cheap FIA approved harness then do it, but you'll have to install a mount on the trans tunnel. Including Authority Card and mount the total would be $300+. Be prepared for LOTS of dicking around though. Otherwise go for some Recaro's out of a Type R or a Evo because they work a damned sight better than the motorsport E30 seats. IIRC Recaro rails are mostly universal so should be able to bolt into the e30 fairly easily. And you shouldn't need the Authority card or harness. Also think about nicking a whole heap of gear from 325/323 like the disc rear end, and the sway bars. Struts, etc. And if your motor mounts are knackered either go for Ireland Engineering ones (Mine were landed $300 - for gearbox and motor mounts) or replace them. Your motor will have your hoses for lunch otherwise. If you do go for Ireland engineering ones, they make the throttle response and shift feel a WHOLE lot better. That's my 2c if you're modding it. Otherwise I'd say start with a 325i that's in reasonable nick. LSD may need different springs/setup at the rear so it's quite an expensive exercise. Might save you some money? Even a motorsport if in the $5,000 range because an LSD is already close to $1,000. If you want rear/disc + swaybars let me know. They're yours for $150ono. includes medium case 3.6x open diff.

That's one "M3" I wouldn't feel so bad about putting an F series motor into. Price was $11,700 when it was last on trademe. Needs better wheels and some panel alignment though.

Ditto. Before stereo was put in it was "Too Many RPMs" by EmTwenty. Now it's loads of trashy power metal. Which sounds pretty horrid coming out of 4" speakers

Very good tyres. Used them on a DC5 which was very picky on tyres. Better than DZ101's. Higly recommend (but a bit noisier than DZ101's). I'd say no where near the feel/grip of Neova AD07 though.

Zenneti you have PM. also (as i understand it) the reason some cars don't need them is because they are lugcentric, so if the wheel is centred the lug/studs can take the weight of the car. Others may use the hub flange as a load bearing device, so the studs may be flexing when load is placed on them, thus moving them out of centre causing vibrations, etc. but all cars shake when the wheel is not centred - common sense. Much harder to centre a wheel with bolts than studs, though the tapered bolts help seat the wheel in the right place if tightened slowly.

Had a quick search on here, couldn't find an answer. Google seems to think it is either 57.1mm or 59mm. Which is it? Are E30's hubcentric or lugcentric? I think I will need some E30 Size to 67mm hubcentric locating rings. Odd size...will probably have to get some made up - any engineering shop will do? And does it matter what the rings are made of? I ran aluminium ones on my old car, but I see heaps of people using plastic ones - I'm guessing both are just as durable for race use?