williams

low battery voltage on start-up can cause this

try locking and unlocking the car from the r/f door barrel with the key,if one of the functions dont work then the door barrel is broken( problem)could cause the relay module to get damaged,if the remote stops working its a problem to get the car open

have u tried adjusting the idle down?idle screw sits on the throttle from tappet cover side,and the possible sound could be that u'r prefeed pump isnt working(low pressure)

m52 2.8l crank fits perfectly into m20 block,oil seal ring on the front of the crank and cut the shaft to m20 length and use the m52 bolt as the threads are deeper into the crank-all bearings are the same size

all e30 manual p/f or f/l g/boxes fit,the manual pedals have a longer bolt at the top,there is a prepunched mark in the body for the slave cylinder,the feed line has a grommit in it that needs to be removed,the only major difference is the propshaft centr bearing,hope that helps

sounds like its a pressure problem(fluid),start the car run for a few minutes,switch off-select 1st gear(make sure u have space to drive)the car should takeoff when u crank-if the clutch is good, gears can be changed at about 3500rpm (without pedal),if the clutch plate is worn the car wont move.

from previos experience the pressure piston in the g/box breaks causing harsh change,the newer boxes have an upgraded piston-let us know if this is the case!

there should be a temp sensor in the r/f front under the bumper,sounds like it is missing-this has a direct effect on the working of the a/c heater function.

all depends on the wear in the engine and how hard you want to boost-found it best to blockoff the breather between the intake and block(m3 shim fits perfectly in block)-when the boost was pushed up oil was forced out of the seals,you could even plumbit back into the air cleaner as this would suck the oil fumes and burn them

women in short skirts wont buy this kinda car door-the same reason why suicide doors are not popular

try swopping tyres back to from to see if the pulling is still the same!! they could have swopped tyres left to right thats why its pulling in the opposite direction...could be a defect in a tyre, even new tyres can have problems

if your car has aircon check the compressor and pipes,would cause a vibrating noise in engine bay

when u do the locking with the remote it puts the central locking on double lock,when u unlock the car manually then the alarm horn should sound,

do u have the fault code that the car showed?does the engine have a missfire on start-up-then this could be the fault.eg...if the horse has a limp then the cart will have a limp!!

can u please contact me 02102567877($2000 then i will take it)

just phone ur nearest bmwdealer they should be able to open it from the boot wiring

rear wheel drive cars normaly have toe-in as the car gets pushed from the rear they tend to open up-front wheel drives are toe-out as the front wheels pull in when u accelerate,the main reason when a car is lowered the camber becomes more is due to SAI and KPI ''has to remain the same''-not good for tyre life but good for cornering, example-e36 with 17inch wheels and lowered suspension=excessive tyre wear on inside,all bmw's have a ''standard ride height'' for the spec given by bmw

check firing order-it runs when 2 cylinders are the wrong sequence(a bit lumpy)

add m40 pistons and ur compression ratio shoud be about 8.5-purrrrfect for turbo=it works well!!

what globes are in the park light? if any of the globe's resistance change-different wattage then the cluster will show fault...if a park light is out then the indicator will be on on that side

inspection 1 should be: oil+filter,airfilter,s/plugs,micro-filter(when dirty it restricts all airflow into vents)and a through check of the car, only difference to insp 2 -diff oil(from 95 long life oil),brakes and v-belt when needed, make sure brake flush is done at least every 2years and good quality coolant ever 4 years-dont forget to check tyre pressure is set in BAR not psi(tyre wear)

if the other car was a 6 cyl then the cluster should work-not sure about the plug no's... the plug ur refering to is it the white connecter in the bottom of the dash?then that is the relay holder

the tacho wire might be disconnected as the 4cyl and 6 cyl signal are different(pulses) most clusters have a coding plug which tells the tach if its a 4 or 6 cylinder start by checking if ur car has the original cluster?as for reverse lights theyre not a wof issue...what colour wires are in the relay holder?

how high does the handbrake pull up? if it pulls up high the the rear wheels should be adjusted first-as they take up alot of fluid thus could cause a low or soft feeling pedal(pull the handbrake halfway up press the brake pedal-are they better? while driving) make sure all bleeding nipples are at the top!!