wild_weston

It is most likely the regulator. This is a really weak plastic part that fails all the time on the E46s. My rear drivers side was screwed when I bought it. They had removed the motor thinking it was that and never bothered to put it back. Got a new motor and then found out I needed a new regulator. Cost me around $600 to get fixed in the end (went to the stealership). There is a cheaper way though. Get yourself a new regulator (from hell bmw or ladies mile motors). Then check out the following link: http://www.skene.org/bmw/window/index.html Really usefull website for DIY stuff like this is: http://www.bimmerdiy.com/dir/e46 The interior of the door seems to be a bit of a pain to get off (and make sure you don't rip your vapour seal/ weather shedder). Other than that you should be fine. Good luck.

I work as a unit pricing consultant for a large financial services company Confused? I'll explain. I design financial services operations (back office as its called). Nearly all personal savings and retirement schemes (including kiwisaver) generally use unitised funds. It's my job to ensure that you get the right value for your savings and get it back promptly when you need it. Mainly involves designing operational processes and choosing, plus implementing, the right software applications. No company car for me - happy with my beemer so would turn down one anyway and take the money.

Definately sounds like it is linked to how your key is set up to your car. One of the options is two have all windows go fully down (plus sunroof open) if you hold down the open button. Either the car settings are getting triggered by something other than you key (which would be very worrying) or you are somehow pressing the open button and are not aware of it, or the settings in your car are set up incorrectly. The settings are held in the car (for each key). They charge about $50 to change the settings. If you do this make sure they give you a checklist so you get everything you want changed. When I got one thing changed for a new key I wasn't aware that there were all these other things I could choose and the dealer never told me (price of changing one thing is the same price as changing everything). Cheers

Already upto $17k. No longer a bargain. I like the coupe style but that light grey interior and wood really don't go together. First thing I would do as the new owner is replace all the wood effect. Second thing is to get different OEM wheels on it. Third fix the dent. Other than that it looks like ok. I heard about the "no revving during the pause" thing. I am now very carefull to make sure I don't do it.

Ok, tried Page European first - they were pretty adamant that it required BMW tools that they didn't have. I sent them all the instructions and they didn't need them, as you don't mess with the timing - just lock it into TDC. At least they were honest, they finally came back and said that they didn't think they could beat the stealership estimate (5 hours) because they hadn't done one before. Fair enough. This leaves me with the choice of a dealership quote of $1036 and powerhaus. I tried powerhaus and after they read the instructions they are happy to estimate three hours (parts supplier estimates 2+ for an experienced mechanic) so they are a lot closer. I did query the hours with the dealership, apparantly they always quote on hours from the germany supplied database, so no movement. Again fair enough. I think I am going to give powerhaus a go. Fingers crossed that I don't have an experience like Penrys. The chap seems pretty amiable on the phone. I'll let you know how it goes.

I read the sticky for Hell BM and gave them a ring for parts. They put me onto Ladies Mile for E46 parts. Don't know how good their range is, suppose it depends on what cars they have taken apart. Supplied the window motor no problems. I'm after a few small parts from them now which are a bit more model specific, I'll let you know how they get on. On this point, I really have to stop going to the stealership. Cost me $180 to get the window motor installed and they forgot to take out the putty holding the window in place (time to get out a lollipop stick and fish it out). Call me picky but when you pay that much you expect it to be perfect. Cheers

Thought about this one when I was buying my 330. Sent the bloke a couple of e-mails on it but never went to view. It's a dealer trade in (if I recall). A bit tatty round the edges but it is a steal for the engine alone (as long as it checks out ok). When I was looking it was at $14k and that seemed pretty cheap. $10k is ridiculously cheap for the reserve. The odd 330 comes along very cheaply (mine was $14k for a motorsport model). Should see a few more bargains coming up, what with the car market sales suffering. Cheers

Hi All, I've found a good place to pick up second hand parts for E46s. It's a place in Auckland called Ladies Mile Motors Co Ltd. I just picked up a window motor from them for $150 after being quoted $350 from the dealer. Now installed and it works fine. Just thought I'd share this with you as I had a bit of trouble finding secondhand parts for the later models. Their number is 0800 269 992. Cheers

Unfortunately I'm in wellington and use the car every day. Elmarco has a 330ci and a new member iball has a 330i. These are the only other 330s I know of (apart from yours). You might want to PM them to see if they can help. $1000 for a sensor is a bit crazy. Other option might be to try and find one in a scrap yard (rare I know) and see if they will only charge you to borrow it for a week. Good luck with your search.

It's because we're all a bunch of muppets! Nah really I think it's just an age thing. Everyone my age has fond memories of the muppets. About time they made a comeback if you ask me. Elmarco had the idea first, reminded me about how cool animal was - hence the avatar.

SUCCESS!!!!!!! Well on the third try anyway. Got the old one out and plugged in the new one. No power at all. So took it out again and compared everything to the old one. Also tried shaking the new one, was mildly concerned when another bit of black plastic fell out. Noticed that even though I had moved the plastic back into place around the fuse - the metal parts were still quite wide apart (in their grooves). Got a pin and after a bit of jiggling managed to get them close together again. Reinserted fuse and tried again. Everything is working fine now. Tried all the functions before I put everything back together. Looks a lot nicer in the dash and the sound quality has improved a bit. A big thank you to elmarco and particularily Jochen for all their help on this. This is the reason I joined the forum and it is paying dividends. Cheers

Did your beema blow up? Don't worry about it. a blue square is clean a red square is a warning. You have five blue squares. Iassume they notify you when you get a warning. I haven't had any. Theyonly give them to people when they are being unecessarily arsey. Trying to make sure that everyone plays nice together. I think they do a pretty good job as it is a very friendly forum.

