bravo

This car is for sale on TM, but that aside, I think the idea of smaking the tails but leaving the reversing ligts unsmoked looks cool - would work equally well on a black or white car. Just posting it up for those of you looking to do something different.

Quote from a site selling a flush machine - so obviously my "system" won't dissolve varnish etc buil up, so maybe every so often I should take it in for a flush. "From the first mile a vehicle is driven, heat within the engine begins breaking down the oil. The chemical reaction that occurs creates varnish, then varnish and other contaminants mix with condensation in the engine to form sludge. It's not long before the passages that carry the vital engine oil are restricted. As varnish and sludge build up, friction increases. Timing is affected. Power is lost and fuel economy deteriorates. Even worse, the contamination begins to clog the oil pick-up screen - a major cause of engine failure. The OSS process removes the varnish, carbon, and sludge deposits that regular oil changes can't touch. The unique OSS cleaner actually dissolves the molecular bond between contaminants and the internal engine parts. Dynamic Process - OSS chemical is added with oil while the engine is running, so pressure forces the cleaner into every oil passage and return galley. The unit's positive suction action circulates the oil through the unit, removing loosened solids without clogging the screen or damaging seals. Back Flushes - When the cycle is complete, the engine is turned off and the OSS unit reverses the flow to be sure no blockage occurs. The cleaning solution with suspended contamination is purged from the engine, making it simple to install a new filter and add fresh oil. Fast - The process takes about half an hour and is self-contained. A powered discharge transfers waste oil to a storage container quickly and cleanly. Dispose of the waste following standard oil waste procedure"

The only "proper" way to do a flush is with a machine that pumps a flush mixture through and collects the dirty crap and filters then recycles the fluid. It has a reservoir to replace lost fluid during the process and they run it until it flushes clear - same as a coolant flush machine. My guess is that is what BMW use - but obviously if you don't have one then you need to think of other options. Personally I never flush, but I change oils as soon as it starts to go properly black which takes some time due to the fact that my car runs pretty clean and I change the oil so often. My oil remains gold for several weeks after a change and then discolours slowly over then next couple of months till the next change (about six monthly).

Know what you mean. I drive ALOT, so usually about 2 weeks and I can feel "as one" and start to unconscuiously predict it's behaviour.

I'm a chrome-hater, BUT!!!!!!! you just owned this thread -way to put eople in their place without coming off like a retard. If you want chrome bro, go the chromes and don't let no-one f**k with that.

As the pic loaded on my slow-ass dial-up I thought - hey cool - silver round temp controls, but the centre console/gearstick surround - slightly outside my realm of taste is a nice way to put it. Otherwise looks alot like my car with a few rocks in the boot. Reminds me how much I need to shadowline it. But - not putting your car down Phat - still looks good and I hope your happy with it. I know I'm happy with mine - b-caps and all.

Feeler Guage? Where ever you get your other automotive tools from. They come in various sizes, either individually or more commonly as a set. make sure whatever you buy has a 0.8mm gauge. You slide the guage between the gap and it should just touch both terminals if not, use a tool to bend the arm up or down as appropriate. There are notched tools for this purpose - often a glass cutter has an appropriate sized notch. on the handle.

I'd give that a miss actually. Well, wouldn't put in any effort chasing - put it that way.

I didn't notice any difference in the way the car performed except it helped my hesitation problem and cured the hard starting problem (although in conjunction with an injector flush). So I wouldn't vouch on extra power - but as far as economy goes - open road driving - you may as well use the better fuel if you want. I won't be as my understanding is that chopping and changing fuel is not a good idea, but I will run a tank of 98 through every so often for a clean out considering the improvement from my first try at it.

Haynes says to use Champion (maybe they were sponsored). mine are NGK. Check the gap before you put them in - should be 0.8mm. (use a feeler guage) My car is missing a bit from idle at the mo, but not the plugs. Engine ran fine when they were new and pulled them out day before yesterday and were in good nick, so its something else - so go the NGK's.

O rjust pay to have some colourmatching done - that way any fading etc won't be noticed.

Yeah caught that the other day - and she wants $10k from memory - the bid is just at $2k. I would rather buy the e36 that I wanted and use my mojo to get the pic tho!

Havn't done the calcs on the 320, but we did on the 323. On 96 vs 98 - the extra kms driven almost exactly matched the extra money paid. 98 was just as cheap as 96 in other words because same route, same time of day, same traffic, same driving style = less fuel consumed using 98 and after working it out, there was less than a percent difference on the cost per km (sorry can't remember the exact figures) It was 98% open road driving. Not 100% scientific, but I'm convinced.

The only thing i can think of that might be it is the fuel pressure regulator - but if one of the hoses goes nowhere you got no fuel! and it should be on the front of the intake manifold. Otherwise take a pic cos I'm lost.

beetee - just make sure you short the correct wires for your model. I'm about to go and put some new plugs in my e30 as soon as I'm finished here - I'll have a look for the vacuum valve you mention.

Graham e30 and am currently trying to add another e30 or possibly an e34 to the garage.

If you've never heard of Foamy the squirrell, you need to check this sh*t out! I found it in the weekend and it's hilarious. I'd start here or here and then hit the episode list. Had me in stitches. Oh and Squirrel songs

pics please...

I warmed the engine by driving to BP, threw in a bottle of injector cleaner and a tank of 98/Ultimate and did the whole rev thing/badass drive - lots of hills and twisties - no breaking the speed limit, but lots of 6000rpm and a little bit of breaking traction. :mosh: A bit better - but not fixed. Will pull the plugs this weekend (they were new when it went into storage so maybe they just need a clean), and if its still not fixed I'll take it in. Mild improvement with ulitmate, and gas mileage improved marginally, only put it in since it's cleaner, and with the slight octtane reduction from injector cleaner prob evened out. Back to 96 once this tanks empty.

Yeah, i'm driving it to aux this avo (2.5hrs or less if I drive "badass" but since I don't want to bend it in the wet prob more like 3hrs) Hope that might fix it - I've only done about 3.5hrs in it since took out of storage and not all at once. Will be holding off tutu-ing with it till I get back but not all that hopeful of it fixing itself...

My mechanic is booked up 2.5 weeks solid and there is no way I'm going somewhere else as the guy is a genius. But, the e30 has started to hesitate off the mark - it misses a touch before she kicks in and goes. It has been parked up with little to no driving for some time and I have just started using her again. Also starting is a little more hit and miss - used to start perfect every time, now sometimes is a touch hard to start. I have recently replaced the fuel filter and given it an oil change but otherwise nothing is different apart from the period of no use. That and the tappets are louder than I remember. Tappets are no worry, and it's probably just in need of a tune, but any bright ideas that I could try myself. I have a haynes manual, I have an extensive workshop and tools and I am very handy with them, but haven't owned the e30 long enough to have cracked into the engine and so am flying blind. Just want to know where to start as I'm sure someone must have been here before. Cheers.

Alright you two - I'll bow out gracefully.... It's all a matter of opinion capiche?

Agreed. Do it once - Get it right. Generally sealed gives a slightly better response, but ported gives beter dB for identical subs. Sealed is also smaller than ported so if you are tight on space then you may need to consider sealed. If not, I recommend properly tuned ported.But then there are other designs like bandpass and ABC boxes, but I have yet to try my hand at one till my woodworking skillz improve.

Personal opinion, but I think that it has certain merit. You obviously don't agree and thats cool too.

Thanks and Welcome!