Forrest
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Everything posted by Forrest
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Hey everyone, I am after a E36 Coupe right drivers window guide seal. See picture here: http://realoem.com/bmw/showphoto.do?id=51321977683 Only need the right side in good condition. Runs behind and around the wing mirror and down the window inside the door on the metal channel. Coupe and sedan are different, I need a coupe one please. $100 + to buy a brand new one Price shipped to Wellington please if your not local. Cheers, Nathan
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Any really cheap but straight and true E36/E46 wheel sets in 17' in roughly 7 - 8 inch wide? Don't need tyres or to be pretty, just some cheap track wheels
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^ Need the NZ new type, how much are they worth? Really need a spoiler in the same color, otherwise I will just get my own re-painted. Cheers
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Hey, I am after these bits, more than happy to pay for postage from around NZ to Wellington. - M50 plastic fan shroud, in mint condition - Coupe rear spoiler in Diamondschwarz Metallic like this (or similar), in mint paint condition: - Drivers door, coupe door card like this (happy to pay for both sides) must be in mint condition, black with black vinyl insert Cheers, Nathan
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Hi, I need a pair of E36 M52 exhaust manifolds, the cheaper the better, and I am willing to pay for the shipping to get them here from Auckland etc. I am also on the hunt for a E36 M50 vanos bare block if anyone has one lying around. PM me. Cheers, Nathan
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PM'd James. Anyone think if it is worth doing the anti rattle bearing at the same time? Mine isn't noisy...yet.
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Looks like this is the next big job to sort on the E36. Convinced it's the cause of a few of this issues I have with the driveability of the car. I note that for an M50 it is quite different than replacing them on a M52 or M54. Has anyone splashed out on the cam locks, crank pin, sprocket tool etc etc as shown in this DIY: http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/va...e_procedure.htm If anyone has done it without the tools...I would be interested in hearing your experience, I don't want to grenade my motor though. Also if anyone knows how much labour a specialist would take to do this that would be fantastic. I am looking to buy the seals regardless from Besian, and will either attempt a DIY (it doesn't look to complicated once you have the proper tools) or take the seals to an expert and get them to replace them. Any insight or help would be fantastic. Cheers, Nathan
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M88, 5speed and a roll cage
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^Cheers. The door cards are all pretty good, the drivers one is separating at the top a touch which will need to be repaired, headliner is mint, the car hasn't been used much in the last few years according to Carjam. Sweet, I will look into those limiters. I am getting a bit of a erratic idle and it does lack a bit down low, definitely going to sort those vanos seals out at the least, it doesn't rattle or anything so I am hoping just the seals should be enough. And Blair, I still have the M325i to entertain my E30 love...
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Hey everyone, Picked this up a while ago and took some pictures but didn't get round to posting them on here, until now. 1994 E36 325i Coupe NZ New 135k Manual M50 w vanos Leather Bilsteins w Eibach's all round 16 x 8 Style 42 vII's w RE001's Replica Motorsport front bumper and lip Brought it from Turners for a steal to find something a little more refined and practical than a obnoxious and bumpy E30. All it needed was a rear wheel bearing replaced and it flew through a WOF. Planning on using it everyday and joining in on a few Intermarque/Play Day track days next year. Have a bunch of things planned to sort on it and have brought just haven't had time to fit including valve cover seals, rear window seals, door handle seals, microfilter, fix the AC and put in a Z3 shifter. When I have the valve cover off I am going to look at the vanos, when it comes on power it pulls well, but it is occasionally hesitant, does this sound like a sticky solenoid? And am I best to do the seals at the same time? The only thing I have replaced is the stuffed factory tape player and put in a subtle Nakamichi head unit that is a good match to the factory BMW orange back lights. Future plans include getting the front bumper and rear wing resprayed, urethane control arm bushes and trailing arm bushes, some heavy duty rear shock mounts, hopefully sort a proper europlate, some track day appropriate brake pads, extra set of wheels and semi slicks for track days, debaffle the airbox and add a K+N panel filter and add some sort of headers (NZ new means no cats already = WIN) for a tiny bit more noise. Cheers all.
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Thanks all for the help
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Sweet, thats what I wanted to know, I just want a bit more noise, and they can be picked up cheap as chips. So just a straight bolt on job? Which exhaust manifold gaskets did you use? I assume the m52 ones
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Looking so perfect Tony, great job
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Hi, Would M52 328 exhaust manifolds bolt straight onto the rest of a M50 325 exhaust system? Or am I better to use the whole 328 exhaust, does it flow any better? Cheers
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Alternatively... http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/...2C%20Each%20%20 Also shipping will be about 70$NZD flat rate so fill it up if you can. That is a lot cheaper than $700.
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All sold, mod can delete Cheers
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I have the good rear shocks (Boge Turbo's) with shock mounts and M325i rear springs that I can throw in for a little extra?
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Bump again for first post edit, shoot me a offer before it all goes on trademe at $1 res
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Thanks Ray, will be in touch when I need one
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Hi, Just fishing for the moment... whats the price bracket on one of these? Cheers, Nathan
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Bump for first post edit, need to pay for a pelican order, low ball me
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Thanks Matt, didn't even think to look. Still after a rear spoiler if anyone can help. Cheers.
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Glad you enjoyed the drive home Dietmar, just goes to show how economical a well maintained manual M20 is.