advantex

Not to be a spoil sport, just make sure tints comply with WOF. Mine (put on last year aparently) did not and had to remove them all except for back window. There are many WOF stations that have tint meters now so it's no longer someone's opinion.

Buggar! I lived there for a while and know how wild it can get. Feel bad cause we got very little of it here.

Some people are gonna hate this! So, here is where I am at. I will probably use the WM4’s as rear speakers but will buy suitable quality others for fronts and tweeters – reason, spare B&W speakers would cost too much to fit, too much modification etc and this is a track I don’t want to go down. This is due to their physical size. Still to listen to Nakamachi, some upper end JVC’s, Clarion and a few other head units. So far I have been quite impressed. I wont deal with amp units until I have sorted what I am going to do with speaker selection. Same goes for sub (which I will install as advised in the rear arm-rest/ boot space area. Had five people listen critically to the system now which consists of Sanyo head, Pioneer kick area fronts, no dash tweeters and B&W WM4’s mounted on back shelf. Four gave the sound quality at 6~7 out of 10, one person gave it a 5 out of 10. That last person has won 4 awards recently for sound system in his vehicle (in NZ) – he was suitably impressed and his system of 14 speakers and 5 subs and has cost mega dollars. I will now look at 4 or 8 ohm speakers only and head and amps in a much more serious note, however now more resolute not to accept gimmick, sales talk, casual opinions or hear-say on sound quality. My independent sound test listeners rate the one and only modification I have made (replaced the rear speakers with B&W) very highly! Conclusion, use your ears to listen to the sound, not what other people tell you! Believe a tenth of what you read and then go substantiate that 1/10th anyway before making a financial outlay. Specs revised: Dash tweeters, 10†sub in rear armrest area, 5~6†kick area midrange, full range rears will be B&W WM4’s at this stage. Head unit to be simple but high quality CD/DVD player and must have accessible USB, CF card slot or built in hard drive. Head unit must know what a DVD-R is and be able to play it. Simple volume control/ Joystick type select function is all I require from head unit. I will then select appropriate amps, all to be class AB (no digital - class D) etc to match up the system. Budget now increased (assume rear speakers done) to $5000.

Na, you know too much and too valuable a member to get banned! Be daring - have a go, we might like it LOL.

Best mate got a Suzuki and a few of his other mates got BMW's. Thought he would be able to use this to poke shite at them - so passed the link on LOL. Quite well done I thought. Sure that man was on P or something similar.

Now that I did enjoy - good find

Great! Interesting concept, front wheel drive bike (or is that a head down arse up unicycle with a spare wheel?).

Would kinda like to know answer to this also. Looking at changing mine in the next year.

so kewl! I can imagine that real easy LOL

I have read some of these from other sources, including wikipedia so suspect most are true. Good one.

Not sure, haven't been there in a while.

bit of kiwi flavour

Had similar problem with 535. Was the sports/manual switch. Got stuck on highway in sports mode. Next morning I pulled switch out, did manditory wiggle and hard thump, shook the crap out of it and it worked fine after that.

Jerky mouse/ screen usually a sign of processor going hard out perhaps doing unnecessary stuff in the background. Could be graphics driver problem also. Could be both. Graphics drivers have been know to prevent standby and hibernation in the past, though rare these days. Have never found a case where the option would not attempt to work when you clicked it though. Usually tries to work and fails or works but you cant get back again. Can work through it probably, just be prepared to do complete reinstall if needs be. Back up your personal and important data asap. Don't forget to look through \Program Files as many programs store stuff there also (templates etc) and don't forget to back up your outlook or email folders in case you got important stuff there. Try fix display first: Get the properties of my computer (usually right click over the icon or word). It will display a tabbed dialogue box, one of the tabs is labelled hardware - go to that one second, go to System Restore make sure the the tick box is empty. Click Apply if you change anything then go to the hardware tab. A button perhaps (I don't know your setup type) called device manager, click that. A list box opens like an explorer view, click the plus sign next to Display Adaptors and see what your graphics processing device is - e.g. mine says NVIDIA GeForce 7800 GT. While in here, click on Monitors and make sure you have something suitable according to your display. Default monitor is usually OK in most machines. Also, right click over a blank part of your monitor and look at the properties. Go to Advanced and make sure you have a suitable resolution for your monitor ie. around 12~14" usually 600x800 resolution, 13~15" usually 768x1024, 17~20" usually 1024x1280 or something similar (depends if letterbox or widescreen). Frequency is usually 60 or 75Hz (sometimes 50). Go find the website of your graphics vendor (www.nvidia.com, www.ati.com etc). Look for the latest driver for your graphics, download it to a know location eg MyDocuments\Software\Graphics or whatever (make it up as you go) and save it. Shut down and restart before you continue (activates restore point). When restarted, double click the downloaded file it to install. Ignore all Micro$oft warnings, restart your computer once more when finished just to make sure everything gells into place correctly. Hopefully this fixes the jerky screen/ mouse reactions.

