Jacko

Could do, but you would need to pay shipping costs. Ill ship for bimmersport members, hows that. Dont really wanna go to the trouble of sending something for a $1 though

Screw it, they need to go lol $1 reserve

Tardme'd http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=338018143 http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=338020493 http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=338019306 http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=338023351

My nick thing is ghhttrre22wssddc ( I got fuct off every other nick being taken! ) Ill add you lot now.

Bumpppppppppppppppppp. Surely someone wants uber cheap lowering springs + sports shocks and swaybars etc Theyre around a 50mm drop, nice spring rates, not rock solid and are nice for everyday driving. Shock are around 30% harder than stock. Make your E30 go around corners

http://www.venommotorsport.com/supersport-suspension.php For $500 ill do supersport springs and shocks, Mtech swaybars with new polyurethane bushes. Can organise fitting for good rate too.

Lots of work, not much progress! Getting the rear subframe bushings out was an ass. Cant set them on fire due to location, so did it the hard way. Bit of a clean up and some paint and theyre ready for new bushes. Got clutch on and gearbox bolted up, only 4 bolts (the big uns) line up between the M20 260 box and M50.

Oh my bad, never seen it before, its gutless anyway

Yeh man that'd be good, thanks.

Day 3, a few steps forward, a few steps back.... Got the shifter and box finsihed, put a slice in the upper bush to get it on the stick. Feels epic. So much tighter and sharper than it used to be! B23 Flywheel resurfaced and the face machined to clear block. Itsy flywheel for the size of the engine, a 4AGE flywheel is bigger! Took about 5mm of material off the block side of the wheel, which gives about 2mm clearance. Bit of a plastic bead and it is one secksie looking 26 year old flywheel! Got the rear subframe out after lots of swearing, RH CV spline was seized, broke two puller bolts in half trying to get it out, the tension was HUGE! Big ass rattle gun struggling to crank it up enough. Finished up the front suspension, and then happened to glance at the front LH strut. UH OH Spaghetti Oh! Thats a 3"+ crack running around the spring perch. Im sure the only thing holding the perch in one peice is the cone shape! Good excuse to do coil overs now. Decided to get the rust in the car fixed while its in the shop too. The Bill Gets Bigger... And Bigger....

All this stuff is currently available. I also have a supersport cup kit, lowering springs and sports shocks to fit a 51mm e30. Low ks, theyre about a year old. TUV certed, made in germany. Bargain at $400.

No such thing as an M52B25. M50B25 iron block, 2.5 litre twincam, later engines M50B25TU have vanos M52B28 Alloy block 2.8 litre twincam, later engines M52B28TU have twin vanos Both make 190ish hp, M52 makes a bit more torque down lower. Your factory loom and ECU will in no way shape or form work. There are HEAPS of threads and websites on this subject. It aint cheap though. You can do it cheap, or you can do it right. www.e3024v.com http://www.e30dohc.com/wiki/index.php?title=DOHC_Swap_Basics Read

One that ends all the kiwi sheep rooter jokes. Kiwi and an Aussie walking down the road. The Kiwi spots a sheep with its head stuck in the fence and says "Woooohooo! Shotgun!" He quickly runs over and gives it too the poor sheep in the fence. The Aussie observes slightly perplexed. Kiwi finishes up and turns to the Aussie "Your turn mate" The Aussie proceeds to put his head in the fence.

BBS - I think you might be thinking late model E30 shift bush, the cup bush thing is one peice. You can see my early style shifter in the photo. Mine has a two peice cup, lower piece slides over the bush in the bottom of the shifter, upper peice has a spring and a metal cup washer, then a locking ring which need to all go down from the top (hence the two peice stick) Maybe I just need to cut em to get em on, or chop and weld the shifter back together

M10-150 I think. Its the big long bugger that goes at the bottom of the alternator with the loose nut on the end. It'd be the longest bolt on the engine by far, I cant find anything in the scratch box long enough. Chur!

How do I get the upper cup on to the new stick? The old stick splits in two, does the Z3 one split in half in the same way? I cant find a circlip on it too split it like the original, looks to be all molded together with the rubber internals. Theres no way the metal cup that holds the spring/upper bush will go up over the ball from the bottom. Im not following ya sorry.

After one of these if someone has one handy. Item 1 Long bugger that goes at the base of alternator with loose nut on the back. I cant find anything long enough in the bits box/local parts shop.

How does one get a Z3 gear shifter in two to install the new bush/spring/collar/circlip into an early E30? Old shifter splits in two with a locking ring in the base, new shifter seems to be one peice, but maybe its got some sorta hidden trick?

Day 2 - Cleaned up engine bay, removed some rust and excess brackets Finished off engine, realised im missing a bold (doh!), Changed all gearbox seals. Had a play with whiteline bars. Havent quite figured out how to get stick bushing etc onto new gearstick (z3), the old gearstick has a circlip to remove and split the stick in half to remove it all, but the Z3 shifter seems to be one peice Decided I might as well change the tierod ends while im at it, gonna drive like a new car by the end of it all

That flamin nascar thing is a biatch with a D-pad, I still havent even passed one of them! Nurburgring is easy enough to get silvers.

Needed urgently RH Wishbone lollipop bracket. Dont care about the bush, as long as the bracket is alll good. Item 7 p/n 31121139790

Day 1. Stripped Cleaned up lots of sh*t, gearbox took a few hours, epic rear seal fail, im amazed it was still changing gear due to how rooted the shifter bushings are. Took two hours to get the engine/box and driveshaft out Pressed out and pressed in new control arm balls (which is sh*t scary at some points on a dodgy press - bollocks protection recommended) and got them and the front sub frame back in.

Slightly lower spring rates at the back fixed it, not quite as go karty but doesnt bite like a biatch quite so bad! 1.32 around Trial mountain with less than 200hp, the best I could get with the M3 CSL was 1.4ish. Keen for an online race.

Whats the trick do reducing the snappyness of a mid engined car? Got the lotus europa moooovin (1:3~ on trial mountain with 170hp!), its a weapon, but she bites hard when it gets slightly pear shaped, snaps around too fast to catch it.