bravo

I like the way YOU move Sam.

Tchnically it is not allowed unless tey are tinted plastic. the rule says you are not allowed to apply a coating or film to your lights be they indicators, tail lights or whatever. However, if they are not stupidly dark and can be clearly seen it seems the testing stations don't worry about it.

Two options - install a headunit aswell as per sakd's advice. (which is what I'd probably do as sound quality would probably be better. OR Buy an amp with "line level" inputs, then you can run wires from the headphone jack in the PC to the amp as line level inputs will accept this (headphone jack on one end, bare wires on the other) then the amp powers sub and speakers from there - easy. Go down to a reputed car audio shop - they'll talk over your system with you for free and give you an idea of cost, then its up to you whether you get them to do it or do it yourself.

f**k your cool - can I be like you?

Mean wheel stand etc - what is the deal here? I see the video, it is cool, but what is the background story behind it?

Cheers - the brakes will be done by then so that'll be the last maintenance woe new engine besides

Could be. Hope not. Any ideas on how to determine other than inspection of the bearings?

Do CV joints or wheel bearings whine?

No, not the fuel pump - Andrew could hear it when I drove up his street so that would be one loud fuel pump. Weird that two different diffs would have the same whine at the same vehicle speed - weird for them both to be worn out in such a way so that they emit the same whine at around the same speed. The diff ratio has changed - for the same driveshaft speed, this equates to about an increase in 5km/h vehicle speed - not enough to say that it can't be the driveshaft as the whine happens at around the same vehicle speed with a 10 or 15km/h margin. I could just leave it as it is as it only happens at that speed range, and not all the time - wait till it gets worse??? I wouldn't mind getting it fixed, but I'm not sure what needs fixing!

Well I don't know what else it could be - diff was changed over Easter and wasn't whining in the car it came out of. Centre hanger bearing was replaced week after gearbox was done as I thought that was the culprit. So it's either the driveshaft vibrating so minutely it causes a whine, or the u-joints, or its something else - but what???? It s at certain speeds in any gear (around 40-50km/hr)

Mine is unblanced - maybe an easier option to balancing is buying a secondhand one that is already balanced. don't need any of the bolts or the flexible coupling as mine is new. Anyone got one they want to get rid of?

What kind of place would have the gear to balance a driveshaft? Mine has needed doing since my manual conversion as I wasn't able to get a whole manual driveshaft so I have the front half from one car and the rear from another. The whine is begininnin to piss me off and I really don't feel like replacing my u-joints and centre hanger bearing prematurely as a result. Alternatively has anyone got a spare manual driveshaft I could buy?

Can't find them sorry. Maybe I was thinking of something else...

Looks liek it needs doing then - bugger. Oh well - back to the workshop. Edit: $150 for all four if I leave them on the car. $90 if I take them off first. booked in for Wednesday after ANZAC.

Just did my first pad change on the F/L. Point # 1: My front calipers are not of the hinging variety - there is a tab on the lower portion that prevents them being tilted up - I had to undo both bolts, tilt down and lift out. otherwise they are exactly the same as this writeup. (BTW my front caliper looks slightly different from Andrews) Point # 2: My Bentley says I should have the rotors machined. Is this recommended? How much will it cost? Is it really necessary? Cheers

I have some - they are in dubious condition though. i'll have a look tonight - if there are two good ones you can have them for $5 plus postage.

I got mine from Euro Italian in Albany. Was somewhere around $80-100 from memory, but my memory is hazy. Might have been a bit cheaper than that actually. There are two different ones (mounting bracket holes different centres) so measure the centres between your one before you order to avoid getting the wrong one.

Look photochopped. Could be replicated. Not sure if anyone makes it though.

Different sites - not as good as bimmerdiy

No some do, others read the other way (km/L)The 320 gets about 8 km/l or 12 L/100km. Trying a different diff ratio ATM and preliminary results show 10km/L or 10L/100km. (Open road figures)

That sub is great value for money. As far as the rest goes - looks like you have put some efort in - well done, but I'm with sakd - 6x9's = the devil.

Hey Emma - a ferrari? I was thinking more along the lines of Barbies hot pink vert??!! Just next time you need air in your tires give me a call first...

badass I'm a Lotus Elise You believe in maximum performance and minimum baggage. You like to travel light and fast, hit the corners hard, and dance like there's no tomorrow.

Once again blatantly copied from the hallowed halls of r3v, but sticky-worthy in every respect, so here she is: e30 Diff Tech Article

4.45:1 final gear + ample use of gas pedal = $20/100km 95. Coastguard RIB - 500L tank - 2x V6 200HP Petrol Hondas. = $800 fills. That will last around 6 hours at full tit (50-55kts). So that's 300odd nm or 500km for $800. I hate to think what Katana's fuel bill looks like.