Better than a wife, she does exactly what I ask of her and never complains. I respect her and she looks after me. I don't ask more than she is capable of and she never complains. Always there, always willing for a good ride, only a small warmup needed before she is rearing to go. Looks good, not showing her age yet, sprints up hills like a teenager yet has poise, maturity, stability and don't half look bad she all polished up. Perhaps I should marry one!

May or may not work. Try using system resore to restore back to a much earlier point - you wont loose personal data but maybe any programs you may have installed recently. Sometimes it works, most times not but worth a crack. Unfortunatly you cannot successfully uninstall SP3 EDIT: Set a current restore point before you do this, just so you can get back to where you came from if it all turns to custard.

Loving the info I am getting here. I have to kinda agree with smaller subs (only for my purposes) and just for two reasons. Less physical size and less boom - I am not really into thumping bass 80% out of proportion to what it should sound like in reality anyway. Sound travels at the speed of sound. Sound reflections (echo effects, revibrations, ressonance etc) because of environment can cause a bad effect. Real-sub-base is not critical because of such a low frequency, it can even be 180degrees out of phase and have little impact on the overall sound depending on the crossover point. Some will argue with this but in reality the ear can seldom tell the difference beacause you can't hear low frequency "sub"-base, you can only feel its effect and its effect comes from the environment you are sitting in - hard to control anyway. Smaller subs tend to respond a bit better to mid-range low frequency. T.H.X for example reccomends a crossover at 80Hz and below this is where the mid-ranges should have some performance likewise so should the sub be able to perform above this. Still looking. Most of what I have found to date is sales crap and people who have been given a job two levels above their competency and knowledge - but still looking all the same. Edit: Thanks!!!! where did that come from? Dam HTML thinking for me - changed to T.H.X

story2: Guess we gotta watch out for food being Man-ipulated - LOL.

This won't help mate but dont install SP3 (yet) - especially on a laptop. According to ZDnet SP3 it is still having issues though Micro$oft are being very quiet about it. Most people (including a large company I contract to) are having huge problems with the update from a month (or further) back. Hibernation, powersettings, drivers, video cards etc etc are still issues - mainly hardware driver vs Microsoft requirements it would seem.

Thanks, going in for full service next week. I will get them to check it all. Appreciated.

Welcome, paint job won't be cheap but if you anything like me you will end up spending more money on your car than it is worth. What price do you put on bimmer-love? I have got very attached to mine. edit:spelling

I did notice after a few decent trips that going around corners in these bimmer things is way different to my old Toyota. On trip to Tauranga I cut 15min off my usual time – no speeding, no hard driving. It’s not how fast you go, its how quickly you get there – in safety and comfort… but in saying that, I also have less and less of that "wooshing" sound as cars go flying past me either LOL

Was a bit hard to tell on the concrete - found the morning after. Very small leak perhaps a few mils per day at most. Only had ramps at time and it was a bit hard to determine where it might be coming from. Mate suggested it looked/felt a bit like fluid from steering pump - why I made that comment. It did leave a slight green/yellow shade on the outer edges of the drip spot if that is any help.

Very small drips coming from motor. Central, about midway between radiatior and motor. Feels oily but not oil. Any suggestions? Steering pump perhaps?

Well, so far it seems you can start to get something somewhat decent from $800 upward – listening/reading to all your advice and still looking. I got a few more places to visit yet. There are a lot of models available. Kenwood coming back into the auto market again – they always used to have reasonable stuff in the past but times have changed – any comments? In the weekend, I tore out the rear speakers. They were totally stuffed and probably why they sounded so crappy. I hooked up the WM4’ just sitting them on the rear head rests. What an incredible difference! Sub might be an advantage, just not sure where to mount it. Any suggestions that don’t “disfigure†the interior?