bravo

A. They have way too much time. B. Esp considering they must get absolutely no sleep. Them, or their neighbours OR anyone in that province. :drugs:

Me too - probably something hidden in one of the javascript and css preference files. I haven't found it if it is though. You can also code a page using css not to display certain scrollbars. It's annoying, but I don't know the fix...

Done all them this week - 5 hours on Sunday for number 8. :mosh:

True, true - cast came off last thurs - hand looks a bit like a white deformed alien - well it did, but Northland sun and lots of exercise quickly remedying tht. Anyone makes any jokes about what sort of exercise and I'll bitch slap u! :gay:

It's hereYou runined a good desktop wallpaper Will - I'll have to clone-brush you out!

First shift just below redline, then 5.5-5.7 for most other gears - you get a faster start if you wait to press the accelerator till just on green rather than holding down or pressing early.Edit - pulling 11's on a car that has a 6 grand redline means it prolly turbs - so need to be able to rev between shifts to maintain boost dammit! Wheres the boost guage???

3 goes 11.74 11.19 11.12 Wonder what car its based on - 6 speed with 6 grand redline?

Its great how people think that their opinion is fact. f**ktards.

Those are the only chromes I've ever seen i like. I think it looks the shizz.

That is the gay - at least it seems some photo albums survived. Its the things with sentimental value that matter. I have some photos and some of my grandfathers things - at the end of the day - they are the only things that would upset me.

Don't be greedy - you got pics already although not of interior...Me comment? Never! My lips are sealed... :pimp:

Must say Angus, you're much better looking dressed like that. :mosh: Edit: Even Emma thinks so ^^^^^^^^

Yeah Em, it was Andrew's car I showed you. Get u'r A into G and go drive it. Northland rocks :mosh:

Yeah, knew about the universals. Thanks. Edit - just realised, according to my bentley, the correct orientation is the top pic, wrong in bottom. Unfrtunately I had them as in the bottom as thats what I thought it should be like, so its gotta come off again. hope fully no damage caused over the 1000 or so kms I've done in the meantime. 200km to go and I'm home and can swap it over - man I'm getting good at removing the shaft - still have to undo manifold flange bolts carl, but can leave rest of exhaust attached.

Rear fill is sound from rear speakers that is simply there to "fill" the void of sound that would be there if the speakers weren't. As you are not sitting in that void - only your rear passengers - it is unecessary although some people like it. Each channel on an amp can power one speaker. You don't need to amp your rear speakers as they do not need to be loud - this way you can save money by using a four channel amp to power your front speakers (two channels) and your sub (bridge the other two channels to essentially put twice the power into one speaker). If you used the 4 ch amp to power two front and two rear speakers, you would need to buy an additional 1 or 2 channel amp (with the 2 channels bridged) to power the sub. Since the rear speakers are unimportant, save your money. Spend up large on quality amp, and front speakers, buy an ok/decent sub and throw whatever speakers are on special for undfer $100 in the rear or leave them out altogether.

Hold on - each part of the shaft has its own balance weight - shouldn't cause too much of an issue as each piece is balanced either side of the hanger bearing.

maybe that is part of my prob then - i had trouble putting them back together once - they have a guide spline, but maybe it can go more than one way around. Any ideas on how to figure out which way it should go? Had to pull them apart to replace bearing of course......

phone model? Try the nz distributor (if it's not a rear faceplate, it'll prob be horrendously expensive) Go ghetto and tape that shizz up.

true - must try tht nxt time.

WarNox - sounds good to me - make sure you get a subbox designed for your specific sub. Each sub has different properties, and although it will "work" in any box, a box designed for the specific sub in terms of volume and port length if has one etc makes all the difference. A bad box can ruin a good sub. A good box can make a crap sub sound almost acceptable. My-e36 - yup rear fill should be almost inaudible - can be used carefully to move the soundstage, but most people have their bass and treble, fade and bal settings so screwed up the soundstage is f**ked anyway. Reducing treble can bring bass forward in the car from a boot sub, reducing tweeter gains can lower the stage and remove harshness, increasing bass boost should be used withcare, incorrect high/low pass settings can muddle sounds, and gain settings onan amp should be set correctly too. But for the average person it won't make a blind bit of difference unless it is really wrong, and once you are moving, road noise throws half of it out the window. Enter accoustic insulation..........

Yep - gearbox stays on. I only think its the bearing as that seemed to be where the noise was coming from. The rubber surround cracked when I tried to inspect it when I pulled it off, and the bearing (although quiet) looked pretty sad. It may have even been turning in the surround...' So the new one went on last night. While there I did an oil change, so picking up an oil filter etc tonight, so will test drive tonight to see if the problem is fixed. I ever got any brass shim stock, so just put that lot back on sloppy and all till next time when I'll prob replace the knuckle. piece of cake. Unbolt four flange bolts attaching exhaust to headers (need 14mm socket with extension. universal helps on hard to reach ones), undo two muffler clamps holding rear muffler (13mm socket), un hook exhaust from rubber hangers and remove. Undo 8 exhaust sheild bolts (6x 13mm 2x 10mm) and remove. Undo three guibo bolts (17mm socket 17mm combo spanner to hold nut behind) If you undo the ones on the g/box output flange instead of the driveshaft input flange it'll make your life easier. Undo 4x17mm rear driveshaft flange bolts holding onto the diff. Loosen the large cap between the front and rear driveshaft (use a massive crescent or a stilson works fine) then you can drop the shaft out with a bit of wiggling. Undo 2x 13mm hanger bearing bolts. Undo circlips on shift selector rod and remove. knuckle then comes off by unclipping the tension bush holding it onto the g/b, undoing the sheet metal console by undoing the two 8mm allen bolts will give you more room. Insallation is reverse of removal You will need decent jacks and axle stands - the vehicle jack and some blocks of wood won't cut the mustard.

Spark Plugs, check plug below intake manifold if f/l for corrosion as per Williams advice on anothe thread. Inspect control arm bushes, areas for rust, brakes, driveshaft donut/guibo/flexinle coupling, Center hanger bearing , shift selector bushes/ knuckle, shfter nylon cups, go a shortshift?

I have heatsheilding over the center bearing - so yeah exhaust has to come off. - prob could have squeezed a hand in there and done it without removing exhaust if one hand wasn't in plaster, but it is... Tight - damn right! xmas is upon us and I have high-maintenance friends/family. Greedy little f**kers/bitches.

Looking at using some brass shim to make a bush instead of replacing the knuckle - I still only have one hand - 3 hours to jack the car (c**t of a job with one hand and using bottle jacks - need to buy a trolley jack), remove exhaust and driveshaft etc to replace hanger bearing - will take about the same to refit methinks. :mosh: So I'll try the shim idea, and if that don't work I'll do it all when I replace the diff next year. Damn expensive piece of metal that!!!

Centre driveshaft hanger and bearing has gone. Driveshaft is off, and bearing and hanger is in the mail. Whilst under there I thought I'd try and remove some of my gearshift slop by replacing the front knuckle joint where all the slop seems to come from. My parts guy quoted somewhere around the $90 for that part! The whole driveshaft bearing and hanger are only $110!! Anyone know where I can get one from a bit cheaper? Cheers.