bravo

bloody hell :banghead: Aparently all you need to insal is a screwdriver and scissors! (or wire cutters) FFS...

buy a honda? Cowleys Hire has trailers - i think thy're in east tamaki. Gd luck whatever u end up doing.

I'm really loving the de-spoilered pre f/l - not many around like the f/l's. It makes the car look meaner somehow. Nice :mosh:

Don't cut your car. You can make all sorts of things fit if you have the skill time and patience to fabricate some mounts. 5.25's are standard, but you'll have trouble finding good well priced speakers at that size (i.e. limited options) I'd go for 6" and make them fit. Don't get 6x9's they sound crap unamped and even worse amped. Throw some 6" coaxials in the back if you have to, buy a small amp and amp your front speakers - get good ones. You'll thank me later. There are a few threads on audio setup on here if you search - there is a reason they all say the same thing - its tried andtested.

Welcome. Nice to see a new person who actually bothers to read the rules before posting some dumb sh*t - top marks bro. Nice car - love the colour. That'll be Sam aka Cilk Wurm. P.S. that pod filter looks hoary - make a proper cold-air intake box for it. It'll look way better and you'll gain 1 or 2 horsepower.

Some must use an electronic switch to activate the kickdown. Mine had the "switch" but it was simply an adjustable spring loaded button that worked by resisting the full depression of the accelerator pedal. When pressed harder, the button depresses allowing a touch more accelerator - this is connected to the throttle control cable on the auto. When in correct adjustment, this last little bit of pull on that cable acticated the "kickdown" provided this wouldn't cause the engine to go over redline. Yours appears to be electronically controlled if it has a wire as opposed to my mechanical one.

Not necessarily, but rust damage may have occured. Check radiator,coolant lines and water pump. flush, refill, and pray.

not good, but if its just rusty hope your radiator is sweet and get it flushed properly and refill. it should be bright green from the antifreeze that should be in tere.

Tappet noise could also be a worn cam. The noise may also be injectors not tappets. I haven't done it in a bimmer, but i replaced the tappets/lifters in my VK and they were $11ea from the dealer, but then you have to remove the head, have it polished, replace gaskets etc, and so on - cost only a few hundred in the end, but was way more than the 100-200 I had budgeted as an inexperienced 17yo at the time. But if they are replaceable on the bimmer in a similar fashion, might be better to do that . But the again could be cam or injectors as said. I wouldn't bother doing it as a special job.

Still no comment from Angus... That's unusual.

Never thought I'd like clear indcators (as opposed to frsted) but they look f**ken tits! nice work. Get some polished wheels with some huge dish - will look better and faster than the chromes, but still shiny and bling.

I live in northland. our phone is a tin can on a string, tv comes by camel and the internet works using smoke signals.

Pioneer w305c. I have the newer one w306c. Really good value subs. Not the hardest performers but good for the money. They retail fo arounsd $160 and PI has them for around $90. I have the Caliber amp I mentioned 75wrmsx4 powering 90w Infinity splits and the w306c quite well. I am now hungering for a separate sub amp as prolonged exposure to high bass levels on hot days pwns the overheat cut-out, but otherwise its all sweet. $60 for a decent sub box (mines a custom job, ported with 18mm MDF, double layered on front baffle - overkill), $300-500 for decent amp, $200-300 for semi decent front speakers, $60-odd sundries and cabling, plus installation. Do it yourself and you'll spend around $900 if you use the sub you have and you have a head unit already. It will sound really good too.

s o o o o o o o r r r r r r y. scmeh - i don't troll the web so relativly sheltered/unexposed. thrills.

Self ownage rocks, especially when its our ever-in-the-media boys in blue. Well done lads!

Give Tame Iti a call. Maybe you could join forces. http://www.nzherald.co.nz/section/story.cf...jectID=10356747

For those of you confused about what Angus said my guess is that it was a bit of creative journalism. My sources tell me the actual quote was "Yeah, I'd hit that sh*t, .... badass ...." :pimp:

My recommendation is get a 4 channel amp of good quality. You can then run your front component speakers off 2 channels, and bridge the other two channels to power the sub. If you put rear speakers in (you don't need them - seriously), run 'em off the headunit. If you have more money later its easy to buy another amp just for the sub, and then either bridge the 4 ch to your fronts or run the rears off it aswell. My guess is that the power rating you've given for your sub (800W) is the peak or PMPO rating. Shops and people who know nothing about car audio use this number because it is bigger than the real or "nominal" power rating (RMS). This number is the important one. When talking about audio or buying an amp etc look at the RMS rating. The peak rating means sh*t. My guess is your sub is around 300-400w RMS. Front speakers will be around 90-100w RMS if you get decent ones. So you need an amp with a MINIMUM of 70w RMS per channel to power these in an acceptable manner. Bigger would be better but more expensive. at 70-odd W per channel you'll find the overload protection cutting in when you listen to really bassy tracks really loud (if you buy a decent amp that has it - if not say bye,bye to your amp if you crank it). I'd recommend: (most stolen off PI website but I'm too lazy to do otherwise) Alpine MRV-F540 $600 approx (very good amp) Clif Designs Clif Designs CD600A $600 approx (also very good) JBL PX300.4 $480 on special (OK - but great value at this price) Rockford Fosgate P4004 $400 approx (slightly less power, but RFs tend to go harder than rated, so good value and a sturdy amp) and then a couple of favourites from the NZicemag whores: Eaudio 480AB dunno how much but prob $500 - this amp kicks ass and if I wasn't such a cheap bastard I'd have one in my car. Caliber CA475+ $400-500 depending on specials. (I have the "little brother" to this amp - same ratings but the cheaper line made by the same manufacturer) These are popular and awesome value for money. Good luck audio hunting! PS - if its way, way cheaper thanthese, its probably crap and will either perform sh*t, die, or sound crap. You get what you pay for within reason.

Lamest comeback on bimmersport ever?

Emma - u rule! :mosh:

There was a poll a while back. greater than 50% e30 from memory.

I second the motion.Decent ampd front spilts, decent amped 12 or maybe 2 12's if u'r an SPL fan, and that'll do donkey, that'll do.

Firewall drain hole blockage will cause front footwells to get wet as water overflows into the ventilation system from near the windscreen wiper motors. Don't know about rear footwells as havn't had this prob.

Are you referring to the fact they are wider (ie sticking out from the body more) hence accentuating the chine of the panel?All e30 m3's are like that - part of the homologation process to accommodate wider rims.

bugger! just glad (oh-so-glad) it wasn't me really. Feel soory for the guy unless he was driving like a tool which is prob the case unfortunately... I'd love to be able to hack thwe auction and swap a few of the pics hehe..