Forrest

^ I have thought this. It does go on three wheels pretty easy on the track... Maybe I should just deal with it...haha

Ya I am running a 23mm Whiteline on the front, thoughts? The front is really nice and tight but the rear is loose as a goose atm.

No comfort issue now, I am going balls out The car as is, is pretty twitchy in the wet, especially with the rebuilt LSD in it, I actually get scared driving it in the rain. I might try some kings and also pull off the ARB and see if there is any improvement, I think the addition of the strut braces and less weight in the back is heightening the twitchyness and floatiness I am feeling along with the bouncing. I remember reading somewhere lately that if the car is soft, it is more of a spring issue rather than a dampening issue. Nothing like trial and error. Cheers guys.

Sorry mate count me out. Have been meaning to pm you.

The rear half only of the car is stripped due to the move to a drivers harness, the front looks factory. So I would want a set up to counteract a lighter rear end and a virtually as normal front end set up. The rear does sit alot higher also due to the different spring drop front vs rear also, a 60mm spring would even it out if that makes any difference in terms of dropping the center of gravity in the rear lower to the road.

Hmm true, your more of a expert than me. Yup got a LSD, want to be careful with the ARB though, many of the race series guys don't run em.

^ Cheers for that Jon, much appreciated. Well I don't want to replace the shocks as they are brand new, and I don't know the age of the springs(could probably find out, this car has had about 5 bimmersport owners), so would rather change the springs. I know that H+R's and Jamex's are the softest (from talking to a few people). Silly question but should there be a certain way up the rear springs should go? From my eyes they looked symmetrical but I can't be so sure, so maybe that isn't helping things. Better option would be to go to coilovers but can't afford that at this stage. Hmm, just need to find out the hardest spring rate for a rear E30 spring now. Oh and to behonest, firming up the dampening in the rear seemed to make it worse, thats according to the bum-dyno. I will try them on full hard but I have been warned to be careful when having them like that on the road.

No idea how old the springs are, might just be worth replacing them, want to think at the moment they have just softened pretty bad. Any other ideas are appreciated.

^ It is also freakin fast. Was at a track day me and a few of the other guys on here were at last year. Spotted a silver e34 m5 on oriental parade and a lach's e30 touring with mtech 2 front around mt vic while I was out training before.

Okay so I need some suspension experts help with the set up in my E30 track car. Currently while I am driving on any road (mostly noticable on motorways) that is not flat as a pancake, the rear of the car is bouncing up and down on any sort of imperfection. Kind of hard to explain, but it feels like I am driving a car that has cut springs or no shocks in the rear haha. Another member on here followed me on a back road the other night and he said it looked really soft and wallowy in the rear. Also have noticed it getting worse as the rear of the car is now stripped, so less weight sitting on the rear wheels. My current set up in regards to suspension is as follows: Eibach 60mm front, 40mm rear Front and rear strut braces Koni adjustiable front and rear (3-4000km old) Urethane sway bar mounts Urethane subframe mounts etc etc wank wank wank The springs in the rear are defintely captive, when I brought the shocks the rebound needed to be lengthened as there was only 20mm travel once bolted in and I need a trolley jack to compress the spring enough to bolt the shock onto the trailing arm. I have fiddled around with adjusting the hardness settings on the rear shocks and also tyre pressures but it doesn't seem to be getting any better. Do I need to try a harder spring in the rear? i.e King Spring, also are there any negatives to mixing spring brands front to back? Because the front is perfect as is. Is there any way to find out the spring rate of the current Eibach springs? Any help or pointers are appreciated. Cheers, Nathan

If it is too good to be true, it usually is....

Don't totally take my word for it, wait for a expert to enter there thoughts here.

The Borb's were a mission to fit and they were barely 'factory fit', even if you wanted OE sized tyres eg 205 or 215/50 you will still more than likely have issues with those archliners. I had 205/55 with a ET15 wheel, 60mm drop in the front and it crunched the front guards, and that setup would more than likely rub in the rear on a touring becuase of the FL guards and the fact there is alot more weight over the rear wheels. In essence you will struggle to fit a 225 and keep archliners etc even if you nail the offset, but that is just my relatively inexperienced opinion. What profile are the 225's?

Bags all the door rubbing strips if they are unpainted and the tailights if have no cracks. will catch up soon Oli.

Personally you have 3 options: - Take it to a pro who actually knows what they are doing - Shelve the car for 3 - 6 months and save up for a Link and do it properly first time - Do some more research and come back when you don't want to just throw money at it willy nilly. Don't bother selling the car, as with me and as Mark247 said, our cars are worth far more in parts. I would probably never sell my car complete as is.

Just make sure you check caliper clearance

For an E30, I am after: Beige carpet, ideally in as tidy condition as possible, floor mats can only hide so much... A prefacelift front valance, not fussed on paint condition or color just as long as it has no dents. Prefacelift tailight seals if anyone has any that aren't torn apart. Cheers, Nathan

This is true though.

I would stick to trade me if you want to actually sell something, there are only 40 ish regular members on here, not exactly your biggest market.

Slightly OT, but a mate pointed me into the direction of this: you can download the entire documentary/movie on itunes, looks seriously badass, I don't think it ever got released here?, been out for a year.

Just get the control arms and struts 'persuaded' like Luke did

Nah just more money than brains

I like this guy.

Very nice car, looks like it is in good hands. Well done.

^ I would say no more than $20, I would pay the difference if it was anymore anyway. Cheers