williams

no 9 is the filter for the vanos, vanos does run on engine oil but off the vanos oil pump is in the vanos which pumps the pressure up to 100 bar if i recall,there is also an accumulator connected to the unit for backup round the side of the motor(the size and shape of a v-can), just a bit of useless information-there is a beautiful rolls royce badge on the front of the vanos unit

on e36 the clutch fluid and brake fluid come from the same container? im quoting only what we have done at a bmw dealership in south africa,

vanos unit is basically the same as m50 in working,thatis the way it is fitted,the other BIG money is the vanos valves -the wires are very small and hard by now, have you replaced the small vanos filter in the housing??(5 allen key)

for reliability id go for the m5, they never had any recalls on engines (that i can recall) as the e46 m3 had a bearing problem -''which was solved with the replacement of bearings and a higher volume oil pump''

325 +328 have helper springs on the clutch pedal(almost like a valve spring) to help depress the pedal from about half way, the best way to bleed the clutch is with a pressure bleeder, you should have a look at the rubber pipe to the slave cylinder -could be that it has a weak place? you could even use a solid pipe instead of rubber(was a e36 m3 3.2 mod to help raise the clutch contact point -as they were very close to the floor) the main reason for the grabbing could be the dual mass flywheel-as a normal clutch plate has springs in it and these dont

328 have a clutch restrictor(very small hole) in the clutch line where the rubber pipe fits on to the steel pipe for the slave cylinder,this will cause your car to have clutch slippage when changing hard and dropping the clutch,is was done to save the driveline- can be removed(be carefull when driving when wet if removed), as for the hard pedal, normally due to aging of the pressure plate

m3 vanos is very sensitive to being assembled correctly,the timing of vanos and cams are even more sensitive,one tooth out(camshaft) and u will never get the best performance out of the motor,these motors are even more sensitive than a woman about their weight!!

chassis no is etched into the body and not the plastic

have you checked just above the rear bonnet gutter under the windscreen?

to set the time use a pointed pin in the recess at bottom right,set time -make sure it is set 24h00,after setting press recess again,to change time to am/pm -select fuel consumption eg 10l/100 depress recess the display should change in the 00

normal bulbs are blown =dull display(not easy to replace) if it is flickering ---- then the time has not been set plain black button could be windows trip switch,depress it see if windows are working? fuel gauge jumping around -would have to remove cluster fasten the nut on back of fuel gauge=earth can do the heat gauge aswell while u are busy

the three beeps could possibly be the warning for the hour signal normally 20 sec before the hour,if your car has a onboard monitor check if there is a ))) sign in the top corner

next to the engine no it will be specified if it is 1,8 or 1,9l

have u removed the 2 bolts that are situated in the g/box bell housing?

make sure u get the brackets(fasten with 3 bolts) with the lights as the brackets are different

bottom left-possible coolant level low??

if you dont drive long distances often i would suggest u buy a trickle charger to keep the battery at its peak,when driving around town the alternator does not recharge the battery enough(for fuel economy reasons),-these batteries are only charged to about 80% as a norm,putting around town makes the problem worse!!

behind cubby-blue relay,open and solder dry joint, later window switches have leds,so that they dont get hot or blow-make sure u get the same colour(bottomside)you can just take off the top to see if they have leds,happy hunting

check your fuel pressure regulator-the chances of it being the fault are good since the engine was sitting for a while

when doing time belt on m40 engines and u have loosened the pulley the cam timing needs to be set again, put the crank on top dead centre,make sure the cam is rocking on cylinder 1 or 4 (there is a square on the front of cam) make sure it is level with the head,tension up the cambelt and lock it. then u can lock the cambolt,be sure to turn the motor 360 deg to recheck timing marks-this is done so that the cam timing will always be 100%

yours has a cable which becomes sticky-best to replace and ur uncles car is fly by wire

all petrol engine bearings are the same size only m3 e36 slightly bigger

dumb question-when u fill the coolant/water and start the car does the water squirt into to bottle from the small breather pipe?if not then the hole might be blocked it is very difficult to clear this problem(8mm pipe to a 2mm hole in the bottle) ,and u say that there is alot of air when u bleed it afterwards-this will also not show the correct temp on the gauge as the gauge needs water to supply the right temp reading- so all in all if the bleeding pipe is blocked then ur car will have these symptoms

most bmws have a high tone and a low tone horn installed-that will give u a ''manly'' sound,from age and water one usually packs-up

after u have checked the relay make sure u secure it again-the right way up,as this works in an accident to unlock the doors(if they were locked)and if u just fit it back upside down then it can cause the central locking servos to try and unlock the whole time causing them to burn out!!