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Everything posted by bravo
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hahaha pw3d - love the horn. Better keep those home vids under wraps then... jks
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Pretty much anywhere will stock bits. Shocks - Bilsteins or Konis are used alot by members here for good reason Springs - Kings, or Jamexes popular aswell. usually two common drops - a 30-40mm on lows or 40-55mm on supalows. Mine is on some unkown springs which give 55mm drop - yet to take it in for a WOF to see if its legal - it'll be borderline. Someone told me if they are off-the-shelf for the car height is irrelevant but I suspect they are talking out their ring-hole. www.shox.com offer extremely attractive deals even after shipping is taken into account, but what is the cut-off for GST? don't get stung.
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Not in order to break traction, but on down-shifts if double clutching, or just rev-matching gearshifts, will heel toe so can still be braking whilst matching revs. Plus my Ford courier requires constant throttle blips between gears up and down and double clutching as it is pretty much knackered, misses like a bitch and has worn synchros. Then there's the willy's - they didn't make a gearbox with synchros in a willy's.Left foot braking on twisties fun too, but usually pointless as not pushing anywhere near hard enough to require it on public roads. But good practice for when it is advantageous. But heel-toeing for wheel spins round town = try hard.
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No, and contrary to m3chks beliefs, I wasn't being a pendantic ass. It wasn't a correction, but an information supplement.Yeah - I think porsche call theirs tiptronic too.
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Rockford components don't come up for sale all that often. I'll keep my eyes peeled. Member of NZICEMAG forums?? Post on there - there are a few TM members on there that spend hours trolling TM for deals - they may come accross it if they know they are looking for it.
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Clutch tool at repco or BNT. BNT have a nylon one for around $30. Repco have the same thing for about $60, and I got a powrebuilt steel one which had various sized shafts for the spigot bearing and looked alot more solid for $30 after my discount. I think retail is $55. Gear knob - I just got a generic one from supercheap for around $30. Has three grub screws and rubber inserts. I didn't need a rubber insert, but found the grub screws continually loosen. Will be aopplying some locktite tonight to see if this remedies the situation. Eventually will get something nicer, but looks pretty good in the interim. Also do the knuckle where the shift selector rod attaches to the g/b (if you have sheet metal console) as I didn't and I am unhappy with the amount of side-to-side play in my shift lever when in gear. I have to pull out the driveshaft at some stage in the near future for another little job, so I'll probably replace it then. Good luck!
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manual for six days now and counting w00t! Oh, and tiptronic is for mitsi's. BMW call theirs step-tronic, Alpina, switch-tronic.
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RJ - I see you reading this - [post yours up for a comparison. The e46 is different to both e36's e36's are similar, but lighting makes it hard to make a direct comparison.
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Alloy is regular plain jane slivery grey. Polished alloy is shiny with clear coat (like polished stainless), chrome is the really shiny chrome, and shadwchrome is a darker grey colour with a polished finish.
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My 0.02c because I can :finger: Emma - best call in this thread yet. :bowdown: Damnian - know where you coming from, the dude was a tool and deserved to have his sh*t in the ditch, but would not have done it myself - have to say martyn makes a few good points. sakd - dude wtf?? why you making it personal? GP is the place for that kind of outburst esp. the fagboy rubbish. You always know when someone has lost the argument - they start pulling out obscenities and irrational put-downs instead of debating the facts/points at hand. m3chk - way to go - pretty big calls there - great way to start on the forum! Bravo - shut the f**k up before you get flamed :mosh:
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Yeah I bought the first issue, and expected rubbish. It didn't even meet those expectations - and it doesn't even make good kindling for the fire because of the damn glossy pages.
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Anything distinctive sounds-wise? - i.e. rare sub or amp? To keep an eye out for.
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Looks good - tidy, tidy, tidy! Auto and Cruise control - more suited to Canterbury than Central lol. As to your diff question, Andrew reminded me of the diff spreadsheet on here - I'm about to go and find it. I'll post a link when I do.
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replied to your pm about this, but I think it is 1.3m long. Someone on the r3vlimited conv. thread mentioned it from memory.
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Nice - sleeps 12 would be about 50ft. Sleeps 12 and fishes 12are entirely different things, but sounds like the ticket - man that's cheap!! Must be inflated prices up here due to the marlin fishing maybe...
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Don't worry. Not sure about in the corromandel, but a full day charter here in Paihia is about $250 1/4share - but there are cheaper ones. boat hise is about $250 a day for a boat that can take six people. That's just the boat, no gear, no guide - pissy little runabout. if you've got the reddies, you should be able to find something pretty damn decent for between $100 and $200 a head since you are a big group. 15+ people is a lot for a fishing charter - most boats wouldn't want more than 5-7 (and that would be considered a big crowd although it depends ALOT on the boat) as there is just simply not enough room for everyone to be comfortable.. by decent I mean 40-50ft launch, full facilities, lunch provided, good guide - guaranteed fish. A 40-50ft launch aint cheap to run - think about half a mill at least a year in maintenance, plus MSA survey costs, plus gear and gear maintenance, plus prob about $100 an hour for fuel depending on the boat.
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You bringin the bimmer bro? I'm leaving paihia 26th avo or 27th morning on a roady of my own - first stop auckland to pick up female companions (ratio much better than yours). Convoy? Edit: hmm see you met Gus - he the one taking the photo and wearing the green parachute pants aye? Edit again - damn you for changing the photo!
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lol awesome! Umm - seriously, you guys should could easily make it fun for Taniel if you put the effort in. Usually chicks are bored cos the guys don't pay them any attention or get them invloved. if you do it right it'll be like she has 14 brothers and she'll have heaps of fun.
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I don't think she wants help - I think she just wants to skite without looking like it. Go hard girl - ' on ya!
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Yeah anything non-auto is badass at the moment for me. I was also thinking it may have been a 4.44 or 4.45. Would like to try a few 4.10 3.91 3.64 to get an idea - unfortunately diffs and money are not raining from the trees at the moment. Gavin from Euro Italian thought I might like to try a 3.64, so did Ray Read (Orewa). I might give Ernst at Bav a call as he seems to be relatively clued up. Will be a couple of months before I do a swap anyway - might make it a project for after xmas. Gus - I'll give you a drive at the sth aux meet if you go so you can see what I mean and decide if it is as badass as you reckon. Maybe I'm just too used to the auto - move away from intersection and floor it - hey whats that noise?? Oh rev limiter kicking in - damn, better change gear.
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Recommended diffs please? 'box is the "little" getgrag 240 that come out on most 320's (according to the online etk). Not sure if "sport" or "overdrive" version, but think sport. Forgot to write down number and since it is written inside the bellhousing and not on the case I guess I won't be finding out very soon unless I trash the thing. It's mated to my old auto diff. Problem: gearing is too low - hit the rev limiter in 1st twice already making hasty departures (no wheel spin, but quick), 2nd just too high to regular use instead of 1st, third tops out redline around the 120-125 mark and at around 4000 at 80 I think from memory, and so I swapping 3rd for 4th a little over the ton and 4th is way to high to pull very hard from there (well as hard as I'd like it to anyway). I can quite happily drive around town at 50km in 5th at a bit under 2k rpm and pulling fine. Comparing with my Dad's 323 that can pull 130-140 in 3rd (from memory - going to take it for a spin over the weekend to do more precise comparison). That would be much better. So basically want to have them all slightly higher hence the decision to look at an alternate diff. No numbers anywhere I can see on the current one, but if I were to pick one up, what ratio would I be looking for? 3000-3500rpm in third at 80 would be good.