bravo

So, to summarise: the m20 motor from an 88-90 e34 525i will bolt straight in. After that they had the m50 motor which involves a fair bitmore work to fit, and before that they had the m30 which is way more torquey but lacks the power and response of the m20.

There was a v5 Link on TM the other day for a $500 start bid poss no res. Or a brand new v5 (not the new G2, just an unused v5) for $956

Haha riding on the skirt tails. Liking it.

No - you don't sound fussy. NEVER buy anything less than exactly what you want - there a dozens of cars out there (even e36 m3's!) and so you owe ti to yourself to buy the best.

My old 320 was bought with 97,000 and sold with 115,000. i did cambelt, waterpump, plugs, and all regular maintenance. motor mounts, manual conversion with all new "consumables". New owner got a tight car. 325 was bought with 193000, currently 195000. Have done cambelt, water pump, motor mounts, front cam seal, wheel bearing, and a few other bits and pieces. smokes just a tad and power steering needs attention.

Here Not as useful as I remember. What you do is pull the motor out and take the plastic cover off the electrical contacts, give them a clean,remove excess grease (there is way too much and that's what causes the probs) and ensure the contacts make good contact and then replace. Use the bentley manual for instructions on how to correctly remove the motor.

Although I agree with the sentiments of those against public airing of the fooage - noone made a song and dance when we looked at pics of a charred Lambo owner a week or so ago. Just because the person isn't famous doesn't remove their rights not to have that broadcast around the world. If that was acceptable to be posted with a suitable warning so those not interested can look away, then so should anything else of a similar nature. Censorship aint as asy as it seems is it?

Agreed

Click on the images for larger view.

Dirty contacts inside the wiper motor. There's a how-to on the e30 network somewhere. I'll find you a link tomorrow when I'm at my work computer - its a damn fiddly job to do and takes patience, but it should fix it.

Pics will get you more bites. If I hadn't seen the word dish I wouldn't even be writing this unless I'd seen a pic. PM'd you my email addy. If you don't know how topost pics up I'll do it for you and also email you back instructions for next time.

Bet you were shocked. Bloody arse bandits at it again. I am so lame.

Who did you ring for the kit - sounds pricey. Kit usually has extra gaskets and seals you'll need. Should be more or less enough to do a top end rebuild. So you may want to find out exactly what you need just for what you need to do. It may be everything as you may as well do camshaft seals etc while you have the thing apart. I've havn't done an e36 head gasket so I'm probably not the best one to ask re: specifics for e36's but I imagine that it'll be mush the same as the skyline ones I've been party too in which case, by the time you buy all the seals and gaskets you should buy you may as well have bought the whole head gasket set. Oh yeah - new head bolts too, your best bet is to employ the services of a mate who has done one before to help you along the way, or follow the instructions in a good workshop manual like the bentley. Kerry's motor should slot in but its a 2.0L so you'll notice a big drop in power over the 2.5L.

Never trust reliable sources - damn!

Herald Article I was in Russell working yesterday. Have a mate with a police scanner keeping me informed by txt. 2x helicopters + plane buzzing overhead all day. Couple of local detectives I know searching cars getting on the Opua ferry as I was heading back at the end of the day. They told me they thought they had him cornered, but the countryside is so rugged he may have slipped out hence the checks - both carrying side-arms. Exciting... hope they get the f**ker. Sick bastard.

Considering your funds (uni student) this is what you should do: Remove the head and send it awa y for crack testing and check for warping. If it's OK, then you get it honed and buy a head gasket set, replace the gaskets and coil packs go on your merry way. KLater on if the rings etc need doing, you may have the money to rebuild or you may even be ready to upgrade vehicles before then. If you have a cracked head, buy a secondhand head witha crack/warp-free guarantee and proceed as above. Rebuild etc should be your last option unless you have the money and want to do it for "fun". Just because the engine has done high kms doesnt mean it needs a rebuild. If you aren't burning oil, then don't worry.

Or perhaps the other way around. Tri spokes still pwn even tho those look good. I'm still reeling at the thought that the only other 3 letter plater spelling sick is also on the same series crx. How? Why?

...

Don't bother re-gassing. Check out new prices from any gas strut seller as if they are not too ridiculous from secondhand they are a better bet as secondhand may not last - its a gamble.

Hah - I have better rubber now gus - understeer no longer a factor. The paint looks blacker in the photos than in reality - it is charcoal under some lighting conditions and black in others. Good ol' Diamanshwartz! Blacker than when I bought it thanks to Scratch-X plus Meguiars 3-step. Full of stone chips though - dammit. Shelley - the tyres are Dunlop SP 9000 DSST (runflats) They were on the wheels when I bought them - they're about $500+ each new which is why I really shouldn't abuse them the way I do, but meh. I love the grip, but I absolutely hate the ride - If I got them again I wouldn't get the DSST runflat versions as the ride is uber-harsh with a stiff suspension setup - interior squeeks and rattles, I feel every minor pit in the road, CD player that never used to skip skips etc. Turn-in is great (stiff sidewall on a 45 profile = the win), but tramlining is evident although not that bad. Shadowlining was done very carefully with a roll of satin black electrical tape, some patience, a good eye and a sharp (very sharp) craft knife. I don't expect it to last very long and intend on geting that vinyl off shelley, but in the meantime it works and unless you look very closely you can't tell. Thanks for the positive comments - there's more mods to come as time and $ permits. Watch this space.

Black front and side repeaters to match Tails done - thanks Ollie! Shadowline done. Looks tits. Enjoy. Edit: Pics removed due to bandwith contstraints. They're old anyway... And for those who skipped straight down to here, I have sussed my camera now and so have replaced the horrible blurry side view in the first post with a new, clear, shadowlined and reapeater-tinted one.

The problem is intermittent in that every so often the brakes will release fully and problem goes away - for a few knms anyway. I didn't have time to pull the calipers off and check for a stiff/seized piston when I had the wheel off. I think Emma is having someone look at it this avo. Pads are about 70% worn. Rotors could do with a skim, but not absolutely necessary yet. is a '95 316Ti with unvented rotors and drums on the rear. About 140kms.

Thanks Shelley - I'll confirm with you shortly. I have done it using a temporary measure in the meantime and wan to see how I like it. Pics tomorrow. Are you making the mega meet? I could grab it off you then otherwise suss coureir instead. Cheers

Amp the fronts and forget the sub or buy another amp.

Secondhand shocks out of a msport are worth maybe $300 OR 400 for a full set max. I'm still sure they aren't any shorter.