From what I've read the two squares are in relation to how many posts you have made. You get a maximum of five. Can't remember how many posts equal one square. It just shows if you are a regular poster or not. The warn % is if you get in trouble with the moderators. You get awarded (?) one square each time as a warning. Don't know what happens when you get to five (maybe they blow up your beema).

Cheers for that. I think a bit more force was neeeded. Yeah, cool avatar. Took inspiration from yours. Had a discussion with the missus on grover. I said sesame she said muppets. Turns out we were both right. Super grover rules!

OK, have straightened the back of the unit out now and put new fuse in. Looking a lot better. Attached are the updated pics: The fuse seems stable enough. The slot on the right hide side had been forced apart but I think I have moved it back as far as I can now. Still one question outstanding from before: What's the tirck to getting the current radio detached from the big black connector in the car? Levered it up with a screwdriver last time and it got most of the way out but wouldn't move the final bit. Maybe I was being to gentle with it but don't want to break anything else. Got a day off work tomorrow so going to try the install again. Cheers

It is a ten amp (it says it on the fuse). I thought it was a plug at first (that's why I'm a newbie to all this. The guy has used scrunched up newspaper as packaging. There was lots of it but it's not the best for packaging. Seeing as it was in transit for 6 days before it even got to new zealand gives you some idea how much the packages move around. It must have been loaded and unloaded numerous times and one time it obviously got dropped.

Interesting. Mine does the same thing (shift down when braking on a hill). Guessed that that was the way the gearbox CPU was programmed to work. Doesn't really bother me but it would be nice not have it do it. Post an update when you have one on this. Could well be a sensor somewhere else that has gone funny. One thing I've really noticed since owning a E46 is that it tells you bugger all when sesnors fail. In comparison the e36 told you far too much (saying things had gone when they hadn't). I reckon the E46s need another warning light out on the dash ("sensor failed" light). BMW probably thought about this and decided not to - as it would be permanently lit! Might be a bit of a long shot but I posted a way I read about clearing the jacto gearbox in an e36. Didn't work for mine at the time. I got it off bimmerforums and it didn't state it was for the E36. Might try and give it a go in the E46 and see if that helps. Original solution: Turn you ignition key to setting 2 (instrument lights come on but car isn't started). Depress the accelerator all the way to the floor for 25 to 30 secs. At this point you should hear a slight noise, this is the automatic transmission cpu resetting. Then start the car (obviously take your foot off the gas first). Apparantly the car learns your driving style over the next thousand Ks and sets itself to that.

Yup, could do with a bit more luck lately that's for sure. Glad yours was all good though. The parcel does look like it has taken a knock on the corner. I've sent an e-mail to the seller already. If it doesn't fir properly tomorrow then I suppose I'll just have to get a replacement or a refund. Cheers

Point taken, I'll start being a bit more hands on. I've removed the old fuse (and all the bits of it I could find). I've also tried to straighten out the black plastic parts using needle nose pliers. It's looking a lot better now. I will try fitting it again tomorrow afternoon. I'll just use the fuse out of my current radio. Quick last question (hopefully), I was having trouble taking the black housing off the current radio before. I see that there are four circular holders outside the back of the radio fitting (on the black plastic). How do you get it to come off? Before I pulled the radio out as far as it would go (about 2 cms past the back of the radio) then I levered it up with a screwdriver. The holders moved most of the way, along their tracks, but I couldn't work out how it releases. Was I just being a bit too gentle with it or is there some trick to this? Thanks

Thanks for the, fairly, good news. I'll take it down to a stereo installer so they can swap the parts (fuse). I'll let you know how it goes. Yuen - it was received like that from a seller in america. Looks like it got damaged in the post.

Here are some pics of the damage. Can you let me know your thougts. Ta

Not sure why they would both stop working like that. I was told that they re-charge while plugged into the ignition. The battery should be a "whole of life" rechargable type. Only thing I would guess at is that your keys are not being re-charged while in the ignition (don't know what causes this). I did read in the owners manual that occasionally you should use a key on a long drive to ensure that the battery doesn't drain down. If you are doing multiple short trips this may cause the battery to drain. Hope this helps.

Went down to repco today but they didn't have the bosch ones. Went to super cheap auto and they did. They also cut them to legnth for me (passenger side only) and installed. All for $15. Super cheap always seems to be better than repco in my opinion. Thanks for the Bosch type Glenn. I now have silkly smooth and quiet window wipers again. Probably safe to drive in the rain at night now, could hardly see a thing in the rain last friday night. Cheers

Jochen, you truly are a guru. All of your help has been greatly appreciated. Cheers

Jochen, Totally agree on your band expander solution. If you scroll through bands then it also knocks the display out of line with the radio station paying (I would assume). None of my steering wheel buttons are illuminated or work. So do you think it might just be a blown fuse, would just plugging in an M3 wheel would automatically link up to the kbus, or do you think that further work is needed to get it all working right? Might be outside of your area but does having cruise control buttons enable cruise control or are extra parts needed? Cruise control ain't a biggie to me as they is hardly anywhere in NZ that you can use it (No long straight motorways). Thanks