bravo

100mm is as low as you can go without cert. If the jamexs are 35-40mm lower than stock your car will be about 140mm off the ground at the jacking points. Basing this on a 50-55mm drop of mine putting me around 110-115mm off the ground and that is plenty low enough IMO unless you want real difficulties getting in and out of driveways. I already scrape judder bars and some drives without going lower. Parts? Soz Andy broke as a bitch at the moment and the only bits I really want (fogs) I know you want yourself. Give me a yell if you need a hand pulling a car to bits or sanding or whatever your one - I did all the prep work on my bumper and I know how tedious it can be. I have a fornt valance with some minor damage I could prob hook you up with for a few beers or something - might be cheaper to fix than yours and already the right coulour apart from the damaged.area. But no bumper. i paid $180 for my new front valance and I think that was a tiny bit on the steep side, but not unreasonable.

Done! I will look into that wiring topless - at this stage I got it going by splicing the two green/blacks with the green/yellow power for the reversing light as per results from my multimeter sussing out what wires cerated what circuit in various shift positions. After finishing discovered it matched a photo on r3v, so all good till I can be bothered removing it entirely. NZ320 - you putting an auto in??? Yeah we can sort something with my shifter. PM me. Other issues/findings: I never got the bracket that secures the rear of the shift console so I made one out of some angle iron. I also modified an electrical grommet to fit for the master cylinder firewall opening. I scored slave cyl. clutch line of an e21 that was being wrecked on the side of the road. Mounting bracket for the centre driveshaft bearing/vibration dampener was a different size so I swapped them - used the opportunity to service the bearing. There is a little bit of play in the clutch pedal, but it was late when I finished last nite so I'll look into that tonight. There is a little bit of play in the gearshift - I think it is the front shift-rod knuckle joint which I decided didn't need replacing - damn. Oh well future project. The brake lights wouldn't go out - just needed minor pedal adjustment. I think that is all. So a couple of tiny things that need tweaking, but otherwise a very successfull project. Total cost $1850 incl. purchase of a torque wrench, allen-head sockets (for pressure plate bolts and gearbox drain plug), 2x 1/2" drive extensions, 1x 1/2" drive universal, clutch alignment tool (good one - not cheapy), sundries. So actual cost of gearbox and parts not too bad and labour was all free of course - except for the couple of boxes of beer I consumed whilst working. Anyway - reackon I could do it in about 1/3 of the time next time. Most of the time was spent waiting for parts. I accidently pushed the clutch arm retaining clip inside the box after install - took me less time to remove the box, fix it and re-install the box than it did to pull out the auto. Now have a zip-tie through the ends of the clip to stop it happening again :thumb: Anyway - now officially a member of the manual club - feels good.

werd!

I was talking about the axles - The main driveshaft is what bolts to the input flange. The one in the pic has four holes on the flange which is same as e30, but whether they are the same spacing????I wouldn't bother with that one - find one locally.

Well since Andy hasn't been online all day, I guess he's sorting the car out. I only know a little via text msg from Andy, but an old lady ran into him somewhere in Greenlane - looks fixable, but will dent the wallet of course. Other than that you'll have to wait for Andy to get online before you get any more gossip.

As in crashed. Poor Andy! Thats 2 e30's on here this year that I know of.

I don't know if it would fit, but you'd need to check whther the driveshafts to the wheels would fit, the stud pattern of the input flange, and how much work is involved gettiong it noumted if the mounts are different.. i went to have a look at the online ETK, but e24's aren't covered so no help there.

Agreed

There were Getrag 240's on 320's aswell. Presumably with different bellhousings, but if you consult the online ETK - the majority of manual 320 models list the 'box as either the sport or overdrive version of the getrag 240. Prob doesn't help here, but I was previously always under the impression that 240's were only used on the 4 cyl. models.

I quit about two years ago (the last time ) Still give in on the odd drunken evening, but been much better of late - even resisting them aswell.

Link - $800

don't make me slap you.Plus 1000 points for actually getting around to doing it and not just talking about it and doing it myself.

Yeah sounds great Carl - Let me know if you suss it. My clutch kit was in that vicinity of price from Euro Italian. BNT quoted $343 incl. GST. Repco rip the trade off, but if they think you are going to spend some money with them they give you trade. 25% discount is common for me, but I pick and choose what I buy from them. Not everything is made equal. Box is in!!! I sheared one of the heads of the screws holding the pressureplate to the flywheel, so had to pull it all off again and drill it out (used an "easy-out" so I didn't have to re-tap the thread). All back in now. Discovered my clutchline between main steel line and slave cyl. is faulty, so now have to get one of those before I can finish. Z3 shifter conversion done. With the console already out of the car it took about 5-10mins. I didn't melt the shifter like Carl did, I just cut one of the nylon cups. My theory was that nylon cups are a dollar or two and the shifter is over a hundy. I'd rather replace a cup than a shifter if I f**k it up - went sweet and everything sits nicely. Now starter motor is back in, I might play around with the inhibitor loom etc - was a bit hard to test before with the starter motor not earthed properly lol. Should finish it the day the clutch line arrives.

