JiB

Voted. Look forward to seeing you at Deep Hard n Funky

If a cutting compound is used, remember to use a protectant after. Because a cutting compound may make it look like new...but that's because it's just exposed a fresh layer of headlight to the elements. Used Autosol on a mate's car...no-garage + summer sun + 3 weeks = back to square one.

If only I could have another car. Swaps for a rangi E30 racer? Otherwise good luck this time

Is the yellowing on the outside or inside? Meguires PlastiX works well. But obviously some work involved if on the inside.

Wheels too big/modern for my tastes. Wonder why he chose RB over JZ.

Otherwise you could try the Ground Control guys in the US. Quality stuff and they would probably let you order E36 fronts and E30 rear.

Mine has that. I'm pretty sure it's OEM.

Lol, yes that is what I meant.

Wow, those are hot Is this for more power or just insane stopping power?

Depends if Stocks gives you discounts? I was quoted well over $3000 exc GST after a 15-25% discount for basically the same bits as the Ground Control kit I have. GC was $1800 NZD +$330 shipping + $320 GST = $2450 NZD to my door. GC coilover kit = -Custom spring rate eibach springs and koni custom adjustable dampers, shock dyno'd to match -Coilover sleeves (obviously ) -Bumpstops -Camber plates -Top mounts -Spanners, etc, etc So arguably, much better value for money. Most of the gear like the springs, mounts and camber plates have lifetime warranty to the original owner too! And it comes pre-assembled for the incompetent such as myself Hope this helps. (EDIT: this should be pretty good setup for drifting as well because you can run MASSIVE camber and castor with the small diameter springs. And they do rear spring rates all the way up to 800lb!) Also the camber plates can correct camber as well.

Not sure I can...car just split a heater hose and doing some epic leaking out the rear crank seal (I think?) .....and have to tidy the car up for cert as well as get the new suspension in. Needs some cutting welding. ...I may also be in Sydney at the time See how it goes

If you're desperate, BBS LM's come in 4x114.3 in Japan, but like Cam said probably not much dish because of 30-40 offset. Plus side is they're cheap-ish cos the Jap boys don't really rate them that highly. So cost should be below 5x120 rims inc 4x100-114 spacers.

The camber plates in my GC kit are very well finished. Will give up to 2.5deg.

I'd love to but, the car is currently broken and I don't have time to fix it 'cos of exams As far as I could tell when Ollie took me for a ride in his E30 series 320, My 325 (315,000kms) is about the same/slower in a straight line as Ollie's 320 series car I only managed about 160-170kph at the end of Taupo track 1 straight. Pretty slow haha, didn't help that I had no idea how to take that corner entering the straight.

Lol, Cam, it'd probably be the same rims too. The toyo's are almost the same width as the 225/50/16 RE001's I have in my shed. So I reckon it's a maybe. EDIT: Dan, you could measure the rim's actual width where the tyre beads. Sportmax's being a cheap-ish rim may be on the narrow side of 8". Wide 205's narrow 8"s.

So back from single car sprints at A1GP Taupo track. Brakes are great, so will be leaving them alone for the time being. The feel's actually quite normal once the pads are warm. And once you get used to using most of the pedal travel. I have one concern though. The right disc's temperature paint is showing more heat than the left...I thought maybe because the circuit is predominantly left turns this would be normal? The car was braking pretty straight though, just the odd squirm..pretty sure they weren't locking up at the same time though. But this may have been a case of puddles and things all over the place.

Well, back from Taupo. Steering took a bit of getting used to. I whinged, then got over it. Stiffer Engine mounts will be on the way. Feel is a lot better on track. It was raining today and the track had puddles and things. "Manual" rack proved very useful, told me exactly when the fronts were losing it. Made me more confident braking too. Conclusion, I probably won't want to go back to powersteering. If the manual rack is the same ratio of degree/mm as the powersteering rack I'd gladly change over. But the last thing I want is a slower rack now. Silver Fox: So you're running a powersteering rack....dry? Our rangi loop was leaking...and it may have been my imagination but the steering got lighter and more direct as the day progressed..is it true the racks come pre-greased from factory so powersteer fluid isn't needed?

Keen on some Jamex Springs and Bilstein shocks? I will have a set in the next fortnight. EDIT: Sorry, I misread, thought it was 1986. Ignore me

Just wondering if I should be changing over to the manual steering rack (out of a '83 323)? Currently have a looped powersteering rack in the car. I'm afraid that the manual rack's going to be too slow? (Well, even slower than the 325's powersteering rack ) .....and how difficult is it to hookup powersteering for an E30 using the E36 rack and M20 motor?

Tall and skinny tyres with 40psi in them will help. But simpler stuff like: -Correct tyre pressures (I guess you could go one or two psi up, this yielded less gas consumption in dad's 4x4) -Correct Alignment -Take out all unecessary weight -Don't stick things out the window -Drive with the windows up and no a/c (if you have no interior like me the drive tunnel = insta heater ) -Make sure the motor is always doing the least work possible So less weight+less resistance=less gas. My 2c

Useless Trivia: Apparently Gerry Hodges used to own the Group A JPS M3! Look here! This is the one sold to public: It's a nice car, I reckon just put the standard box in it and enjoy it EDIT: This is the one not sold to public :

PPG have precut (off-the-shelf) straight gears for Supra 5 and 6 speeds (W and R series boxes). They are a dog engagement gearset so should come with the dog collars. (from my limited understanding of dog engagement type gears) It would be cheaper and easier getting 400hp out of a 2JZ. Nissan motors are increasing in price these days. SR20's and RB's have gone up a couple of hundred dollars just in the last two years - every silvia/cefiro/laurel owner wants to turbo their car for better skids . But in this part of the world the toyota 6's are somewhat ignored. The is a lot of literature for getting cheap and reliable power out of JZ motors as well. 400hp is doable on standard internals for a 2JZ and 350hp is easy enough with a 1JZ. If you go for a 2nd or 3rd gen 1JZ (cheaper) you can also have the option of stroking with a 2JZ bottom end later on (when more $$ is available). Higher compression, larger exhaust valves, but smaller intake valves. Un-ported 1JZ heads flow better than 2JZ heads, but after work they are the same. ........This is what happens when one hangs around Toyota geeks all the time. You start wishing BMW had a JZ equivalent

CamB is right, a W series toyota box is bulletproof and cost effective. Fits in the E30 drive tunnel too. Probably need a W55/W58 with remote shifter for easiest fitment. Remember to factor costs of custom bellhousing and driveshaft. /toyota geek But if you're made of money you can get PPG in to make up some straight gears and dog collars. This would probably yield the best results for competition use. They are based in South Australia iirc. And I'm guessing it'd be cheaper than big branded Quaife or equivalent.

According to Gull, only post 2000 BMWs can take the ethanol mix. Gull's compatibility chart

Wow, that's amazing...I thought they had the head off and were going to sandblast it...I laughed. Then I read what they were actually going to do then I laughed even harder