bravo

Toothy grin

Left armpit

Bum bum

Have a mini for sale. 1982 City 1000cc 4spd manual 170,000kms The old motor got tired, so 2000kms ago we put in a secondhand motor in good condition which has been fully serviced etc - NOT A REBUILD. Clutch, gearbox etc all been serviced and in good condition. Paint is a bit tatty - stone chips and crazy crack on bonnet, but OK - NO RUST. Interior is average to good condition for a vehicle of this age. No rips or tears - some cracking in vynl on sides of seats. Cassete radio Racing stripes are a year old - roof was painted white at the same time. DOES NOT COME WITH PLATE $3000ono Serious offers only.

Sam's tailights only show half the picture in the "which tail lights" thread and now my 4x4 pic won't upload properly either. Temporary problem with a quick fix or something trickier????

Old thread - new pics. We re-restored the jeep - painted inside and out and underneath - rebuilt 'box and clutch, new back seal on the engine, engine steam cleaned and painted, Roll bars, front seatbelts, fire extinguishers. Winch to come. Before

I have a patch of discoloured paint on the 325. It is still a gloss finish - it hasn't gone rough. Copious amounts of Meguiars Paint Cleaner and a pneumatic buffer for about 4 or 5 hours has reduced the discoloured area by half and restored the orginal colour but I don't really feel like another 4-5 hours. Any magic products out there that will not wreck my paint??? Cheers

You're on the money regarding tints making the window break sensor fail to go off. At one stage there a company marketing a tint-like prodct that was supposed to deter theives as it was made the window harder to break (absorbed impact) and the window stayed in place even after it did break held together by the rather robust film. All thieves had to do was whack the window a bit harder or use a heavier object, then take a stanley knife and cut a neat hole in the film and remove the window in one piece - easier than without the film as less noise and no mess.

another vote for tech II

I have a pioneer w306c SVC 12" sub in a custom ported box for sale. It is less than a year old and has only had careful use as part of a "beginners" SQL (Sound Quality) setup. It has now surpassed its usefulness as I want something a bit better/bit more expensive. The box is custom made ported design optimum for this sub in black carpet. It has been properly braced and made out of 18mm MDF with a double layer on the front - i.e. it is very very strong - I could use it as a jack stand and I'd feel perfectly safe under the car. It fits perfectly in an e30 boot as it was built for this with the angle on the box precisely matching the angle of the boot/rearseat. You will have to remove the spare and trim the bolt holding the spare in place a wee bit to get it in, but once in you can put the spare back and the bolt will still be long enough to bolt the spare down. $200 plus postage. I can deliver to auckland if you are patient enough to wait 2 or 3 weeks till I'm next down. Will bring to the Auckland meet if sold to a bimemrsporter by then. Specs: 1000W max (400WRMS) Sensitivity 89db

you can buy sanding and buffing attachments for a dremmel or powerdrill.

I plan to - when I take him my starter to look at for you Y I'm sure we can suss some sort of deal regarding the tank once I get it out.

My latest acquisition has the long range fuel tank comon on the South African 325's. Problem - I don't need that kind of volume fuel tank, and it is right in the way of where I would like to mount a couple of amps. The factory boot lining would fit perfectly over them too as it is shaped to go around the tank. Is it possible to remove then long range tank from the boot and easily seal off the feed from it to essentially revert to a standard setup? Presumably my fuel guage would be affected??? I would just rip it out and see, but thought maybe someone had some experience they could lend me.

If you just want to restore the original finish use some good quality car polish. If they are painted alloy and you want to make it polished you will have to fine sand the paint back, then polish the baremetal use an emery cloth then a buffing disc on a dremmel or similar then to avoid oxidisation you'll have to get it clear coated.

Will - I still have a spare starter that goes (it is the one that was on the way out that you gave me a replacement for after the Miranda meet) I'll bring it down one day after work if you want a play. Need to scam a favour anyway.

They are torx head. You need female torx sockets in two different sizes (I forget which two though - sorry). Repco has them but not usually in stock - you have to order them. BNT sells tools - maybe they have them in stock but I doubt it.

because you think it makes your cock longer gus, oh and you like your 325 reaming you in your ass everytime something breaks. at least that's why I love e30's

16k plus export costs to aussie and whatever tariffs they have (don't forget they have huge ones compared to nz which is why jap cars are erlatively exp over there) and then live in aussie for 90 days (car would have to prob be registered over there too) then import back into nz - you'd easily double the cost of the car if not more.

$1600 for a set of brand new 15" weaves from BMW. $800-1k for good condition secondhand ones it seems based on how much sets have swapped for recently. Although I know oneperson who got some a lot cheaper so deals are out there..

Had the same prob. Drain hole in firewall was blocked and water wa building up by wiper motor and eventually overflowing into heater system and into passenger compartment. Drain hole is a small rubber tube (rectangular) facing downwards coming out of the firewall above the steering linkage. Check all other drain holes while you are at it - look for them or look in your bentley.

Do a manual conversion. Cost? $1000-2000 if you do it yourself depending on how much you pay for parts and how much worn parts you replace. Read the conversion thread.

If you were good with your hands I'd say fix it. If there is no chassis damage (and that is possible) then $500-600 worth of parts, two or three weekends of stripping and sanding, $400 or so of paint and another day in a weekend putting it back together and you'll be done. Even a chassis straighten could be doable depending on how bad. Go see a panel beater. Front bumper $120 Front Guard $50 Front door - pay to be panel beated or its about $50 for a new one. I got one for $15 the other day - score! Headlights - $50ish Front valance - $60 Motor mounts $100ish new plus rubber mounts $80 Bonnet - dunno - say $50-100 Total panels/parts say $650 You could fix it for less than a grand if you do alot yourself and the chassis is sweet.

I'll assume for the moment you havn't bent the chassis as that should be your first concern. I'd say as soon as you get the motor repositioned properly your problem will go away - it is only 1st and third as everything has moved forward and the shift lever is probably resting against the trans tunnel - vibration would then knock it out of gear. my guess is the tranny is fine, but you need to sort out bent chassis, motor mounts, bent steering or suspension components and prob get a wheel alignment.

I prefer the Lenso kr5's - similar but suit the e30 more. Not a crticism of your rims Gary, but the newer kr5's are pretty badass. When are you starting the swap? Any ideas? Still keen to lend a hand time permitting.

Thanks - that is what I meant Andy - OTHER than the IS the only other twin cam e30 is the m3.