JaseNZ

Will have a better look around and see what i can come up with

Just a query on that as i wanted to go around and do all my outer door handles and the rubber protector that is behind then. Ray mentioned they were around the $13 dollar mark so i thought ok that's not to bad. Anyway i go into Jeff Grey and ask about them and they say yup $10 exclusive of gst. So i order 4 and think nice will be good to get these done. The following day i receive a call from their parts department, Apparently i cannot just get the rubber membrane but also have to cough up for the other plastic door shell as well, Total cost $50 each. Has anybody else done these rubber inserts without having to buy the outer door handle cover as well. I mean for Christ sake they are two separate items.

Did anybody just catch the news on the flooding down south, That idiot in the nice beemer driving through the flood water until his car went nose down into a hole. The them pulling it back out and the doors being opened and all the dirty water flooding out. What the hell was he thinking.

Cheers mate will give you a call tomorrow to sort out the door handle piece

Is that for the door handle piece or 4 rubber surrounds for the handles ??

The other day i went to open my rear left door and heard a clink sound and found the door handle opening and closing ok but doing nothing. (outside door handle). Today i got around to finding out, Taking off the inner door panel and taking out the door handle i found the cause. I have put a pic of the offending piece i need. Not sure if this is a common fault or not ut anyway i need a new piece. I would prefer not to to have to get the whole door unit handle just this piece and the piece it was connected to would be great. Anybody that has had this problem and knows what the piece is in the pic will know what i mean. Also was thinking of maybe doing all the outer door handle surrounds (rubber ones) What sort of price would i be looking at.

Sold thanks guys.

I got this one from trade me and am selling at the same price i bought it for. I did see one the other day but it was missing the proper connections i think. It Did not have the 20 pin connection i think it only has the 16 pin one which limits things a huge amount.

Sure did as i mentioned at the begining of the post. Its not that there is anything wrong with it in fact it works brilliantly , But as a result of a few things all happening at the same time i need $$$, Fact of life i guess in these times, Rego is due and car has to go in for its service to keep the warrenty valid, These and a few other things are forcing me to sell some of my toys.

I only got this about 3 weeks ago but now i need to part with it. Due to more bills going out than cash flow comming in i am going to have to part with it. Thought i would give the heads up here first just incase somebody wanted in first before i put it on trade me this weekend. Price is $240 (thats what i payed for it) will ship for free anywhere in nz. Ever thought to yourself what if my car could just tell me what's wrong !! well here it is !! access your car's diagnostics circuitry via this kit using your PC to find out what's wrong and make repairs easier/faster !! can access !!ALL!! petrol and diesel engines 1988 - 2004. can read most modules and reset error codes ranging from brake and traction control, ABS, gearbox faults, engine faults to body electronics on the car !! reset oil service light, perform live data diagnostics (rpm, intake air temp, injection timing, gearbox performance etc) and more!! all readouts are in ENGLISH A MUST HAVE FOR BMW OWNERS, PAYS FOR IT SELF, NOT NEEDING TO GO TO THE GARAGE TO HAVE A SINGLE DIAGNOSTIC DONE ON A SIMPLE PROBLEM!! WHICH COST ME $40 FOR MECHANIC TO SAY YOU NEED TO CHANGE A SENSOR!! Or diagnose a bmw before you buy it on the spot!! reduce the chances of buying a dunga of a car that is going to cost you more to repair. includes: -- diagnostic Interface -- Serial cable RS232 -- 16pin OBD2 connection cable -- 20pin BMW connection cable -- Software CD will install in XP, not sure about vista. NOTE: - you must have a rs232 serial port on your laptop/desktop you install this on. desktops have the plug at the back, but most new laptops now DON'T. - you can buy a rs232 to PCMCIA adaptor for the laptop if you need to. Or i can suppy a new one for $35 - A GOOD RS232 serial port - USB converter works but not all works so be cautious. E30 / E31 / E32 / E34 / E36 / E38 / E39 / E46 / E53 / E60 / E63 / E65 / E66 /Z3 / Z4 / Z8 / X5 / X3 1988 - 2004 obd1 and obd2 bmws

I follow the superbike (sbk) racing and they have one in there, Currently finishing constantly in the top 10

Got it back yesterday and it seems to be starting just like normal so who knows what it may have been will just have to monitor it. At least it came back all shiny and clean must admit they do a good job of there detailing and waxing. Expensive clean though at $360 ($75 for towage and $240 for labour on trying to find the problem and top it off with $30 for use of the bmw diagnostic equipment). Was hoping they would find something wrong so insurance would have covered it.

