Forrest

Jumped the fuel pump relay, fuel pump turns on but no start still, replaced main dme relay also. Getting over this pretty fast now, really need a multimeter. Is my next port of call the crank sensor?

http://www.radiolemans.com/ has english commentary that if you mute the sound in the video you can have english commentary

Reasonably common conversion now, especially in the UK, plenty of chips around to get around all the immobilisers etc to run a standard ecu and plug in and play in a E30.

^ Have checked this but will double check later, remember its a FL so the wiring is slightly different. And yip going to try jump the fuel pump relay in the morning see if it makes a difference, otherwise I'm sure I'm missing a earth somewhere, still got no icv hum etc. When I removed the 2nd SA fuel tank I unplugged the control box and wiring associated with it, would that break the entire circuit for fuel? I was under the assumption they were two separate circuits? Can anyone shed some light? Ta

Okay so I got it to crank. Further research found that I could remove the starter inhibitor relay (underneath the glove box, and jump pins 30 and 87. It now cranks and wants to catch but I don't think there is any fuel, I can't hear the fuel pump prime briefly when I turn the key on, will check the fuel pump with a multimeter in the morning, anyone think of anything else I have missed?

Having issues getting this to crank at all post manual conversion. Turn key, ign turns on, but no fuel pump, TPS click etc, ICV humming but I am getting the K5 unloader relay click at the fuse box. I have followed this diagram in terms of bypassing the auto inhibitor switch: http://www.slidewaysonline.com/images/E30M...anualwiring.gif but it isn't doing anything. Can anyone shed some light on what I have missed? All the obvious earths etc are back as they were, have double checked the c101 connector and I am getting mains power to the starter motor, unsure about the black yellow solenoid wire but the connection seems fine between starter motor and ign switch wiring. Is there a relay I can bypass to get it to start or a wire I can splice direct to the starter motor from the c101 connector? Much like this? http://forums.eurocca.net/showthread.php/3...4490#post454490 (Written under the problem solved bit). Don't really want to splice engine loom unless I have to. I have a feeling there is more to it than the inhibitor switch wiring but I can't be sure. Any help? and thanks in advance

^ Pretty much, I live in Tawa

The Shark was another similar one in silver that used to live near me, instead of Mitsubishi badging it had "SHARK", custom overboard everything much like the one above, spinners etc, just as bad as each other.

^ Hey mate, pm me your number I seem to have misplaced it. Also after a drivers side coupe door seal and a PFL coupe door and front guard rubbing strip for the drivers side. And Ray, if I have no luck I will be in touch. Cheers, Nathan

First post and title updated, and I am also after a RHS PFL coupe door rubbing strip/trim. And Jon if I have no luck else where I will probably use a PFL one and will be in touch. Ta Thanks

Done - best of luck Lawrence

The allen key is for if your electric windows fail, you pop the round circle cover off the door card and the allen key will fit into the head and you can manually wind the window up or down

As above, Obviously the metal panel, don't mind driving to Palmerston North for one, don't care for color just want it straight. PM or post here. Thanks, Nathan

Delrin is fine for a road car unless your a wuss or a moaning old git. Kerry sources a quality product and are well recommended by me.

If you use the complete engine loom, key and transponder from the E36 engine the wiring side should be fine, then just adapt the loom at the C101 (fuse box plug) to get the rest of the car to go. This thread has rekindled my desire to do this conversion. From a quick look on m42club the exhaust manifolds look easy enough to modify to go around the steering rack if you know someone handy with a welder. Best of luck and let us know how you get on. You can use your current M40 rubber engine mounts too.

Offset ones are to add camber

PFL m20b25's have the hi compression motor, aim on finding on of those, less hassle with cooling system and wiring.

Welcome to the forum, Popular conversion in the UK because they got a ton of 318is'es over there to act as donors, where as over here we got 20 or so. Also the US had heaps of m42 engined 318's so plenty of donors. I have looked into doing this before, but found it to be a lot of hassle to do with a E36 engine unless you can get around the EWS etc in a E36 loom. From memory it needs either E30 M42 exhaust manifold or a custom mainfold as the E36 M42 exhaust manifold won't clear the E30 steering rack. In the UK a few people have converted e36 m42 engines with a e30 m42 loom to make install easier, I can't imagine there would be many e30 m42 looms lying around here, unless you went to aftermarket engine management. From memory you need to use the E30 M40 sump on the E36 M42 to clear the steering rack. Interested to see how you get on, this would be the ultimate conversion for my E30. The m42club website Silverfox posted is highly recommended, a ton of info in there. Have a look on e30zone.net too, is atleast one guy who built a m42 2.1 stroker with a modified m44 head, iirc 220hp at the wheels There was also someone on here converting a E30 with a E36 M42 a while ago, unsure if he ever got it going.

Try cleaning the contacts in the white door plug that goes between the door and the body, will be under a rubber boot, they get corroded easily

Even I remember seeing this on the news at age 4 RIP

Check and try another central locking control unit, its behind/underneath the RHS front speaker

Hey Oli, Dad wants this if you still have it, will be in touch this week

My car has a bent rad support like that, I have no issues getting a warrant or a cert either. And I guarantee there are a sh*t ton more on here that get WOF's with it like that too. Painting it blue probably doesn't help...

Are you sure this is right? or does it depend on the circumstance? I got charged with dangerous driving when I wrote my old E30 off after failing to stop, only got 30 demerits and a decent 400/500$ fine, no suspension. Bad luck on the charge man, live and learn, could have been a lot worse.

^ Safe cars too, my mate got clipped on the motorway over easter, went up a bank, rolled 3 times and walked away without a scratch. He struggled with finding parts for his too since a lot of it is iX specific obviously. His had fubar-d front cv's and rooted shocks all round, the prices to replace was astronomical, he ended up just living with it.