bravo

In due time - currently in my shed in bits while I install sounds, suspension etc. Needs a manual conversion and am on the lookout for a getrag 260 conv. if anyone hs one. Have purchased rims (naths) but on the lookout for mtech-II kit upon which it will be getting a respray. It's a 4-door with leather interior and sunroof, cruise control etc etc. Plan to bring it up to same or better spec than the 320 and then drive it till the m20 gets tired then do a repower. (depending on funds and timeframe either m50/s50 or m20 turbs) but that's at least 2 years away.

Well seeing as it's mine - whatever I take for it Edit: I'm looking for more than the usual $4k-4500 that you pay for a tired 200000km 320. So I'mnot bothering to advertise it on here as you lot are after a steal - not what I think the market will take. If anyone is serious I'm sure they look at trademe and will give me a call. Many of you know this car. It is now back on stock springs/shocks and I have pulled out my smoked tails and sounds. Otherwise it's more or less as you remember. If a bimmersport member comes and has a look at the car, I will be a bit more relaxed in my negotiating.

It certainly does

If yo want lower springs and captivity is a problem then you need to also purchase shortened shocks so as to limit the suspension travel. Lopping off a coil (DON'T!!!!) or compressing the spring (generally not recommended) will give the same problems regarding captivity as shorter springs.

Hey Dwayne - Graham here. Mint another Northland member - see I told you all we would take over... Anywho - see you bought a beamer afterall 16" rims seem to be the ideal - you need to get 4x100 around 30 offset. If you do a manual conversion yourself you are looking at $1500 or thereabouts for all the parts (that's doing it properly with things like new clutch and slave master cylinders etc). The king springs you saw on my 325 when you came out to my shed are now available if you want. I have put the low ones from the blue 320 in the 325 and the 320 is back at stock height. The button on the console to the left of the gearshift disables the rear window switches. The dial below the light switch with hydraulic lines behind it is to adjust the angle of the headlights for when you are towing or have a sh*t load of gear in your boot. From what I've been told, they almost never work. I have it in my 325 and it doesn't work either. The spot light switch is next to the headlight knob - should be two square switches - one for the front spots and one for the rears. Should have bought my car - same year, same model, same km's but already on springs and manual. Silly boy.

From memory when I did mine there are two different sizes available. get one - if it doesn't fit swap it for the other. Euro-Italian car parts got it right first time for me.

They are the same - mine fit perfectly.

Gary - it is an e36 motor isn't it? Did you remember to get the e34 oil pan etc? (there's a couple of other e34 bits you need) Sam - not sure I follow - e36 mounts shouldn't foul e36 dipstick? But without it in front of me I'm not sure what the solution is. I like the mpower rocker cover - but it is in the same vein as a m badge etc.

Correct but the number of members cars with Ollies tint on them all pass every six months all over the upper north island so it seems it is not really an issue so far.

My thoughts exactly

buy my new one then sell your old one. :thumb:

That sux. Shame about not getting pics of the cops car. Shame - if average joe had done it they'd of got careless use and a fine or loss of license - bet the cop just gets a lecture from the boss.

Sorry Conrad - that comment was aimed at our new member - not you. Your reputation preceeds you. :bowdown: My PS was just a dig at Sam - tongue firmly in cheek.

Yes but presumably they knew about it. Ther ewill be a quote in your policy requiring disclosure of "anything that may afect the risk of this policy" i've heard stories of refusal to payout due to radar detectors being in vehicles during an accident. Raar detectors imply that you speed - speeding increases the insurers risk - they refuse to payout. Just what I've heard. As with most things to do with insurance - as long as the insurance company knows about it, you are ok.

You only need to start one thread! Anyway - I don't know, but I'd like to know as I'd like a new top for an e30 baur cabriolet. A trademe vendor with an e21 baur got his done for $1400 in Wanganui and is happy with it. Who in Auckland does a good job?

Yeah, last time we let him out in the streets he ended up in Woman's Day!

Sorry if I made some assumptions, but someone who is still in school will generally have limited driving experience. So I apologise if you have extensive track and high-speed driving experience. Even so, you shouldn't be bringing that kind of driving onto public roads where none of the safety measures found on the track are in place and where other road users have no choice about being on the same road as you at those speeds. As far as my own driving ability goes, theres heaps of room for improvement - I don't deny that or claim otherwise. I also try to keep a handle on my speed and drive within my abilities. That said people sometimes do make mistakes and I've made my share. Try to do the impossible and learn from my experience instead of doing it the hard way yourself. Finally - check your insurance. Many policies are considered void if you have an undeclared radar dectector, and most will be void if you have a jammer. So when that idiot runs a red light and t-bones you, you better be out of your car fast and unbolt the jammer before your car is towed and the insurance assessor gets a look. The point is is that there are few members on here with enough high-speed experience to say they are safe at 120+ unequivocally, so don't tear a strip off me if I tell you you're better off spending the money on training. That goes for nearly everyone on the forum including me. Buy a jammer if you want - and feel free to discuss the merits of them etc - that is what a public forum is about, but when someone gives you some friendly advice, be gracious and thank them - don't act like a tool - it just proves my point. P.S. Sam - you are certainly not qualified to judge driving ability from what I hear.

Mean - my ride made it on there :mosh:

You can't remove it, but you can have it painted. Needs to be prepped properly and proper primer used, but will work - will look better in my opinion. Make sure you doo the bumpers too though.

Sounds pretty good - but I'm comparing them to what I pay up here and Nthld tyres cost about 15% more than AKld tyres RRP.

Me too. Also true. They are excellent and I now find hopping into standard manual e30's without a short-shift tiresome. Do it - great value for $$$ mod.

For now...Bro, if you spent the money for a radar jammer on driver training, you'd be better off - at least when you speed you'll be less of a tool and might not kill someone.

3-4 g will get you a m52 2.8 and gearbox will feck-all left over to put it in. A m50b25 and box is 2g plus. (I know - I've been shopping for one for less than 2g forever and gotten nowhere). I know it's easy for your mates to look at your car and go "it's slow - Put a rotor in it!" and then you look at the cost of a motor and think "easy" The engine swap will cost 2 or 3 times the cost of the motor or more. A BMW engine swap can be done for around the same cost as the motor plus a wee bit - and that is doing some of the work yourself. I'm no purist so I think a rotor'd e36 would be cool as something different, but trust me - you are better of selling the 318 and buying something with your extra cash that is quicker or keeping the 318 and just tastefully modding it. At least until you are working and can afford to do what you want - and insure it when it's done.

It is.Apology accepted this time...

What sort of damage to the motor? Pics of rims?