Nope my baby is always parked in a closed garage and weather had been fine.Will see what happens today and update this post tonight

Battery was replaced by me when i got the car ( I always do that) so its only 7 months old and is the correct one for the car. Yup bit of a strange one, They said there are no fault codes at all and that all live data looks like what it should be. Maybe it was just one of those i don't feel like running moments. Will be intresting to see if it starts ok for them this morning, Starting for it has never been a problem, one turn of the key and its an instant start it never turns over and over before starting or anything like that. What update to the engine managment would they have done, Does it give me like a thousand more horses

Glenn i got a call from our BMW service agent today saying they cannot find anything wrong with my car. They have checked all fuel line's and pressures and everything checks out ok, They have also updated the engine control software. (what would be in the update ??) They are going to do a final cold start test on it tomorrow morning and if it starts ok then i get it back and monitor it i guess. I dunno this has me a little stumped, Could you think of anything else it may have been why one minute its running fine and then 6 hours later i get in and its a no go. Insurance company is not going to cover it either as nothing wrong can be found and its been classed as car was flooded.

Hmmmmm in a strange update, The car was picked up this morning and taken to Geoff Grey BMW. I just got a phone call from them to inform me that they cannot find anything wrong with it. They reckon it was just flooded. So it sat flooded from 7.30am to 3pm when they first managed to get to look at it. Did not know a car could have stayed flooded for this long. Am i missing something here, Could this of happened ?? They are leaving the plugs out over night and see what happens when they try and start it in the morning.

Yup thanks for that info Glenn will be giving them a ring first thing in the morning and getting the tow service to come around and give it a ride to the dealers. Bit of luck they will put a new (well heres hoping) starter in, then it will last me. Are they that hard to get at you need special tools, Hell gone are the days where i used to lift the bonnet and 5 mins later would have one changed over lol.

Just did a real good search around the net and every article and post says the inlet manafold has to come off with all its bits and pieces, They also mention you must have the right tools as they have torx head bolts of a certain size. Anyway looks like to big of a job for me to do, If after putting the battery back in after a good charge then by morning i will be ringing my insurance company to get it sorted out.

Cheers for the reply, I was at work but have now come home cause i was to wound up about this. I have taken the battery out and thrown it on the charger just in case and was going to take the starter out to give it a clean up, But where do i start i can't even find the bloody thing. A quick search on the net is showing people taking the inlet manifold off to get at it, Hell i don't want to start doing anything like that. Is it on the right hand side somewhere standing at the bonnet looking down. Looking at the Haynes manual its got removal of the inlet manifold and various wiring harness's etc. Bugger that i gave up doing all those sorts of things years ago. (well that much involved anyway). I took out the mechanical insurance on the car when i got it for things just like this i would have thought. I may have a $200 excess but to get the car taken to the dealers and the cost of parts and labor i would say would be far greater than my excess. So unless its a real easy fix on my part then for me it makes sense to use my insurance after all its what it is there for.

Tonight i jump in my car to go to work and flicked the key around but i was a bit hasty and it was just a flick. The car turned over a couple of times but did not start because i released the key to quick. Turning the key again all i am getting now is the starter motor wirrrrrring. I don't think its a power problem as it went to start fine the first time. Its also not just clicking so again i think that rules out the battery. Could the ring gear be gone ???. What else could this be, Are there any tricks i could try before i go ringing up the insurance company for them to come pick the car up to take it off for repair. I don't want to be climbing around under the car or anything like that taking starter motors off as thats what i have the auto insurance for. Some advice on what this may be would be very helpful.

One of the most costly garage door openers to use in the world that and mine keeps breaking down and 95% of the time it does not work at all.

Anybody know how i would tell if my car does have this feature ??.

Thanks for all the info guys. Why would my key have the buttons though for remote central locking and even a light that lights up on the key when pressed if it does nothing.

I am just wondering if anybody knows about the e36 (see my car info) EWS Immobilize system, According to the scan i did on my car it says this modules responded ok and there were no error's. This leads me to my first question, Is this an alarm system ?? or is it something else. My key has the remote locking buttons on it and a light that lights up if the buttons are pushed and upon looking all the electronic stuff inside it. But my mirror has no clown nose on it or anything. This just has me confused.

Sorry to hear that, There is alot of it going around at the moment, Damn recession. I got mine from trade me, I ended up paying $240 because i was a dumb *uck and did not use the buy now of $220, Some may say its a steep price to pay but compared to the orginal Carsoft version its alot cheaper. And anyway it was my birthday prezzie to myself (well birthday is next month i just wanted one )