Also could be incorrectly adjusted valves. Common of M20's too - you have identified all of the common causes, now I guess it is a case of elimnating them one by one which by the sounds of things is what you are doing. Infuriating I know!

I'd definately rock that if it was off europlates aswell as I was planning on ordering mine in the next week or two anyway.

That's an extremely tidy e30 - good stuff!!! Excellent choice of sub Digital Designs rock hard! :mosh: - what are you powering that with?

I've owned 311 cars. Is my cock bigger than yours then? As said - already been done this thread...

that was classic. Wasn't she swiss or swedish tho?Anywho - nice car that 5er - from what I hear, you'd want the diesel over the petrol. They go hard.

Christmas again! Z3 shifter arrived today along with other sundries I needed. So now apart from firewall grommet and shift console bracket I am sorted. Those two have been semi-organised to be here by Wednesday hopefully. So after work today I will be finishing things to the point of having the g/b in but not connected to driveshaft and shifter and all interior installed. Haven't entirely sussed the wiring to bypass the in-gear switch. According to the Haynes, I should be able to short two pins on the ECU loom and viola!, but in case I do it wrong, planning to sort it out at the shifter end, but not sure which wires to jumper. There is a brown which appears to be ground for the light for the shift selector. there is power (Green yellow stripe) which goes to the bulb and also to the reverse light switch which then grounds through the blue white stripe wire via the bulbs. Then there are two green and blacks which enter the plug at the same terminal (i.e. they are common) then go to the shift selector. Where do they come from??? Do they work by going to ground? or do I jumper them with another one of the wires? Any help please! Once I have the console bracket and firewall grommet I will install driveshaft and bleed clutch lines and go for a test drive before putting everything else back in. My Tuesdays are booked solid, so expect to be finished Wednesday nite. Been a fairly long project, but mainly due to waiting for parts and figuring it out as I went. Looking forward to driving her again as a manual!

A lot of hassle and waiting for those kind of items. Buy an aftermarket airfilter like a k&n and ust clean it regularly (that may be worth sourcing from overseas), but oil and fuel filters are pretty cheap here anyway. Other items may be worth sourcing from overseas, but you have all sorts of issues to consider like shipping insurance, what to do if things go wrong, warranty issues, not to mention delays. Think about 2 weeks at least before the stuff arrives, then its the wrong stuff, so you return it. It gets there 2 weeks later and they send the correct parts. thats six weeks!!! I wouldn't bother for anything other than specialty items or something that I don't mind waiting a couple of months for. i've bought things from the UK and Asia with good experiences, but if I can get it locally within 20% of the price, then its worth the extra to save on hassle. Not to mention you are then supporting the local economy.

Keen on E30. There was a place in Dunedin years ago that specialised in Manuals. Was called Hillside Book Exchange but changed names now. It was on King Edward St, just around the corner from Pak 'n' Save heading from the rear Pak 'n' Save entrance towards the motorway overbridge/Hillside road. They may do a good deal, esp. if someone goes in there with student ID (Ali???).

Haha Nathan - I told you you'd come back! but bronzit!!!! WTF You're a worry bro.

I hate how nath thinks that 20 vs. 16 is cradle snatching. 4 years aint no age gap. I hate how the courier depot up here is unmanned in the weekends so I have to wait till Monday to get the rest of my clutch parts which means no progress over the weekend. I hate spring weather - hot 'n' sunny one minute pissing down blowing a gale the next.

Clutchstop was there under the carpet I just didn't use my eyes. Accerlator stop helps stop the cable stretching everytime you hit max throttle. I just removed the spring from the auto one and adjusted it so there is no "kickdown" Gives that nice steel against steel sound when you pound the pedal, so sorted there too. So just the grommet and bracket please. I don't want to bleed my clutch line twice so I'd really love to find that grommet before I attach the clutch line to the master cyl.

Once it is in the car you'd have to remove the exhaust and driveshaft to get to it, so easier when out. I replaced the bushes that hold the sheetmetal console to the box, but all the others looked/felt fine so I didn't bother. Edit: that said, you could prob do the one topless is asking about through the hole in the trans tunnel that the gearshift pokes through - would be a fiddly job tho.