cainchapman

That blower brings the 4lt up to about 300kW. So a lot of money for not a great return. I'd save a little more and buy an E39 M5. However for a 7 series, maybe it would be worth it.

www.germanplates.com

Haha, but it could well have been his Pimp's car given the interior colour scheme.

Testing for Nitrogen is easy. You test for the depletion of Oxygen. I am happy to assist in the supply of this for the administrators of the class. However, they are better to advise people of how to fill their tyres to gain consistancy across the class, rather than spend money policing a very small issue. Hydrogen makes up 0.5ppm of the composition of Air, so has no effect at all. There are real benefits to using Nitrogen in Aircraft (much higher pressures and generally around really hot stuff) so when a tyre blows, you don't want 7-20 bar of Oxygen in large volumes around. And in the trucking industry as the tyres degrade slower and pressure leakage is reduced. However, race tyres don't have these issues. Brochure_Pac_7000.pdf

OK, the 318iS has better performance and is a better balanced car. But it needs to be flogged to get it moving and struggles to pass wind. I'd look at the torque figures rather than the horsepower. A good E30 318iS is a much better buy, but they are like rocking horse sh*t.

Conrad's answer is more correct Sam. The main reason is the water component. Your first point about Nitrogen be less permeable is correct, however, in the real world. No-one cares. The tyre pressures are checked and adjusted between races. Points 2 and 4 are correct, it is not due to the characterstics of Nitrogen, but the water content (and Oxygen in point 4). Point 3 is completely false. Nitrogen has a lower thermal co-efficient than Oxygen, so Air heats slower than pure Nitrogen. If you trot down to BOC and buy a cylinder of Compressed air, it contains about 10 parts per million (ppm) of water vapour. This is not significantly different to purchasing a cylinder of Anhydrous Nitrogen. So both will have similar thermodynamic performance. But it very different than going down to the Petrol Station or using the sh*t air compressors you can buy from any Auto-supply store. The breathing air standard deems water vapour must be less than 150ppm to give you an idea of how good the BOC cylindered air is compared to atmospheric. Anyway, my point was, banning a class from using Nitrogen will not penalise the larger teams, only the smaller ones. We always have cylindered air or Nitrogen at a race, so tyre pressures are fairly consistent.

The 318iS, hands down. Asking about whether the 318 or 320 motors are better is like asking if you'd prefer to sleep with Ruth Richardson or Helen Clark

OK, Conrod & Sam (who googled his answer). If I banned you from using Pure Nitrogen to fill your tyres (can't ban it, as it comprises 78% of Air), what would you do?

Technical Books in Newmarket

OK, this should maybe be posted in the race forum as I am specifically looking for answers as it relates to Motorsport. It is for another National Class of racing, so I'll post it here. I have been doing research, so I'm keen to see what the popular reasoning is out there, before I respond. Filling your race tyres with Nitrogen. Why do you do it?

Lovely collection. That Convertible is mint!

I'd have you banned for neglecting the English language first. Nothing wrong with owning a turbo charged skatebaord.

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....&hl=autocar Here it is.

Buy my car.

The 1166 dust far less than the OEM Pagid pads. And 3pedals is correct on their performance. Better than average from cold and great when warm. I have no idea what they are like compared to other pads. I've not heard great things about the EBC, so avoided them. They seem to be the APC (un-interruptible power supply) of the brake market. The best marketers, so more people buy them.

If you lose your licence. You start from scratch again. Otherwise it is a roll-on, roll-off system. If you get a ticket on 1 Jan 2004, it will disappear on 31 Dec 2005. And so on. You can live eternally on 2 tickets. Just remember when you accumulate them. If you work on them being worth 35 points (as they used to be) you should keep your licence.

I'd stick with the OEM rotors and upgrade the pads. Mine has Mintex 1166 from Racebrakes. However, buy the best your wallet will allow. Buying better tyres will also improve your braking ability.

Fight the bastards Ollie. I agree it's the principle of it, not the value.

Definitely won't be at Big Boys Toys. It's already left Australasia. Bummer, otherwise I'd make the effort to go.

Only 500 to be built. Like the Enzo, purchase is by application and acceptance, not just because you can afford it. Sydney Motor Show (cell phone pic)

4.7l V8, 337kW & 470Nm No GTV is that good. I do agree they are a great car.

Hopefully, there will be one in the country in the next 18 months. Until then, enjoy.

Beautiful! Well worth the effort.

Well, what can I tell you about it? It is a lovely car. 6 speed electro-mechanical manual transmission. 4.2 litre V8, 295kW, 451Nm. This one is is go faster Sport GT model with the 20" wheels and big brakes. The little knob in the centre console is for selecting either forward gears or reverse. Foot on the brake and lift and pull back for reverse or foot on the brake and push forward for Drive. Everytime you start the car, it selects Auto gearchanging. Manual can be selected, or you can just ping it down gears manually in the Auto mode and fly passed someone and then it reverts to Auto. If you hit the sport button, it stiffens up the suspension and gives a blip of the throttle on down shifts (sounds great). On the sound, it's very quiet inside and definitely sounds better from outside (disappointing). Steering is vague and the brake pedal lacks feel. The brakes are magnificent though and hauls the car up in no time. Stereo wasn't grand. 0-100kph in 5.2 sec and 12.7 sec 0-400m. It is quick and a great cruiser. However, not really a performance car. More luxury GT. $280,000 in this spec.